hamburg

we flew into hamburg late last night ex gatwick

bypassed public transport options and took a late model merc

the driver efficiently getting us to the mercure hamburg stadium

welcomed by a quite jovial german chap on late night reception duties

tells us we have been upgraded so happy to settle into our large room

this morning we are up and at it and determined to cram as much as we can

there's a compulsory afternoon appointment with a large boat in another town

a few questions and we are informed a train trip into town and back is possible

so a 10 minute walk to the metro through presumably a typical hamburg suburb

onto the suburban train and 20 minutes later we are at central station

grab a map and fire up the smartphone gps and get our bearings

we decide to vaguely follow a recommended walking trail

i recall the sad history of hamburg and ww2 bombings

advising there may not be much architecture on view

wrong - the town hall is huge, ornate and impressive

we agree it looks like something transplanted from middle paris

in we go - home to a cinema and an annual film festival

so one of us caught up looking at posters from past events

the other one in our party happy to inspect/photograph architecture

not too much idle time so our trail leads us off to the nicholas 1 church

this one very much a victim of the bombing - only the tower remains

it was the tallest structure in europe when built centuries ago

below is a museum dedicated to the horror of world war 2

tempting but ultimately depressing i suspect so pass

instead we take the 75m lift to the top of the tower

currently surrounded by scaffolding in repair mode

but at the top still snatches of views over the city

some large black and white photos of the sad event 70 years prior 

impressively a translated write-up more or less of self-admonishment

the brits bombing of this city a reasonable response to nazi aggression

all too sad whatever the reason - sobering stuff as we move on

the walking trail heading off to the warehouse quarter

huge multi-level buildings converted for modern use

presumably apartments, offices, shops, restaurants

large canals as channels between the rows of buildings

we take a local lunch of sausage, frittes and beer

check our timing and agree we need to head back

we bypass the town hall and a walk along the waterfront

another beautiful day, people wandering, a huge fountain

all very easy on the eye and we agree to like this place

picking up the pace and back to the station to return to the hotel

possibly a mistake made there in leaving bags there but too late

by the time we get back panic is breathing down our necks

taxi called urgently and the driver co-operates

whisks us in the merc to central with 20 minutes spare

onto our pre-booked train north to the port town of kiel

park our baggage, collapse into seats and set off

enjoy the bypassing north german countryside

all very clean and sparsely populated

anticipation of the cruise building

hamburg - done - we shall return

 

 

cambridge vs oxford

time to bid farewell to cambridge after a great weekend
mission accomplished in a sense with the graduation celebrated
we also leave the uk tonight but first some more countryside
we head west under the direction of the smartphone gps app
she almost sounds like a stuck record as we pass by milton keynes
in a quarter of a mile at the next roundabout take the second exit
suggesting a large grid of north-south roads that we traverse
there's an urge to get into some small english villages
find a little cafe in a little town and enjoy the moment
a couple of gatherings of thatch-roofed homes passed by
and a few miles of narrow lanes also stumbled on
so a brief sense of an bygone era as is desired
but we are caught in a system designed for efficiency
a brief respite at a thrift farm for morning tea and cake
the farm clearly a charity operation for mental health patients
not quite the desired english country experience but enjoyable
oxford is our target destination so that becomes the focus
it takes a couple of hours to get there and into the centre
park the car, wander through a shopping centre and emerge streetside
a hop-on hop-off bus offers the best return on time to invest
we put ourselves on the exposed top deck and put on headphones
our very english guide also up top and providing the soundtrack
culture not high on the content scale - entertainment is
films (harry potter) and tv shows (inspector morse) mentioned
recommendations for pubs to visit and famous drinking holes
colleges passed most famous for residents before fame
margaret thatcher, bob hawke, ronnie barker, david cameron
it all feels a bit like lowest-common-denominator stuff
but as wanted within an hour we have covered a lot of ground
we were warned that oxford is much less about the university
that coming across loud and clear as we then move into lunch mode
trip advisor coming up with the best on offer in the vicinity
pieminister highly recommended and within a 50 metres walk
it's in the covered market - presumably an early shopping centre
many independent and specialist shops under a common roof
feeling very dated and quite under-patronised on this day
except for the pie shop - locals and tourists into it
a classic pie floater their specialty and some enticing pies
we pick one each and have it assembled into their signature dish
pie placed on mashed potatoes and peas, swimming in rich gravy
topped off with crunchy dried shallots - quite delicious
happy to have some classic english food and back to the car
heading south now and onto the motorway towards london
we have plenty of time in case there are any dramas
a tube strike likely to add to the normal congestion
as we get closer to gatwick we have a few worrying stops
any spare time gone by the time we get to easyjet checkin
condense 4 carry-on bags to 2 and head to the gate
a long queue to get on the plane (this is the uk)
and into the air heading to hamburg
farewell uk - we had fun - next...
   

into the english countryside

time to push further into the english countryside
jump into the pug, set up the gps and follow instructions
selected destination - peterborough - route - scenic
so we're up for a 2 hour drive on this monday morning
first impressions are that we're going against the flow
many vehicles heading south and probably london town
second impressions are that roundabouts are king
a mind-boggling array of roads that weave and intersect
clear and useful road and sign markings to guide
almost redundant these days with the smartphone gps
but always reassuring to have backup to she-who-must-be-obeyed
it's a very pleasant drive and an opportunity to pm the weekend
we strike forth into the heart of peterborough and a parking building
trip advisor app checked for the must-see-or-do destinations
the cathedral ranked number 1 by a long shot so off we go
outside - yes - abc it may be (another bloody cathedral)
but step inside and it's immediately striking
huge - height and distance - and steeped in history
it may be a working church but tourism is where it is at
plenty of signage and documentation at hand to assess it's relevance
in one sense a crypt with many royals and nobles at rest here
stories of construction, fires and loss, re-builds
some interactive displays of building techniques
but mostly again it's an arched head peering up
staring in wonder at the precision of it all
a good hour or so spent and then out we go
time for a coffee and cake and rest
unload the bags and camera (take note)
then we boy and girls go separate ways
they shopping - me wandering/looking
conclusion - we are definitely in middle england
cosmopolitan london and elitist cambridge this is not
but ok with that - good to be part of the middle ground
there are definite signs of a country struggling economically
trip adviser also recommends a visit to fen ground
an important archaelogical site outside of town
we drive, we pay, we walk, we imagine, we leave
a bit underwhelming compared to e.g. sites in china
heading back now so an hour's drive to ely for dinner
park the car - grab the camera (not) - uh-oh where is it?
yep - left in the cake shop back in peterborough
a phone call to confirm and a return journey
then fast-track to cambridge on the motorway
the best fush and chups in town are in order
as recommended by the past resident in our midst
then it is time to send her on her way back to sydney
via london - so a drive to the train station
and for us a relatively early night
travelling fun - but - tiring too

take a punt

a nice gentle start to what should be a nice gentle day
starting with a very easy stroll from hotel into town
takes about 30 minutes and time to reflect on the here and now
we have a rendezvous planned for a trip on the cam river
punting - self in our case - 6 of us on one long flat craft
our relative expert takes charge of the pole as we push off
seems we are in safe hands as we initially pass kings college
a sense of all-is-good as again the occasion is embraced
...floating down the river on a sunday afternoon....
we're not alone and the guides on other boats provide details e.g.
the first bridge built over the river cam gave the town it's name
seems the guides have a reputation for making it up on the way
anyway we aren't after information - just enjoying the moment
rain was threatening but it holds off and the warmth is there
the ducks, geese and swans mixing it with boats and humans
willow trees draping the river providing a familiar scene
the avon river in christchurch comes to mind quite easily
and of course - oxford and cambridge terrace adjacent
no wonder everyone has always thought that town very english
at the halfway point we have a change of pilot and hilarity sets in
this one not quite so experienced but prepared to give it a go
she has us ducking under trees and pushing off bridge roofs
but we get back to base unscathed, dry and very happy
next - an hour or 2 before our pre-planned church visit
so back to the familiarity of the centre of town and markets
good to eat local food when possible so cornish pasties for lunch
not too bad either but unlikely to become staple food as here
time rolls around for a quietly anticipated highlight
we're off to the evening choral service at king's college
the choir at the college has an internationally acclaimed reputation
i know this because my sister and parents are big fans
and we sell the odd cd in our own little music store
we are offered 2 options - a rear seat behind a partition
or be part of the congregation but we are warned
if we do that - we have to stay the distance
an hour long service - no worries - in we go
at our selected pew it's a look up in wonder
an estimated 40 metres of walls and stain glass
topped off by a ceiling of spiderweb like construction
then the service starts - organists sat high up and centred
and the rumble of the organ is gut-trembling - we are moved
the choir cuts in and the harmonies leads to transcendence
we are in a very special place at a very special time
a glance around the other attendees confirms this
some families, some elder parishioners no doubt
tourists like us but all differences aside
as the service glides from song to tune to spoken word
the minister singing as opposed to speaking a sermon
a soloist of presumably the finest calibre
but the choir are the stars - in unison with the organ
me - head back, closed eyes, goosebumps and tears
a very, very spiritual experience to be had
feeling all warm and fuzzy as we head out
a beautiful warm evening in this magic place
onto another dinner date at a local restaurant
what a superb day - again - lucky us

g-day

4 weddings and a funeral comes to mind
or at least the opening expletive-loaded scene
as we wake and realise we have well over-slept
slept very well in fact after last night's big dinner
today is official graduation day and first up a photo call
the official course photos at the judge business school
all 160 graduates dressed appropriately in black and gowns
the emerald-green silk sash providing a dash of class
proud parents and families hovering and cameras clicking
more introductions to more fellow students and kin
many travelling far and wide to be here on this day
though dunedin to cambridge probably takes the prize
one small claim to fame amongst this mental power-house
thankfully the weather continues to hold in our favour
a bit cold outside as the official group photos are taken
one graduate (ahem) insisting on bunny-ears and selfies
that completed and a few hours available for indulgence
first stop is the museum - large, imposing and inviting
free entry so quite wrongly not expecting too much
upstairs - monet, picasso, cezanne and a whole lot more
downstairs - huge collection of archaelogical pieces
some dating back 3,000 years - a few hours well spent
cambridge impressively has a central no-car zone
so wandering the cobblestone streets an easy pleasure
saturday morning so plenty of people out and about
there's food and craft markets on in the town square
and all manner of cafes and specialist shops to visit
a walk across a large open park to the college of hughes hall
the prior home of our graduand so an official lunch
and a brief speech to congratulate the graduates
a sense of pride and comraderie coming across
more so as they gather up and begin their walk
another pinch-me moment as we follow the parade
the 100 or so in multi-coloured sashes hitting the streets
destination the senate house for the official ceremony
a long wait in an orderly queue in the spring sun
and then ushered into this most prestigious space
we are seated about 5 metres from where it happens
as each student in turn is officially dubbed (?)
the historical context of this ceremony appreciated
as all but the student's name is spoken in latin
there's spine-tingling and moist eyes at our special moment
all over in a matter of seconds but nonetheless unmissable
no matter what else we see or do on this trip
outside on the senate lawn the joviality continues
congratulations, hugs, photos and happiness abound
an understanding that is is a very special time for all
a bridge between the slog of study and long careers
many close friendships already forged and strengthened here
there's another official ceremony at the corn exchange
presumably once used for that purpose but now a venue
various musicians (neil finn) locked in for future dates
however today's performer is the head of the mba course
he makes a very warm fatherly speech and hands out awards
top of class, best collaborator and directors certificates
more fun for all involved (possibly not the restless children)
then party over and the end of official proceedings
bus home, some down-time then back to town for dinner
jamie oliver has opened a chain of italian themed restaurants
the one in cambridge is housed in what used to be a library
a very impressive building with a large central dome
the place is buzzing on this saturday night
we are seated in full view of the open kitchen
orders placed from the enticing menu of pastas, etc
pleasant conversations all round and people-watching
mainly the staff as they impressively do their thing
mr oliver seems to have struck on a successful formula
no doubt he has set a high standard for his restaurants
another great experience on this day on this trip
graduation day - unique and unforgettable

north to cambridge

dubai tick - copenhagen tick - london tick

part 4 of this overseas excursion is the next adventure

and the reason for the whole trip - cambridge graduation ceremony

but first - london has been quite full on so some english gardens beckon

a wander around the grounds of chiswick house with our host jan

she mentions she could walk around this place blindfolded

so the perfect tour guide as we marvel at it's serenity

the historical context of the place well appreciated

breakfast taken at the modern but symbiotic cafe

then farewells and into the pug to head north

a 2 hour journey on the busy but efficient motorway system

check-in to our hotel on the outskirts of cambridge

and a 10 minute bus journey to the heart of town

find an approriate looking cafe and settle in

we're here - excitement is quietly building

time taken to appreciate the trip so far

all very smooth and incident-free

some expert (lucy) planning paying off

then it's an initial wander around cambridge

we are in the company of a student/guide (holly)

into the grounds of trinity college and jaws drop

just stunning - 800 year old buildings the background

perfectly manicured green-striped lawns in the foreground

we are lucky and privileged guests in the beautiful chapel

statues of famous past students to behold e.g. isaac newton

back onto the cobble-stone streets to view other colleges

kings college in all it's glory and some familiarity

we see a sign inviting attendance at a choral service

that is locked in for a must-do on the coming sunday

we cannot dither too much today - we need to accessorise

there's a formal dinner booked in for tonight - need a tie

so a visit to the t-k-maxx store and mission accomplished

bus home, on with the glad rags and taxi back to queens college

meet up with the other 4 in our group and we are ready for dinner

across a moat and into the main hall of this most famous place

easy to go into timeless mode and imagine what has gone before

we are part of a centuries old tradition of meals in this great hall

the lighting is subtle so the darkish atmosphere adding to the ambience 

the food itself of simple english fare - meat, gravy and 3 veg etc

but superbly cooked and presented and with ample wine to wash

it's also a jovial atmosphere as students re-engage

the mba course concluded 6 months ago so lots to talk about

for us in the audience it's a privelige to just observe

me - pinch, pinch, pinch - look where i am

soak it up and appreciate - easily done

taxi home - cambridge - woo-hoo

goodnight...

london 2

the reason for this overseas trip is almost upon us
the graduation ceremony for holly's mba ex cambridge
today we pick her up from heathrow and head back to london
we have a car park pre-organised at euston so that is the target
silly us spend a lot of time avoiding the dreaded congestion area
mistakingly believing signs for controlled zones are one and the same
so plenty of detours taken and plenty of back-street london seen
not such a bad thing before the penny drops and we get it right
ignore the controlled zone signs unless you are car-parking
so then quickly to euston to park the car and into the tube
we've got some more european rail travel tickets to obtain
after which the girls make the most of the shops on offer
me - well into the swing of it all in london town now
people-watching and general looking and observing
this place buzzes - one overhead comment -
in london you feel your life accelerate
pretty right actually - it is a frantic pace
or at least on the street where it's full on
relief taken at another chinatown restauarant for yum char
re-grouping and discussions for the afternoon activities
some modern art is the consensus so we head to the tate
a converted power station and a monolithic building
4 floors of art, sculptures, installations, stuff
some - na - i could've done that (yes but you didn't)
others - yep - be happy to have that on my wall at home
the ambience of the place most effective and time flies
out into the real world and a pleasant stroll along the thames
the compulsory pimms and/or guiness at the outdoor bar
and the urge for more people-watching/shopping
so back to the circus - oxford and piccadilly
thursday evening/night is the busiest of the week
so we're caught up in tourists and locals alike out
bars over-flowing with workers indulging in an ale
us on the search for a restaurant with a difference
the wright brothers off carnaby street fits the bill
we are seated in the courtyard shared with various shops
scan the mostly seafood menu and enjoy a delicious meal
agree this is one of our better culinary experiences
then back on the street, into the tube, back to euston
an interesting drive back to chiswick gps-less
a flat battery forcing a return to the old ways
but we survive - part 3 over - next - cambridge

london trek

chapter 3 in this overseas jaunt finds us in london for 2 days
nothing in particular planned except to make the most of it
we're staying in the leafy and comfortable western suburb of chiswick
spent some time there in my relative youth so it's good to be back
a new late model double-decker bus to the train station and catch a train
mid-morning so seats available as we are whisked to waterloo station
and here the momentum cranks up a notch or 2 as we enter the tube
the need to click fairly quickly into the mechanism of this system
people are scurrying in all directions and tourist status is irrelevant
a sense and need to act quickly and effectively to maintain the flow
have the target line and direction well in mind and read the signs
pick the correct corridor, escalator, staircase and direction
remain calm and confident and the reward is anonymity
just another of the millions using this system on a daily basis
up we come at london bridge station and the famous borough market
it's all about food and a vast selection of stalls of international tastes
a mouth-watering array of choice for a couple of hungry foodies
we settle on some cajun style fish washed down with turkish coffee
and then set forth on foot to take in some more london sights
cross the thames using blackfriar's bridge and a stroll along the river
we stroll - they run - many fleet street professionals on a fitness regime
our walk of 3km enough justification for a guinness at the first pub we spot
a very pleasant stroll amongst the buskers and street artists of covent gardens
people everywhere - no respite from the busy-ness of it all - take it or leave it
we are clicking into the rhythm of it so agree on taking another tube trip
under the thames and coming up at westminster right under big ben
a stroll around the houses of parliament and a giggle at the bobbies
surely the most photogenic selected to stand guard at the entrance
as tourists insist on being photographed with this british icon
we head to downing street but alas can not get too close
so using our oyster cards we jump on to a double-decker
and off to the shopping area around oxford circus
no sign of gfc hangover or recessions here
just a lot of people and a lot of shops
lots of yellow plastic bags also - selfridges
so a visit to that huge store out of curiousity
next - taxi - we need to complete the travel experience
so off to soho - theatre district - lots of shows on offer
once - let the right one in - thriller - dirty rotten scoundrels
plenty of employment opportunities for nephew james t
we pass on the show as the tummies are rumbling
chinatown in striking distance and needing a visit
relatively quiet there so we pick a restaurant
enjoy a familiar meal then reverse it all
drop into the tube/train system
and back to chiswick
phew - lon-done

from copenhagen to london

flying on a budget airline has its ups and downs
easyjet insisted on charging us for a 1kg excess
their check-in counter at one end of a large terminal
their plane sitting at a gate at the opposite end
so the longest walk known from check-in to check-out
flight - tight but mercifully brief and to the point
the uk's reputation upheld and a long wait at customs
an hour's wait for the pleasure of an officer's interrogation
rapid-fire questions and a deliberate attempt to trip us up
but we hold our resolve and she almost reluctantly waves us through
bags retrieved but alas past the bedtime for the car rental people
service - what service - but all is not lost - more walking
we are guided to their other office in the other terminal
more long corridors, travelators and a monorail train
and true to form another queue awaits our participation
fortunately the friendly assistant knows how to assist
mixed in with late night banter about the joys of travel in nz
just give us the keys dude - but car rental is universally tedious
questions, forms, documents, proof, upgrades, insurance
hundreds of keystrokes into some badly designed system
our resolve is weakened and we agree to a car upgrade
and so eventually we settle into the new peugeot 2008
a 6 speed manual diesel mini-suv with the odour of new
no gps so smartphone, local sim and google to the rescue
set the controls for the heart of london and off we go
4 days of almost constant activity in copenhagen has caught up
tiredness has settled in so a hit of coke is required
and about 3 hours after landing we get to our digs
the god of car-spaces smiling on us as we park the car
and into the comfort of our hosts 3rd floor unit
phew - that bit of travel was a bit of a struggle
pay it forward - done - let's enjoy london...
 

castle chasing

enjoyed the train trip yesterday up the coast to louisiana
so we're back on the train today and chasing castles
one primarily in mind so that is the planned first stop
3 train trips and a long walk to get to the destination
but something not right - nothing like the photo online
quite underwhelming in fact - castle no country estate yes
a beautiful day again so quite pleasant just wandering
a long walk to a lake/jetty then around the the grounds
some serious excavation of gardens, etc being undertaken
which all becomes obvious why when a local is questioned
seems we have got our castles confused and this is fredensborg
the official summer palace for the queen of denmark due soon
our very friendly advisor confirming 2 more stops required
so back on the train we go and push further into north zealand
last stop is the stunning seaside town of helsinger
it's most famous landmark is the kronborg castle
home many centuries ago for the prince of hamlet
and used even today to host the shakespeare play
we have been blessed again with gorgeous spring weather
so wondering up to and around the castle done with ease
we hook onto a guided tour and learn of the past party times
apparantly kronborg was known as the party and feast castle
they came from near and far to be entertained by the king of denmark
us - we have another castle in mind so back on the train
heading south and then north west to the town of hillerod
a walk from the station to the castle of frederiksborg
a huge structure out on a lake with large surrounding gardens
this our original planned castle visit and most impressive
it also doubles as denmark's national gallery of art
so room after room of the finest of oil paintings
and a beautiful chapel that is still in current use
we hardly did the place justice but have to move
so we re-trace our steps to the train station
back to copenhagen, back to the hotel
gathering of suitcases, etc
out to the airport
and hej hej
copenhagen
marvellous

north to zealand

our tour guide from yesterday suggested 2 must-do visits
the free town/district of christianshavn already ticked off
so this morning we walked the few blocks from hotel to tivoli
an amusement park located smack bang in the middle of copenhagen
it takes up a full block and has been part of city life for centuries
the rides may not be state of the art but there's a great atmosphere
it's all very neat, very quaint and obviously very well maintained
guides in black, grape and gold uniforms and peaked caps
peacocks wandering free, olde worldy sweet shops
sunny weather and surprisingly few punters
a large stage promising some cuban music tonight
so we agree on a day pass and a return evening visit
we have another target destination for today - louisiana
a modern art gallery in a town on the north zealand coast
mainly an opportunity to get out of the city and check the countryside
stunning really - the train hugs the coast and passes through many villages
to the right and across the sea sweden can be seen - left are rolling pastures
not much livestock at all to be seen except for a few cattle and herds of deer
the houses are all large and 2 storeyed with steeply sloping roofs
a clue that for some months of the year snow falls and accumulates
louisiana itself is large and multi-levelled and purpose-built
the current attraction is an exhibition of the work of hilma af klint
an early 20th century artist with strong interest in spirituality
hundreds of her paintings on display each demanding time to absorb
not too much of that so lunch taken in the beautiful seaside gardens
then the return journey to the city and back on the gobikes
first stop the round tower and a clamber to the top
burj kaleifa it is not in height but the views as stunning
we pick out known places we have visited - quite a few
and marvel at the huge wind turbines in the harbour
agreeing we now l-o-v-e this city - and we're off
the tower also home to an art gallery so in we go
an exhibition of the work of local artist otto frello
he produces vivid images bordering reality and imagination
so the writeup suggests - happy with that then out of there
quite confident on the bikes now so an extended trip
easily and comfortably mixing it with other riders and cars
major streets now crossed or ridden along - with little concern
grab the bottle of red, back to the tivoli for some cuban music
spoilt by a brief rain shower and then a walk back to the hotel
many kilometres covered today by foot, bike and train - great day

hot dog day in copenhagen

the locals are ecstatic - a summer's day in early spring
we're booked on a 3 hour free guided tour of copenhagen
magnus thor is our guide - he tells us he is our easter jesus
kind of looking the part with the dishevelled beard and hair
he's a very proud son of denmark and past resident of usa/australia
he sets a cracking pace and at every stop informs and entertains
within a few minutes it is very apparant that this is worthwhile
the meanings of architecture, statues and buildings explained
and also an insight into the (mostly) left-wing politics of denmark
a very generous welfare state and a high tax rate to cope
but according to magnus that is all ok with the workers
for it is a given that when in need the state will support
we walk all over the inner city - lots to see and hear
standing outstide the houses of parliament is revealing
for one the lack of security - these people are not paranoid
secondly the modesty of the building suggests service over self
lunch stop consists of a highly recommended local hot dog - yum
then onto visit frederick and mary - or at least their digs
again - we can walk right up to their house/palace - no security
magnus reminds us the danish people very much love their royalty
a final sad story from him about the kings handling of the nazis
and of the people in general refusing to surrender their jews
moist eyes all round as our 3 hours walking tour concluded
a walk (jump) back through the royal gounds and to church
easter sunday so some quiet refection in the marble dome
staggeringly impressive architecture and construction
next - woo-hoo - onto a couple of city-provided bikes
fully set up with handlebar-mounted gps tablet system
sign-up and set forth to selected point-of-interest
a couple of those but mostly enjoying the ride
bike lanes all over the city and cars no issue
more bikes than cars and drivers showing respect
we dock the bikes and walk to today's final destination
christianshavn - the 'free' city - read hippy commune
40 years ago a group squatted in some derelict buildings
today there are 800 people over a large lakeside area
an autonomous group supported/tolerated by the government
walk through the gates and transformation is immediate
feeling very much like a time-warp to a past era
there's a familiar pungent odour in the air
houses/shacks in ramshackle condition
groups of people wandering aimlessly
bars, cafes, a poolhouse, a stage
tonight a reggae dj and singer at work
all quite seductive for an easy hour or 2
and then back to the real world of copenhagen
a final walk/stagger at dusk back to the hotel
many kilometres covered today - totally satisfying

du-bye hej copenhagen

another sleepless night / early morning to take in an international flight
goodbye dubai - your ultra-rich youthfulness has been very enjoyable
but copenhagen awaits and there's a longing for some deep culture
we are both new to this city and country and that is always a buzz
arriving in a new place with an open mind and the need to adapt quickly
the short train journey from airport to central station done easily
and ditto the walk with luggage from station to our hotel
nice digs - top floor - balcony - small but comfortable
no plans to spend long in hotel rooms and so off we go
it takes all of about 1 minute to realise this is special
lots of happy people are out and soaking up the sun
spring is sprung and it's easter so people are relaxing
we spot a bar offering carlsberg at happy-hour-half-price
table in the sun, busker in the background - cheers m'dear
first sit-down since the flight and opportunity to assess
we l-i-k-e this place and off we go to our planned destination
a cafe waterfront strip called nyhavn - travel advisor recommends
but before that - we bypass copenhagen canal tours
impulsiveness is a good thing in holiday mode so all aboard
an hour long guided tour on a large flat barge like vessel
this providing the perfect place to check the local architecture
a great combination of old/restored buildings and new designs
we start out in the inner city canal but then soon are in open water
the royal yacht, opera house, frederick and mary's house (palace)
world's best restaurant (noma), national library, eco (dome) house
and significantly plenty of people relaxing and waving throughout
the guide providing some interesting insight to what we see
back and dry land and then striking off to nyhavn (new harbour)
late saturday afternoon, holiday weekend, sunny and warm
so the place is buzzing and all in relaxed and happy mode
though possibly a permanent state of being for denmark
officially the happiest nation on the planet
and we easily taken up by the mood
local fush and chips and another ale
and a wander back to the hotel
day 1 in copenhagen done
this is going to be good...

hitting the shlopes

there's something compelling about high buildings
in this case it's the burj kaleifa - tallest in the world
6 years to build, completed in 2010 - 800 metres straight up
bookings essential for the trip up and our t.a. has it sorted
up we go - also the fastest lifts in the world = fastest ear-popping
we're only at the 124th floor complete with outdoor viewing deck
would be easy to scramble over the handrail and base-jump
that thought parked for a future visit in a future life
the views of course are stunning - we can pick out landmarks
our hotel, the burj al-arab, metro line, the world (project), etc
the mandatory top-of-the-tower souvenirs bypassed and back on earth
this building arises out of the simply titled dubai mall
the biggest shopping centre in the world (of course)
and so a few hours spent wandering with the usual conclusion
seen one shopping centre and you've seen them all
westfield in bondi junction seems the model for the dubai mall
homogenised shopping and very high rents = very high pricing
sadly though they also have a souk that must challenge the real deal
the sparseness of customers here suggesting this town ain't big enough
and one or other (or both) may not last - hope it's the real one
we wait for and watch the highly regarded fountain display
choreographed water cannons set to opera or middle east dance music
not too bad really and set in front of the burj adds to the appeal
next - we're in the mode so it's off to the emirates mall
you can't have too much shopping (ahem) but ulterior motive here
this place is home to dubai ski - an indoor ski slope - yep
will we do it - yes, no, yes, no - yes - no hesitation really
haven't managed to get on the slopes in nz so let's do it in dubai
all gear provided so within 30 minutes we are on the slopes
some caution taken on the first couple of runs (it's been a while)
but then we're ripping up and down the finely prepared runs
a genuine chair-lift, real snow, and lodges looking as genuine as
not too many people indulging either so no delays in lift queues
admittedly a good run down takes 1-2 minutes and a lift up 5-ish
time spent on the lift discussing this most unlikey scenrio
we live in nz but come to dubai to go skiing - go figure
our allotted 2 hours rolls around at about the right time
as per the real world the slopes get chilly at day's end
so we unload skis and clothing and head back into the mall
a 10 minute turnaround between a skier and a shopper
amazing experience - but again - is fake the new reality?
there will be generations who think indoor is all there is
shame really - nothing beats the real thing - this year!
another very fulfilling day in this enticing place
next stop copenhagen - looking forward to some culture...

the market rules

the hyatt regency dubai is a 24-floor 5-star hotel
not at all centrally located so buses, taxis, trains required
to get to some of the big ticket items on the visitor's menu
but we snagged it well for a couple of must-visit destinations
first up on this day was a 5 minute walk to the fish market
it took no time at all to realise this place was premium
at least one of us in raptures over the smorgasbord on offer
prawns sized like fists, blue swimmer crabs stacked 20 deep
anchovies, squid, sardines, lobsters, salmon of all sizes
more shellfish varieties on offer than ever seen before
stalls specialising in smoked, dried and fresh fish
row after row of vendors dressed in common atire
gently seeking a sale or mostly teasing the tourists
no need to purchase so back to the metro to move on
next stop a cultural tour in the old part of the city
started well but turned into another q&a come lecture
this from an entertaining arab in robes on a mission
muslims are not oil-rich, woman-hating, bomb-carrying zealots
yes well had that pretty well sorted so the message a bit tedious
lunch in the courtyard of a nearby arabian teahouse welcomed
then back to the (un)real world of modern day dubai
a monorail trip out on the trunk of the pines project
a mind-boggling project on land claimed from the sea
hundreds of apartment blocks and beachfront houses
surely a case of money no object and we-can-so-we-will
ditto with the atlantis development where the monorail ends
a huge waterpark with man-made rivers, lakes and waterslides
we happy to get into the fresh water and have a bit of fun
reminding me of days spent floating down real rivers on tubes
but also thinking how sad that today it's artificiality that rules
and even worse that it costs a small fortune to get into fake
no wonder the middle class is disappearing - fun costs big
a desire to get back to another reality sees us at the souk
the gold market also in the old part of town near our hotel
a pleasurable time spent wondering the blocks of shops
window-shopping for jewellery has never been such fun
culminating in a visit to the spice market - ditto
a day in the markets to obtain saffron and coffee
but another day of unforgettable experiences...

happy b day

our own personal travel agent has done some fine organising
ensuring we are booked into venues, etc that are a must see or do
so on our first full day in dubai we are off to visit the jumeriah mosque
a guided tour and q&a session in their open door open mind program
the impression of an attempt to neutralise probable typical muslim negativity
fair enough - we a bit underwhelmed by that and the fairly new building
but worth the effort - next - beach visit (hot) and public transport training
this is serious stuff - e.g. air-conditioned bus-stops for the pristine buses
and the metro rail system - the world's longest driver-less train network
70km of super-efficient, super-clean, super-everything electric trains
making the journey as rewarding as the destination in this modern city
but a big contrast is the order of the day for the evening and night
we are transported 45km out of the city and then back in time we go
a fleet of 1950's open-top land-rovers is loaded up with the punters
complete with mandatory head scarves to really set the scene
and off we go on another 45 minutes rollicking dune-bashing
our driver stopping regularly to point out the local flora and fauna
gazelles spotted frequently and time taken to learn about the vegetation
various desert mushrooms and very unusual trees with multiple uses
medicinal mainly but halluciogenic and simple sustenance also
another stop is for a demonstration of the art of falconry
an ancient bedouin tradition where bird and man co-exist
the bird the hunter and the man the gatherer and sharing the spoils
in this case a quail used to demonstrate the falcons deadly skills
very impressive and more relief for the knocked knees and bums
respect for the skilled drivers and more so the authentic vehicles
our destination is a simple camp set up to host we dune-bashers
starting with a camel ride to further enhance the desert experience
then it's into the meal based around an in-ground slow cooked lamb
generous servings of traditional salads, rice, breads and juices
the still of the balmy night in this remote location quite seductive
and then topped off sprawled on cushions and hookah at hand
sucking in the heady flavours of the hubbly-bubbly mix
enjoying some raqs sharqi (belly) dancing and trad music
a happy birthday sung to another punter on the trip
and a reminder of a special day for myself
quite unforgettable really...is good...

the day goes on forever...

day one of about 40 of them to be spent in the northern hemisphere

a 6am flight out of sydney so a 4am check-in hence a 3am get-up

this after a previous night of minimal sleep with the need to cram

a 14 hour flight surely with some opportunity for some zzzz-ing

nope - too much on offer on this flight on this amazing aircraft

finally a trip on an A380 operated by favourite airline emirates
it's b-i-g - a wide cabin and a very tall ceiling height (times 2)
state-of-the-art back-of-the-seat entertainment system
and  a couple of new extra on board creature comforts
240v to the seat so the laptop can stay up and running
and wireless so there's no chance to enjoy the blackout
though in this case a minor issue getting online was welcome
flying has always been an opportunity to get some downtime
which has it's advantages so the glitch is not such a bad thing
good films, good service, good company = very good flight
dubai airport is big, spotless, very functional and efficient
into the taxi and first impressions are this is going to be fun

the hyatt regency politely tried the up-sell but politely declined
all good so far and one of the trip highlights planned for this evening
off to the burj al-arab we go - iconic sail-shaped hotel beyond the beach
walking up to it with all the sense of excitement and anticipation expected
we have a booking for the 27th floor skyview bar but before that - wow
the no-expense-spared decor/architecture done so tastefully
you know you are in a special and totally unique place
ditto with the skyview bar and our window-side table
looking back over the glimmering city nightline
knocking back the sky-high (priced) cocktails
pinching myself about the where and how
and that surreal feeling of the longest day
a380 and burj al-arab - tick and tick
day one done and dusted promisingly
very happy, very lucky, very grateful...