paris

there are 400km between lyon and paris - 2 hours by bullet train
a very fast trip in a train offering the essential luxuries - 240v and coffee
going station to station in the heart of each city making air travel redundant
unfortunately in this case the time to get settled into the hotel almost as long
we battle with false directions, false assumptions and ambivalent taxi drivers
it's a relief to finally get into our hotel room in the south eastern area of daumesnil
no time to dwell - we want to get to versailles - the receptionist consulted for directions
oops - we meant chateau versailles not port versailles - a waste of tram time to find out
the day disappearing so change of plans and onto the metro to get into mid city
galeries lafayette is the second most popular tourist spot in paris after the louvre
we find this out afterwards - 100,000 plus a day visit it so it's crawling with people
moving on - let's walk to the arc de triomphe and stroll down champ d'elysee
crikey - people everywhere - the champ is flooded - not the way we remember
friday evening possibly though it does seem to be mainly tourists like us
we fight our way to the arc and take the mandatory photos and consider options
a bike/carriage is on offer - negotiate a deal and then head down the avenue
our turkish driver obviously decides the agreed price means a reduced ride
he deposits us well short of our agreed target of the louvre so a walk is on
a 15 minute wander in the late afternoon sun and more throngs of people
by now the anticipated aura of paris has all but disappeared - try again
the latin quarter for dinner - that has always been a favourite area
but again - people/tourists everywhere and looking kind of tired
restaurants full/overflowing but not much enticing about them
we go around in circles trying to get the missing mojo back
but it's not happening - we put it down to our own tiredness
so disappear into the metro and head to home base for dinner
an ok meal at a restaurant in the daumesnil area near our hotel
saturday morning is a later start than intended but verailles is on
metro/train/walk to the chateau to be confronted with a huge queue
snaking for an estimated kilometre - but - we are here so we join up
it's all good humoured in the summer sun so the hour goes quite quickly
upon entry it takes about 10 seconds to realise the wait was all worthwhile
we've seen some amazing palaces on this trip but this one seems to top them
high ceilings, exquisite artwork, marble construction, incredible attention to detail
each room entered is unique in some way and the audio guide is well appreciated
fortunately the large crowds and the slow pace provides the time to observe
the hall of mirrors is stunning but the best room of all the is huge portrait gallery
130 metres long and 30 meters wide - the 2 walls of paintings similarly huge
containing a chronological account of the history of france in oil paintings
that alone was worth the time/price of entry - could have spent all day there
unlike the number of people observed busy snapping endless digital photos
looking at the results of that more than the magnificent paintings themselves
presumably gathering evidence for the been-there-done-that catalogue
we take a welcome lunch in the fine (priced) cafe within the chateau
then head outside for a wander in the sprawling chateau gardens
the yard goes on forever - marie antoinettes playground apparantly
a collection of rectangular shaped tall garden areas like a maze
pathways leading through each one to a unique central feature
various water features and/or statues the most common
1 large feature hosting a music syncronised water jet display
2 hours of wandering had a cost so a nap by the canal enjoyed
then the decision to head back to paris for our final night in europe
we emerge from the metro at sacre coeur - uh-oh - more crowds
the wristband sellers more aggressive than usual with full hands on
a climb to the top and a gentle wander around the cathedral well enjoyed
dinner time - the want to make it a special one on this special night
we search for a while then aux trois petits cochons (3 little pigs) appeals
then enjoy a superb french meal including real-deal champagne and wine
a wonderful setting to talk over a great trip and exciting future plans
noting that numerology and today's date provide our lucky number
we know we are already very lucky - so decide to push further
moulin rouge nearby so a wander in that area also enjoyed
we try and squeeze in a visit to the eiffel tower this night
but the rail system and red wine conspires against us
so that visit is made on sunday morning
brunch enjoyed in a nearby cafe
and then (sniff) to the airport
in a peugeot 508 taxi (thanks)
au revoir paris and europe
it has been outstanding...

lyon

lyon included in this trip as a stopover to paris
main attraction being summer nights - a music festival
a 3 stage journey ex montreux - fast train, bus, regional train
all the fast trains to lyon booked out due to a public holiday there
so quite late by the time we get to lyon and then take on the local metro
after depositing all but basics in a 24 hour locker - good move
get out at gare de vaisse and a local bus along the soane river
oops - overshoot - so a bit of a hike back to the hotel
check in and unload more gear in our very nice room
get directions back to the city and back on the bus
10 minutes later we are riverside in a busy cafe
beautiful sunny day and locals enjoying their day off
the cafe seems under-staffed so a long wait for our late lunch
but no worries - we are looking directly up hill to the cathedral
and agreeing - lyon seems tres cool - so far - not much time left though
so we're off - a wandering we shall go heading to tourist information
an office in the main square of lyon - that a red dust/gravel centre
contrasting with the greenery of the hills, blue sky and white/grey buildings
we defy experience again and board the top deck of the ho-ho bus
take an hour long journey around the city and nearby hills
and with the english audio guide quickly learn a lot
there's a suburb called confluence - where 2 rivers meet
the soane and the rhone both run through lyon and converge
it so happens said music festival is based there so next stop
we walk/tram to that part of the city, gather info and wander again
the suburb previously in neglect and home to warehouses, etc
but now urban developers have taken hold and it is being resurrected
some incredible architecture - large buildings of bold colours and designs
the music festival in full swing so electronica music booming
sun out, groups of people walking, picnicing, drinking, etc
a real party atmosphere on a huge scale as we walk about
we arrive at the point of confluence for the 2 rivers
understated in itself except for a new construction
musee de confluence - part ufo, part ship, part insect
a massive structure of very random shapes and materials
some architect has free licence to create a bizarre building
it sure is a statement and says a lot about lyon itself
respecting it's past history but wanting to create a modern legacy
time will tell of course but mental note to return to confluence one day
for today though we enter another very impressive looking building
a huge girder and glass roof stradling 3 levels of shops, etc
the top floor a range of restaurants under the open roof
there's a very good jazz trio pumping out a great sound
dinner taken out on the deck of a seafood restaurant
the best escargots ever tasted i am advised
then a packed tram back to the city proper
the place is jumping - people everywhere
we enjoy the atmosphere for an hour or so
then re-enter the metro system and head home
sitting at the front of a driverless metro train
quite surreal as we go through darkened tunnels and stations
emerge on the other side of the soane and walk along it to home
oh yes - lyon - what a great discovery - back we will come
more days/weeks definitely required here...

geneva

our eurail pass entitles us to unlimited 1st class travel
so it's a no-brainer when we decide geneva needs a visit
jump on the fast train at montreux for an hour long trip
skimming along the edge of the beautiful lake geneva
there's a very real difference in the air to montreux
geneva city is buzzing and more like what we are used to
a bit of business to attend to at the station then we are off
we are a bit addicted to the joy of wandering in a new city
aimless meandering always produces interesting results
before long we are at lakeside and in search of food
lunch at the cafe of the 4 seasons hotel is tempting
but no time to organise a mortgage to pay for it
judging by the lineup of rollers, mercs, etc
we settle for some takeaway crepes and coffee
delicious too - seconds taken then onto a boat
an hour long cruise around lake geneva in the sun
many significant landmarks (and water jets) taken in
feeling more oriented now and a walk into the city centre
shops - plenty - people - ditto - atmosphere - bouyant
a walk along the main boulevarde with all the name shops
then push up-hill past many boutique shops to the cathedral
a wander around there and marvelling at the choice of eateries
many people taking up the invitation late on this thursday afternoon
back down the hill to the start of the rhone river out of the lake
there's a huge amount of sparkling clean water flowing out
no wonder there are so many drinking fountains around
and presumably the sales of bottled water fairly low
there is certainly a lot appealing about geneva
one shop in particular selling lace/leather jackets
no deal able to be done so mentally parked for later use
we re-trace our steps and train journey back to montreux
then boldly go in search of a restaurant for dinner
the one in mind already closed for the night
but there's one nearby that welcomes us
we ignore their bold pricing plan
enjoy a last meal in switzerland
and then wander home - to pack

montreux

not sure about montreux - last night was a bit underwhelming
we headed straight for the old town after unloading gear
a few narrow streets containing some old homes and shops
there's also an impressive waterfall and bridge built there
but the first thing we notice - very quiet - no-one around
cruise down into the city proper in search of a cafe
ditto - most places closed, expensive or basically uninviting
we try and repeat last night's lucerne picnic dinner experience
but the main supermarket in town closes at 7pm so no chance
we have a bottle of wine with us so decide on byo chinese
but they less than impressed with that request so move on
across the road is holly food - takeaways - the name sells it
so chicken wings and chips it is - off to lakeside we head
a bit of rain coming in so we need some sort of shelter
trouble is most of those are inhabited by 2 or more blokes
they don't seem the type you would want to share dinner with
so we hijack a cafe table and chairs and set up under an awning
food - pass, weather - marginal, vibe - non-existant, game - abandoned
the hope of finding some cool jazz club also dashed after enquiries
theory - montreux is an older person's city - big incomes needed
it all feels and looks like things stopped happening 30 years ago
harsh - and hopefully wrong - more time and digging required
the first part of day 2 in montreux is to explore the chillon castle
a medieval fortress built on a rock on the edge of lake geneva
apart from the annual jazz festival it is the city's claim to fame
we take a self-guided tour and work our way right through
cellars, dungeons, an execution room, bastions and a moat
a large number of rooms found scrambling up and down stairs
the savoys used it as a regular stopping point in their travels
it has a dank smell about it and a kind of creepy feel also
an hour is long enough - glad we came but no need to dwell
except briefly in the shop to buy some of the chillon branded wine
we decide to take the lakeside walk back into town - very pleasant
part way we spot a fenicular railway heading steeply up from the lake
cannot resist that so 15 minutes later we are sitting in a cafe way up high
great views down to the castle, montreux city and large lake geneva
same though - it's very quiet - maybe summer or a ski season required
a different train is available for a trip back to central railway station
it breaks as we head off - switzerland - surely not - change trains please
eventually we are back at central and decide - let's head to geneva
we have rail bookings to confirm and montreux is not doing it for us
our eurail pass needs flogging also so the decision is easily made
looks like sun at the other end of the lake so off we go...

golden pass

we've had an amazing run with the weather really
a bit dull and wet in prague but that kind of worked
today we had plans to do the cablecar ride up mt pilatus
but inclement weather would have provided great views of clouds
we've both been there before so no big loss as plans re-arranged
a planned 5 hour train expedition then started earlier
first part a near 2 hour trip from lucerne to interlaken
our eurail global pass entitles us to 1st class carriages
and we have it pretty well to ourselves as we head out
the climb is almost immediate and seems effortless
we're well into the heart of the swiss interior
in every direction there is something to gape at
beautiful little villages each featuring a church or 2
a raging river, waterfalls, rock-faces, huge mountains
not much sign of life - human or animal - very neat fields
thoughts on how incomes are generated - possibly commuting?
or are the residents fund managers for swiss bank accounts
2 hours passes by quickly with so much to see and discuss
a brief stop to change trains at interlaken for part 2
we're lakeside for a good part of the journey to zweisimmen
comparisons to nz south island scenery easy to make
except for the sight of large villages mountainside
more pondering about how people get to some of the houses
many perched in isolation or grouped way, way up above
no obvious sign of roads so presumably walked/climbed
whatever the means the residents are in splendid isolation
another hour of simple gazing passes by in no time
then the final change to the golden pass train to montreux

so called because of the spectacular scenery on offer

we're in another carriage offering panoramic views

so our heads are going in all directions soaking it up

it's fairly obvious we are in a decent sized swiss ski area

the season well finished and summer coming so no skiers

but lots of ski-lifts, lodges, equipment shops and the odd hiker

after our dubai ski experience there is talk of returning here one day

but for now it's all look and talk only as the train continues it's climb

all quite surreal in a way - so many houses and so few people

the descent into montreux is made with the odd zig or zag

lake geneva opening up before us in all it's glory

stunning views too - it is huge - like an inland ocean

the size of montreux surprises us also as it stretches out

from central station it's a clamber up a few steep streets

lugging 4 suitcases and other bags to our apartment

perched high up overlooking the lake

took a while to locate the place

but worth the effort for our 2 day stopover

lucerne

intercity again today from milan to lucerne via lugano
6am we are out of the hotel and bus/metro to milan central
in plenty of time for our pre-booked train and boat journey
not long after leaving milan we are surrounded by mountains and lakes
a few tunnels and a bridge over lake como before coming into lugano
along the way somewhere passing from italy into swizterland
there's a fenicular railway from the train station to the town proper
so with about 3 hours to kill down we go on this early monday morning
not many people around and the rain is threatening but still lots to see
the town built around the lakeshores a-la queenstown - feels similar
we walk for an hour in one direction before the rain sets in
so a bus back and into the shopping area of the town
nice shops / nice (for them) prices too so looking only
there's a craving for a hot chocolate - found and devoured
we agree the best we've ever had - spooned rather than sipped
catch the fenicular railway back up to lugano train station - bye
we take the first class tickets of the wilhelm tell express
a very modern purpose-built panoramic-glass spacious carriage
it feels like an a380 on a railway track - fast and quiet
glorious views in every direction of rivers, lakes, mountains
the frequent villages and churches distinguishing it from nz
there are full 360 degrees tunnels to reduce/increase height
one long 15km tunnel takes us from italian to german switzerland
a change in weather also while in the tunnel to full sunlight
several hours later we alight at a lakeside town called fluelen
observe a paddle-steamer coming our way and then all aboard
directed to our table for an silver-service lunch of our choice
all the time cruising around lake lucerne and taking it all in
several more hours seeing switzerland from another angle
...them's there houses perched high up in those hills...
all quite beautiful really and a great little side trip
glide into lucerne, alight and walk to our booked hotel
nice little place 15 minutes from all the tourist action
unload and reverse steps back to town and to the old area
typically european really - cobblestones, boutiques, walking
find the jazz club but alas monday is down time - nevermind
roller-blading big in this town - a lot of them are lakeside
we're seeing prices as expensive as warned so a plan hatched
off to the nearest dupermarket and load up with goodies
then head lakeside, pop the bottle of bubbly and picnic on
toast ourselves to making it to yet another idyllic place
and then joined by mamma swan and her brood of 7 swan-lings
they seem to enjoy all we have to offer - pistachio nuts
dusk in lucerne is pretty special on this spring evening
looking across the lake at sunset over the mountains
a wander back over the kapellbrucke (chapel bridge)
lucerne's iconic 14th century bridge over the canal
lots more photo opportunities and then head home
on the way we observe a swarm of roller-bladers
they seem to have taken over the streets tonight
a brilliant day - milan seems so long ago...

milan

there was an urge to see some of italy on this trip
so we picked milan - north and therefore fairly accessible
overnight sleeper trains not a bad experience so that option taken
train from salzburg to munich and then the overnight ex munich to milan
fortunately our 6 berth sleeper only had 4 - us and 2 italian lads
slept quite well actually though a 3 hour stop was disquietening
milan centrale an impressive building and buzzing with people
onto the metro system and a confident ride to our suburb
uh-oh - we are in the 'burbs - things looking quite run down
which could just be a reflection of economically messed up italy
not feeling too fussed about hauling suitcases so a taxi to the hotel
quite nice - clean, modern, friendly - the opposite of outside
a 30 minute walk to confirm first impressions back to the metro
and a very quick trip into town to come up at central again
we've been sold a hop-on hop-off tram ticket - despite reservations
then spend a good hour or so trying to find said tram and starting point
a read of the small print and it's then apparant any tram is the deal
the price paid really to cover the digital voicepack and headphones
finally hop on and head off to the inner city for a look around
our jaws drop when we wander into the galleria vittorio emanuele
a 19th century shopping centre complete with glass roof way up there
4 covered streets intersecting with all the big name brands to be seen
we take lunch and wine at a cafe within the centre - price - oh well
then out into the sunlight to behold the equally impressive duomo
milan's 14th century cathedral - the size and detailing just amazing
we plan a return visit then hit the tram for the on-off circuit
oops - one of us is a tad tired and the lunch wine kicks in
snoozing our way around before getting off at parco semprione
a very pleasant late afternoon walk through the large park
it's taken all day but we finally feel connected to milan
quit while we are ahead - metro home and some planning
saturday - 6 prime locations targetted and route mapped
beautiful day again and the batteries charged for long walks
the duomo is first - audio guide taken and a good hour inside
europe's 3rd largest cathedral apparantly - the columns are ginormous
the stained glass, the crypt, the statues, the altars, the....everything
we agree again every cathedral we have entered is totally unique
next - pinacoteca ambrosiana - art gallery hosting a da vinci collection
line drawings mostly - good but the other serious paintings win it for us
the refectory at the monastery of santa maria delle grazie hosts a famous painting
da vinci's last supper - but - tickets not reserved and this one is a hot-spot
we could book for early june - nope - so our first miss of the whole trip
nevermind - lunch and wine to the rescue and back on the trail
so much fun to be had just walking and observing in this town
we are in the oldest part and not too overrun so very enjoyable
sforza castle is a 14th century fortress that can be entered
we walk through and dwell on the original intended use
4 down and 2 to go - the pinacoteca di brera art gallery first
room after room after room of european masterpieces
every one deserving more than our cursory observation
by the end there's a longing for something more contemporary
galleria d'art moderna should offer that - but only for a room or 2
modern art apparantly can still be several hundred years old
phew - knocked over the list of 6 - happy - now to relax
purchase prosciutto filled baguettes and beer and back to the park
we have our own little picnic in the later summer's day in milan
lots of people out and enjoying the weather also - very nice
early night required so back on the metro with the throngs
saturday night is gearing up so good to be part of that
milan is certainly a people's city and tonight is the night
the metro packed with good-looking and well-dressed young-uns
us (relative) oldies - back at home base planning the next day
which is - a train ride out of the city to a typical small italian town
fidenza it is - main claim to fame - an irresistable outlet shopping centre
most of the day spent checking out all the brand shops there
result - not much - choice limited and prices not so outlet-y
fidenza town itself - small, quiet, gentle, authentic and closed
an iced coffee taken at the town square with some music thrown in
hard to pick it - sounding south america but no doubt local lombardy
complete with line/circle dancing by many locals young and old
the train back to milan, the subway back to our part of the city
trip adviser consulted and a restaurant called woodstock 3 comes up
oh yes - classic italian - pasta/spaghetti and wine ordered
great food, great wine, great atmosphere - very happy
made our last night in milan/italy very special...

salzburg

our personal travel agent has served us well again
vienna - tick - next - milan - but a very long haul
in-between lies salzburg so a day stopover organised
we roll into salzburg station and dump luggage in a locker
locate the information booth for a 10 second consultation
and are pointed in the correct direction with map in hand
we have about 6 hours in this town and another walking plan
very picturesque town/city too - snow-capped mountains in view
home of that huge film from the 60's - loved/hated here no doubt
first point of interest is the local and daily markets
tourists and locals mingling amongst the many stalls
lots of bread, meats, fruit/vege, cheese and pastries
the largest artichokes ever spotted - and chocolate banana cake
we start the eating day in local style and wish we had more time
the markets are next to the impressive main church and gardens
some time spent wandering and soaking up the easy atmosphere
across the river into the old town and more serious shops
small narrow streets and laneways packed with boutiques
the prices indicating a very affluent population
or most likely as it seems a popular tourist town
we limit ourselves to window-shopping and an ice-cream
observe mozart's birthplace and head to the town square
the cathedral is large, cool and as usual very impressive
a simple architectural style with blue/orange frescoes way up
we have a mission as we wander up hill to the fenicular railway
a brief and very steep ride up to the fortress overlooking the town
there's a cafe very strategically placed so beer and pretzels please
followed by an aimless wander around the town on the hill
bastions, dungeons, residences, halls, open areas to see
quite unique really and an hour or so easily soaked up
a pleasant stroll down the walkway to the lower town
we head towards the river and decide a rest is required
so we join the locals riverside on the grass and pass out
it really is a beautiful town - a return trip required
iced coffee is taken at a small streetside cafe
and a wander back to the train station
we manage to get on an earlier train
milan - via munich - here we come...

oh vienna...

about the only thing i knew about vienna was classical music and the danube
and the title of fave genre-defining ultravox album released in 1980
so upon arriving by train from prague it was with quiet excitement
always good to come into a city with little or no expectations
the usual hit-the-ground-running dealing of the city trains
and a few blocks walk to our pre-booked studio apartment
very nice too - large, clean and very comfortable
middle floor, middle tower, middle block, middle class
happy - and better still - walking distance to the city
so unpack and off we head on our first reconnisance there
looking good - sun out, easy walking and so much to observe
the old city walls replaced by a busy bus/tram/car ring road
within that road it's pedestrians that largely have priority
so easy to just wander and then realise how special this place is
turn any corner of any street and it's another oh-wow moment
there's a definite buzz in the air with the summer weather
the local beer tested at a purpose-built platform cafe
looking down at the sun-bakers along the danube canal
our mission today is to secure tickets for a concert
tempted by the mozart-clad hawkers of various shows
but a longing for authenticity means a bit of effort
and then obtaining tickets for staatoper in 2 days time
back home and dinner taken at a local austrian restaurant
the next and first full day is sunny so perfect for our plan
we have a map and suggested walkway to cover all the must-sees
our preference with limited time to do that and select must-visits
first stop - mozarthaus - where the man lived for 3 years
interesting but definitely a commercial tourist trap
on to the neighbouring st stephens (gothic) cathedral
big and impressive - every one is unique in some way
the huge hofburg collection of palaces, museums, etc is next
if we had days/weeks/inclination then this would be the place
we settle on the sisi collection - she the wife of franz joseph 1
a guided tour telling us all about the sad life of this lady
good also to get a handle on the end of the hapsburg dynasty
lunch taken very nicely in a cafe in the burtgarten
hosting a very popular statue of the beloved mozart
our walking tour continues - the modern art quarter
the twin monolithic museums of fine arts and history
then onto musikvien - the home of the vienna philharmonic
vienna central is quite compact - heaps to see but easy to find
we head to the jewish quarter and observe an important monument
a very simple concrete structure honouring 65,000 deaths
but no obvious mention of the austrian man responsible
ice-cream vendors doing very well in the summer weather
we partake - wandering in the area known as the bermuda triangle
shops, restaurants, bars, offering an opportunity to get lost
we agree we feel very safe and at home in this stunning city
time for dinner - we've been walking all day so head home
a local japanese restaurant serves up the cheapest sushi
the second full day we hit the metro to schonbruun
a palace on very large grounds well out of the city
a tour is in order and we immediately sense the similarity
catherine's palace in st petersburg comes to mind
which has us thinking - you've seen one palace...
120,000 people are due here for a concert next week
the vienna philharminic orchestra are the stars
so the huge grounds are already being prepared
bit of an eyesore for us regular tourists
but still a zillion photo opportunities
we spend the afternoon back in the inner city
more quality time at a few already selected points
e.g. standing on top of a platform under a church dome
bit nerve-racking actually - something not right about that
the museum of modern art hosting some very interesting paintings
alongside the usual installations of 1960's tv sets and the like
i have an urge to see the danube river in all its glory
so a metro taken to the international visitors centre
an area where architects have had free licence it seems
a short walk to the river and a greek riverside cafe
sitting in the sun eating fine food and downing beer
one of those pinch-me moments as we look out at the river
but - we have an appointment tonight - not too much time to relax
hit the metro again, head home, shower, best dressed and into the city
staatoper it is - the premium opera house in vienna - and the world?
we have seats in one of the boxes in the first of 5 floors
our own personal digital text streaming device for lyrics
and on stage - 60 voice choir and a full sized orchestra
5 soloists come and go as we witness bellini's norma
a near 3 hour concert of the highest standard
at least the audience seemed to think so
lots of standing ovations and clapping
for us a definite highlight of our trip
opera - yea - i get it - in vienna at least...

prague in 3 days

3 days in prague - not enough really but made the most of it
we arrived at night on the express train from dresden
an easy 3 hour journey mostly following the elba river
passing through small villages and valleys along the way
the usual adjustment to language, etc at prague central
a warning to avoid the rip-off taxis meant some metro riding
coming up at the vitava river and close to our cruise boat digs
we are booked on to the river-boat mv florentian moored in prague
our cabin floor below river level but the large window above water
waking on the first day and a stunning view of river, swans and prague
we're looking out across the river to the imposing sight of prague castle
after breakfast we wander across the bridge and work our way up the hill
map in hand and a list of recommended points of interest to visit
st nicholas church among the first - a huge domed cathedral
beautiful of course - the organ a favourite of w a mozart
carrying on up meduova street towards the prague palace
tourists a-plenty in souvenir shops, cafes, restaurants
some prior reading rating prague as 6th fave city in europe
that from zero at the end of the communist era some 25 years ago
the castle grounds rated number 1 in prague - allow 3 hours
we have a return visit planned so do the wander in 2 hours
huge grounds and timeless views back across to prague
pushing further up hill to the ancient monastery
built in the 11th century and still functioning
the grandeur of it all quite overwhelming really
an easy walk down the hill and across charles bridge
number 2 attraction so lots of tourists enjoying the scene
buskers, artists and jewellery vendors at every few metres
then into the throng of the old town - the place is buzzing
during the day we've spotted a lot of concerts on in town
classical music in particular is part of the culture
and for a largely atheist city a good way to use churches
we have decided to attend a concert by 2 classical guitarists
getting to the venue just on time but sold out so an offer made
half-price if we are happy to sit on the stairs - cushions supplied
done - hmmm - the stairs lead down to and behind the stage
so we sit about 2 metres away as the husband/wife perform
feeling very much part of the exemplary hour's performance
best seats in the house as we watch them and the audience
foot-tapping, photographing, conducting, sleeping, eating
and that from just 1 of them - rude - if she only knew...
dinner taken at a tourist-trap outdoor cafe in the square
not worried - friday night and in a very special place
next day we decide to take part in an old town walking tour
us and 8 romanians with jana our czech guide - should be good
starts well at the astronomical clock - a mind-boggling device
built in the 13th century and still putting on an hourly spectacle
apostles appearing, a gold rooster, various moving figurines
as well as 3 different time, date and sun/moon clocks
for 3 hours jana leads and talks us around the old town
lots of information (too much) and some questionable sights
the rain also sets in so glad to finish and head for lunch
she has pointed out an authentic restaurant for locals
yep - delicious goulash and a duck dish at bargain prices
on with the raincoats and a dash back into the metro
target - another ancient fortress high above the river
great views, another beautiful church, interesting history
we have the place to ourselves but the rain is persistent
so cut it short and tram/walk it back to our home base
nevermind - so far we've been blessed with fine weather
our final day is also on the grey side but we'll take it
a short list of specific sights compiled and targetted
the dancing house - modern architecture amongst the traditional
a river/canal cruise for an hour with an english guide
the john lennon wall - graffiti in the embassy district
then back up to prague castle for ticketed viewing
the st vitus cathedral - literally breathtaking and omg
probably the most beautiful we have seen (since the last)
lots of windows high up make it light and inviting
the stain glass windows all around beyond words
and the sheer scale of it all - unbelievable
built by charles 4 at the peak of his rule
he commanded over most of central europe
so this place the centre of his universe
nearby is the smaller st georges basilica
tonight hosting a concert of classical music
very enjoyable even though it is greatest hits
a familiar walk back to town across the river
find another recommended local restaurant
eat more goulash, drink more local beer
and agree - prague - needs more time...

dresden

5am setting on the alarm clock so the internal one goes off at 4am
complete packing and walk/tram to berlin's central train station
we're on the first train out to prague with a full day stop in dresden
it's a 2 hour journey ripping through the east german countryside
dump the bags into storage, purchase a map and walk to the city
we have had a couple of people mention it is a beautiful place
but my memory tells me it was flattened as part of world war 2
a lot of re-building since then but surely it cannot be authentic
zwinger is the local palace now housing a couple of museums
it seems to have survived the ww2 bombardment quite well
not like the neighbouring opera house that has been rebuilt
impressively though to these eyes it looks centuries old
ditto the main bridge across the river to the new town
a pleasant wander and an opportunity to take it all in
it's all very functional in the real world of the new town
back over another bridge and panoramic views of the city
but i can't get the thoughts of bombardment out of my head
a busker on a cello in a tunnel provides a moving soundtrack
the swan by saint-saens is the piece he informs us as we applaud
we are heading to the green vault museum to view some treasures
it would be easy for apathy to creep in after too many museums
but this one is quite enthralling as each room features a theme
jewellery and ornaments of amber, ivory, gold, silver and bronze
apparantly one of the finest collections in all of europe - nice
next - frauenkirche - the church rebuilt 60 years after the war
a huge single domed building and ornately appointed interior
which had me thinking it must have cost squillions these days
as a contrast a visit to kreuzkirche which survived the bombs
but the superficial damage remains on display in it's huge interior
our visit coinciding with some big, loud, serious organ music
very moving really and and the head again in wartime mode
fortunately there's some live music playing nearby
seems there is a dixie jazz festival on in town
a german outfit on stage playing a known tune
...when the saints go marching in...
mixed feelings about that tune in this place
moving on - prague here we come

berlin part too

today is our last full day in berlin so an early start
we have an 8am appointment at the reichstag for an inspection
google maps and the berlin train system integrate perfectly yet again
the walk to the station, the tram ride and the bus timed to the minute
so we are in the first group of people to go through the security throng
ride the lift to the roof, pick up the english audio guide and start the ascent
german engineering has come up with a unique dome on top of the reichstag
centred between the 4 flag-topped corner towers of this imposing building
a circular ramp to the top is walked while listening to the commentary
plenty of information about various buildings, parks and monuments
we are literally in the hub of the german federal government
so some interesting facts and figures about all that also
but the dome - awesome - engineered to reflect light down
lights up the bundestag (parliament room) that can be observed
completed with a huge revolving sun screen to filter direct sunlight
the view of berlin is also incredible including the 270ha tiergarden park
down and out - we are on a mission - next stop the museum island
5 museums built surrounded by canals - more large ancient buildings
there's nefertiti's bust to be seen - much more besides but a tick for that one
lunch taken at an up-market (waiters) restaurant in a inner-city walking area
then a tram ride to potsdamer platz for more astounding german engineering
but upon arrival we are drawn to a large segment of the berlin wall
left in situ - look and feel - it's a totally poignant memorial
more so after yesterday's potsdam visit where the wall was born
churchill and truman wanting some part of berlin as the spoils of a won war
moving on - the sony centre boasts a huge canopy way up over an open space
creating a large area for wandering regardless of weather conditions

very futuristic feeling - next - the plan is to head to kurfurstendamm
berlin's answer to the champs elysee - but a poster is spotted
seems the berlin festival is on - ai weiwei has an exhibition
he the very respected and prominent chinese contemporary artist
we're close to the venue so the course is set and pay down the euros
evidence is the exhibition - a collection of pieces very anti chinese government
we're feeling very much part of the high-brow set of berlin - temporarily
the shopping strip calls so a pleasant couple of hours walking the walk
lots of expensive shops with not too many shoppers for some reason
our last day in berlin so a good excuse for a special dinner
trip advisor sends us off to a popular upstairs restaurant
berlin food the specialty - meat, potatoes, asparagus, beer
fine dining it is not but an ideal end to this visit
our impressions of this city - totally organised
very easy to get into - but - the people
they do seem less than totally happy
maybe lost their sense of humour
...or something like that...

potsdam

so much to see in berlin it seems wrong to leave town for a day
but - potsdam in brandenburg gets rave reviews so needs a visit
45 minutes by train and we are there before most other people
score tickets for the hop-on hop-off (ho-ho) bus and head off
uh-oh - ho-ho not so good today - german guide not unexpected
but faulty audio equipment means missing most of the commentary
should have hired a couple of bikes - definitely will from here on
first stop - cecilienhof - the last palace built by the royal family
looking more like an english estate with a brown tudor style
it's main claim to fame is the potsdam conference held in 1945
that where churchill, stalin and truman carved up germany
including the division of berlin hence the need for the wall
also where truman received word of the atom bomb good to go
we wander from room to room with an audio guide soaking it up
the office of each of the big 3 is open to peruse - simple rooms
ditto the main conference room complete with original furniture
quite a surreal time standing a few metres from the round table
we both walk out glad and humbled by the experience at this place
potsdam is a huge place - an old and new town, housing, palaces
including sanssouci royal park of particular historical significance
this is where the new palace (neues palais) was built in the 18th century
the surroundings are understated so approaching it is quite an experience
mostly delapidated, baroque in style and adorned with countless statues
so large it is totally intimidating - no doubt symbolic of the prussian empire
frederick the great surely did create a legacy - the upkeep must be enormous
we take the long walk away from the palace and yearn for simplicity
lunch taken at the winemakers cottage now a cafe / restaurant
superb too - white linen, waiters, classical music, great menu
the local potsdamer bier a very nice brew - we are relaxed
consult the map and make a choice from the many options
sansscouci palace - the summer residence of fred the great
much smaller and more inviting than the newer palace
the versailles of germany they say - gardens and fountains
and looking very summery - yellow paint and greenery
the afternoon has slipped by very nicely in this place
a day does not do justice to potsdam - we was warned
but feeling very content with what has been discovered
back to home base on the amazing berlin train system
do as the locals and obtain dinner/drinks from a kiosk
and a quiet night in to catch breath and do e-deeds
tomorrow - dig deeper into berlin for the last day...

berlin by bike

cruise - done - left the boat behind in kiel yesterday
a fast train to berlin via hamburg - fast, easy, comfortable
reality bites - glide into berlin central station and take it on
we're lugging 2 large suitcases, 2 backpacks, 2 smaller bags
we know no german and all we have is an address for a hotel
google maps comes up with a route questioned by the info booth
we go with the human - find the platform for the required suburban train
tickets are then the issue - we fail negotiations with the ticket vending machine
our party of 2 then splits - 1 in luggage minding mode - the other sourcing tickets
we get on the required train and head south east - eastern berlin is our home
a taxi from station to hotel selected with the driver well aware of our digs
3 large grey high-rise hotels under common management
very bleak looking but our room is just dandy
sunday evening spent on the tram system
and a wander around freidrichshain
a kind of bohemian area in east berlin
it feels good - authentic - we like this city
monday - tram system mastered - sightseeing
there's a lot of points of interest in central berlin
considered a walking tour but the distances are long
so we have agreed on a 5 hour bike tour from 11am to 4pm
it's an easy tram journey into alexanderplatz - peak hour no problem
ditto finding the base for the bike tour - we are well early so off for coffee
upon return we are acquainted with randall our australian guide and bikes
he has a keen sense of humour and gets us relaxed and excited quickly
peddling off and it becomes apparant that berlin and bikes mix well
there's no helmets, some bike lanes and co-operative car drivers
within a few hundred meters i have been party to some mad riding
we traverse footpaths and roads and weave in and out of traffic
as with everyone else though red/and green lights are strictly obeyed
respect for all road users seems to cut across regardless of mode
the emphasis of this bike tour is to cover all the main spots
the book-burning, checkpoint charlie, the wall, the bunker
the reichstag, the victory column, museums, memorials
and the huge botannical gardens and a german lunch
5 hours flashed by and feeling well familiar now
so the evening spent traversing east to west
there's a jazz club called quasimodo
but no music tonight - cancelled
have to eat more german food
and the return journey home
berlin - love this city...

bornholm

the last full day on the costa cruise of the northern capitals
today not so much a capital but a large island called bornholm
part of denmark and a popular holiday destination for scandanavians
there are no mooring facilities for a large cruise ship at nexo
so we're piling into the lifeboats (tenders) and transported ashore
these craft are fully enclosed and can comfortably hold 80 people
a large logistical exercise to get all interested passengers over
once ashore it becomes apparent the town of nexo is apathetic
nobody to be seen offering anything least of all any transport
most shops closed and only one tiny cafe open - no pub in sight
the perplexed boat people jay-walking to the ire of the locals
some initiative required so some advice sought from the chemist
he points us in the direction of the anonymous information centre
they in turn direct us to the local marine goods supply store
and yes - thankfully - they do have some bicycles for hire
10 euro each and off we go - firstly south-west along the coast
it's been a while but it's true what they say about riding a bike
these ones are built for comfort including a forward mounted basket
even better - being part of denmark - cycle paths everywhere
we soon spot a cafe/smokehouse so pull in for a beer/coffee
first impressions - nice place - very clean, tidy and gentle
feeling confident enough on the bikes now to head inland
uphill but nothing too strenuous as we now go rural
past farms and large paddocks of crops and flowers
not a person or vehicle to be seen - feels deserted
suggesting even the houses out of town are for holidays
our map leads us safely around the road surrounding nexo
we cruise back downhill and see the queue for the return journey
a full 2 hours before required so it seems most have got bored
not much action in this town for those used to having it on demand
we now head north skirting the coast on a purpose built bike track
stopping at anything that catches our eye - a church, a beach, houses
there's more evidence of domestic bliss here too - but no recognition
not even a nod, wave or smile from any locals - we are obviously tourists
oh well nevermind - moving on - we're enjoying being pushbike tourists
a cruise to the next coastal town and back and then into the port
the queue is still too long so after abandoning bikes find a cafe
knock back a beer and then wait for the queue to shrink
last on board the last tender and back to the ship
bornholm - be happy to come back one day
a month or 2 of solitary confinement
i'd also be avoiding tourists
wonder why the visit today
all good - over and out...

gdansk

a grey old day as we dock at the polish port of gdynia
it's also very industrial so the expectations are not high
plan is to taxi to the town centre then catch a train to gdansk
we walk past the many excursion buses and into the taxi driver rabble
we resist one then accept the offer of a fixed price go anywhere full day hire
into the back seat of the s series mercedes benz with stephan in charge
his english is limited and makes some assumptions about our interests
a number of very impressive looking shopping centres are pointed out
as are the dealerships for every known european car marque
one point taken though - this place seems to be bouyant
we are feeling quite comfortable with our choice of transport
set controls for an outer suburb of gdansk called oliwa
research suggesting the cathedral there well worth a visit
get the timing right and there's an organ recital to savour
we're an hour early so plenty of time to investigate in and out
inside - simple plastered brick construction - very tall and long
prayer rooms, the confession booth, a surrounding passageway
pope jean paul 2 honoured - of course - he was polish
there's paintings, sculptures, flags bearing coat-of-arms
outside - the cathedral backs onto a beautiful park/domain
grounds for the neighbouring palace and now national museum
easy to fill in time until the scheduled organ recital
beautiful gardens, ponds, waterfalls, bird-life, etc
back in the cathedral the place has filled up
the large organ at the rear bursts into life
the hallelujah chorus and 5 other tunes played
there's angels playing coronets and other movement
so a visual as well as an aural treat - necks are craned
the final tune brings in an organ at the front of the church
we're hearing loud and energetic organ music in stereo - very nice
20 minutes of recital and back into the merc and delivery to old town gdansk
map in hand and a bit of wheel-spinning then traction and we are off
following a recommended walking trail through the heart of town
starts at the ancient gate, down the main street and out the other end
an hour or so spent soaking it all up - we can feel the history
overcast, brisk, busy, so much to look at and read about
we pass under an archway housing lech walensa's office
hang a left and grab a fried smoked cheese delicacy - yum
along a canal to the crane - an huge ancient ship building pulley
powered by a couple of large wheels driven by humans in hamster mode
then on to st bridget's cathedral to view the famous amber virgin mary
back to the starting point of our walk and into st mary's cathedral
this place is unbelievably large - it can hold 25,000 people
the pillars reach up and up and up - likewise the stained glass windows
there's an option to take the 400 steps up to the top of the bell tower
an initial claustrophobic climb up a very narrow circular granite staircase
before opening out into a darkened wooden stair well inside the main tower
a little bit scary actually - the hunchback of notre dame comes to mind
but it's all worth it as we come out on top and look out over gdansk
pick out the various places we have already visited and snap photos
descend and collapse into the back seat of our chauffered limo/taxi
friday afternoon traffic now in place so a slow ride to the shipyards
kaput now according to stephan but the solidarity monument is there
we pay our respects to lech and the workers then head out of gdnask
there's time for a cruise around the streets of the seaside resort of sopot
a popular summer destination for the richer europeans it would appear
plenty of brand name hotels, tennis clubs, restaurants and large homes
we dip out toes into the baltic sea washing up on the sandy beach
then it's a bit of a rush trip back to the cruise ship
our driver (or us) out by an hour on delivery time
a stroll back on board and agreeing - great day
gdansk will require a return trip - some time

klaipeda

we are on a cruise taking in the northern capitals
klaipeda happens to be on the northern coast of lithuania
not exactly the capital of the country but it has a port so close enough
good sign as we disembark - a beautiful day and a welcoming party is dockside
a 5 piece band sounding like authentic local folk music - bass clarinet included
we take the short walk to the old town and find it small, closed and underwhelming
no worries - plan a kicks into action - find a taxi, negotiate a price and head off
we're on a 30km trip out of town to a seaside resort called palanga
during the journey val our native lithuanian driver is questioned
he says things in this part of his country are very, very bad
seems government corruption is rife as they hog the money
nothing available for the ordinary people or economy
we ask maybe things were better as part of the ussr
nope - things then were very, very, very bad
so at least a small improvement since then
so maybe membership of the e u is the answer
negative - rich countries suck off the local workers
klaipeda used to have 300,000 residents - now only 190,000
so it's all a bit doomy amd gloomy - mercifully it's a short journey
we arrive at palanga and are pointed to the park we have been recommended
it's a pleasant walk to the modest classical palace in the large grounds
uh-oh - closed - summer is coming and so too the tourists - renovations
luckily the amber museum is still open in the basement area
fascinating - plenty of examples of insects, etc embalmed in amber
re-trace steps, a drive through the small town and head back
stopping off at a path leading to a cliff-top view of the baltic sea
quite pretty with the path surrounded by high trees so like an avenue
we stand atop the cliff-top staring out at finland - or in that direction
photos taken then val suggests another spot that is very pretty
a drive of a few kilometres through some run down suburbs
park the taxi and walk along a barb-wire compound
val points out a delapidated tower that the russians used
during the occupation days to watch over the next door beach
our destination is a point next to the channel we sailed through
pretty - no but as a way to highlight the abandonment here - good
we have run the course with val so ask for delivery to the ferry terminal
the plan is to get across to the curonian peninsula and do some bird-watching
oops - he thinks ferry = boat so we are back at the ship - thanks - see ya
a brisk walk to the ferry and scramble aboard for the 10 minute channel crossing
the peninsula is a unesco-listed world heritage site due to it's bird life
a popular stopping point for migratory birds of all sizes it seems
it's very thin and very long - a 25km walk, bike, taxi, bus or buggy ride
our options are limited as we are not carrying any local currency
so decide on an amble across to the beach-side of the peninsula
lovely - in the shade of trees, birds singing, few people
hit the beach - nice enough but aramoana beach it is not
the view of large oil tanks at one end not so appealing
a long walk to the ornothological point is declined
our tummies are starting to complain so back we go
time to sample some local food at a canal-side cafe
it's a long wait for beer and/or food but the sun is out
herrings with potatoes and potato and bacon dumplings served up
a wander back through the old town and centre square markets
quiet reflection at the hotel balcony where adolf hitler once stood
proclaiming german sovereignity over the country of lithuania
followed by the russians, the e u and now we boat people
fortunately for us we just get back on board and depart
leaving behind a town that seems to be struggling
maybe they are happy but not much sign of that
next stop poland - gulp - same again?

riga

an early morning cruise up the long and wide river to riga
it's a grey day in latvia and rainjackets are on as we head off
the plan is to first do the circuit on the hop-on hop-off bus
get a handle on the layout of the city and then target some points
not a good sign as the bus seems to take an age to fill and head off
then the first stop is the centre of town and another long delay
so in 30 minutes or so we have covered only a few hundred metres
and endured repeat plays of the welcome message on the audio system
tempting to jump off and do it all on foot but we have made a plan
so we stay with it and snake our way around riga on the double decker
the pre-recorded audio system is more about endurance than information
between the announcements a segment of electronica music is on repeat play
it gets a bit tedious fairly quickly and heavily outweighs the spoken info
but some interesting facts are picked up and parked in the memory banks
riga/latvia has had a long history of invaders/occupiers to cope with
sweden, poland, germany and the ussr have all had their time here
the german occupation quite prominent with memorials for the purged jews
an ugly tall brick building built by the germans for an admin centre
a large metallic statue on the riverfront a hangover of the soviet days
the commentary tries to talk up the architecture of various strips
riga is known for it's art nouveau buildings but not to these eyes
as we do the final hop-off we agree that the tour has not worked
apart from the central markets nothing we saw demands a re-visit
so grab a map and we go into cruise mode as we have a full day
within a few minutes on foot we have done a figurative u turn
pounding it out on cobblestone streets is a positive thing
most of the walkers we see are also fellow boat people
which makes me think this place is under seige again
with the upsurge in cruise trips there has to be an effect
in this city it seems many tourist traps are being tarted up
the need no doubt to catch the incoming money in some manner
we have learnt that the big name sights are not the best
much better for us at least to get down and amongst it
map in hand, a target in mind and just simply wander
we see a collection of rocks/metal as animal themed sculptures
a street stall offering the most delicious eclairs for 1 euro
asking a local for directions also yields a fun result
mention new zealand and he goes into raptures
he was a member of the national volleyball team
they played nz in a world championship and watched a dance
haka - when we finally figured it out back-slapping all round
he points us in the right direction and we part ways laughing
we drift into the art nouveau district and admire some buildings
but in general the feeling is this place has no clear personality
they say that riga is the paris of the north - not sure about that
at least on this grey day when all the outdoor cafes are empty
we need some local action so best way for that - food
so we decide to walk the distance to the local markets
5 very imposing buildings purpose built early last century
their role being as hangars for the then new zeppelin craft
once inside it is easy to imagine the craft under the arched roof
but now each hangar is crammed with vendors of like products
the first one we go into is dedicated to seafood - woo-hoo
it smells great and looks better - so much on offer
smoked seems to be a local favourite - everything
some herrings and caviar purchased and more resisted
4 more hangars - fruit/vege, meat/poultry, baking, clothing
strawberries purchased and also some latvia flat bread
a warning of pick-pockets constantly in mind as we wander
in people-watching mode and this is clearly grass roots stuff
we emerge feeling quite connected with the locals - good
time for a coffee/salad/wifi at a inner city cafe
then back on the hop-on hop-off bus to the ship
riga - kind of liked it but not all the way
a sunny day would have been a big plus
still - they can't all be 5 star
good to get our feet in latvia
next - lithuania

tallinn

back in the old u s s r - tallinn in estonia our port today
the cruise into the second half and a change in focus
we have visited and enjoyed big name big city ports
for the next 4 days they will be relatively unknown
with that expectations are low - a good place to be
a leisurely amble off the boat and along the jetty
a perfect blue sky and a warming sun to greet us
we only have 4 hours and a walking plan in place
as we enter the walls of the old city we are delighted
it looks so good - a few people around and low key it is
this is the urban europe we love - a modern city in ancient buildings
in this case it's all narrow cobblestone streets, houses and the city wall
there's a few cars around but they seem to keep out of the way of pedestrians
this place is so photogenic in the morning sun so the camera is in overdrive
we have 7 points of interest to make contact with in the old city
no time (or inclination) to go beyond the walls to the new city
the map in hand and clear street names makes the navigation easy
at an early point we clamber up a narrow staircase
come out to a wooden walkway along the city wall
catch breath, admire the view and the well placed cafe
there's a higher viewing platform indicated on the map
so we take a granite staircase up to toompea hill
and find ourselves in an elevated part of the old city
a cafe advertising hot wine too much to resist so in we go
joy - it's a small underground cafe/bar expertly set up
subtle lighting and music and fresh goodies on offer
next door a souvenir shop offering reasonably priced jewellery
we part with some euros and continue the mini expedition
the cathedral of saint mary the virgin is open for inspection
compared to what we have seen in st petersburg it is low key
but no less impressive in it's historical significance
and clearly a place of pride for the local population
the estonian houses of parliament are nearby
we are standing outside them without realising
a large pink building that also seems understated
the flag on top confirming it's political significance
a beautiful setting with a park, gardens and tall trees
the russian orthodox church looking glorious in the sunlight
we descend back into the old town and head to the town square
it's bathed in sun and the cafes on the edge are doing well
we take up the offer and park ourselves at one of them
observing the scene in front of us and appreciating it
it's all quite timeless - happy and relaxed people
locals, families and tourists enjoying the sun
no cars, traffic lights, smartphones in sight
a few more points of interest left so walking on
very much enjoying the amble in this gentle place
time taken to inspect some markets under the city wall
dedicated to wool - jumpers, scarves, hats, mittens, etc
looking very much as though hand-crafted by the lady vendors
we wind our way back to the point we entered the old city
on the way discussing the pleasure of our time in tallinn
definitely high on the list of must-return-destinations
but for now we have to get back on to our transport
the vessel has an early afternoon departure
an opportunity to spend some time relaxing
this travelling thing is quite tiring
but as per hans christian anderson
or at least our copenhagen guide
to travel - is to live...

st petersburg out

deja vu time as we exit the boat and hook up with our tour group
pile into the mercedes minivan and head back into the city
a normal workday today so traffic has increased significantly
first up is a canal trip - we have our own boat and driver
it's a low barge-like vessel purpose-built for the low bridges
luba providing her expert commentary as we navigate the canals
the neva river is very wide and diverse with many channels
from ground/water height it is difficult to work out the layout
many turns taken and the oft stated comparison to venice obvious
but on a larger scale - higher, wider, longer, taller, etc, etc
we pass by numerous palaces, government buildings, parks and houses
perception - st petersburg has the potential to be a stunning city
but it feels a bit underdone - like a thin layer of grime everywhere
i suspect that is the soviet hangover that they are working hard at displacing
luba also reminds us the weather is very average - 60 days of sun a year
but the long winter and snow-covered ground has it's own beauty
will take her word for that and make assessment at some future time
we jump off the boat and then it's another public transport experience
the metro - this is going to be good - built in the 1950's down deep
we descend a single long escalator to the station 80 metres underground
the place is a museum in it's own right - marble and granite construction
spotlessly clean with references to the revolution everywhere
hammer and sickle ornamentation, statues of workers, soldiers, lenin
the whole system of over 80 stations was built in a single year
and the architecture and decor retained though no stalin references
the train itself is also clean though showing it's age in other ways
it takes a while to lumber up to speed and then it rolls around a lot
suggesting the engines and suspension are in need of updating
otherwise a fascinating experience - the escalator up opportunistic
a look at the faces of the commuters confirming a worldwide standard
commuting is mind-numbing stuff - our russian comrades are not happy
let's keep moving - our minibus is set on a northern destination
along the way we pass memorials to the terrible seige of world war 2
the nazis spending 900 days surrounding the city and starving the population
1 million city residents perished - luba quite emotional as she tells us this
hard to imagine the suffering today of course but a poignant moment nonetheless
our destination is peterhof - a summer palace for peter the great
beautiful gardens and many fountains to behold on this spring day
sadly the nazis occupied this place and all but destroyed it
so a lot of rebuilding done or underway to return it to former glory
lunch - another takeover of a local restaurant - and a shot of vodka
then the final point on our 2 day deluxe tour of st petersburg
catherine's summer palace - and home of the famous amber room
we arrive as the rain sets in so take brief refuge in a church
there's a service underway - oops - and a funeral in fact
russian orthodox style - good to see but not over-staying
a dash through the rain to the palace and join the queue
our guide once again wields her influence and we jump
we don our slippers and start the tour of the palace
palace = big home - this one is unsurprisingly huge
room after room of artwork, furniture and decor
the amber room is a little bit underwhelming
apparantly the nazis stripped the original panels
so the cashed-up russian govt has spent 10 million euros
putting in place amber panels as close to the original as possible
impressive - but - it sets the tone for a lot of what we see here
it looks really good but it feels less than fully authentic
the crowds adding to the almost theme-park feel to it all
2 days of full-on tourist hot-spot visiting has taken a toll
but no complaints - we have seen some totally amazing sights
we have a near 2 hour journey back to the waiting cruise ship
lots of questions from us the tourists and luba the local
a good opportunity to exchange ideas and perceptions
an almost sad farewell to our exceptional guide
and not long after we set sail from russia
it will need another visit - some time...

st petersburg in

a couple of great days have been had in scandanavia
then an overnight sail pushing further east to russia
clock forward an hour so what feels like a very early start
there's a bit of argy-bargy this time to get off the boat
and a bit of anxiety in the queue for russian immigration
the warnings being they take their jobs seriously so go with it
we've organised our own tour on land - a 2 day deluxe package
7 other people from the cruise have taken the same initiative
all americans so good to be amongst other english speakers
we are met by our tour guide luba and the driver andrei
into the near-new (smelling) mercedes mini-van and we're off
it's the last day of a 4 day weekend so the streets are quiet
and a relatively quick trip to a hotel to pick up 2 more tourists
luba keeps up a constant naming of landmark buildings and bridges
everything is wide and flat - most buildings are 2 or 3 levels high
hard to get a grip on it actually - it's all a bit un-inviting
our first stop is a coffee/souvenir shop and the vodka is on offer
seems churlish to refuse so that is taken and warms things up
the first item on the tour agenda is the famous hermitage museum
my mind's eye has a clear vision of it thanks to russian ark
that fabulous film from a few years back filmed in 1 take
as the central character wanders from room to room
and scenes reminiscent of days gone by are portrayed
no disappointment - in this case reality matches perception
the walk up the grand main staircase in particular spine-tingling
this place is grand - and the timing of our visit is perfect
luba has got us in an hour before the place officially opens
and she is an obvious expert so we are very well informed
there are 24 miles of corridors and 1 minute per piece = 8 years
in 2 hours we see the major pieces/rooms and are well satisfied
for me it feels like mission accomplished - it's all bonus from now on
the crowds are building as we exit into the grounds of the winter palace
a huge central square now used for rallies, concerts and military displays
well settling into the rhythm of it all now as lunch is taken
off to a local restaurant that our group of 13 takes over
we have a fairly hectic schedule for the remainder of the day
first stop is the oddly named church on our saviour of spilled blood
a russian orthodox church with multi-coloured onion-shape domes
completed early last century and spared by the bolsheviks
inside - every wall covered in dazzling colourful mosaics
similarly on the ceiling of the high domes - beautiful
the camera is given a good workout - so much to take in
similarly outside - from every angle it is stunning
but wait - there's more - off to st isaacs cathedral
next to the neva river and the symbolic heart of the city
they say everything in st petersburg is done on a large scale
this place is mind-boggling in it's scale and granduer
a single central dome with a dove painted high up on the ceiling
lots more neck-craning and finger-pressing - we are dazed
in the form of relief the next stop is the modest yusupov palace
modesty being a relative thing in the home of this aristocratic family
this is the scene of the murder of rasputin in the basement
there are mannequins in place depicting that historical moment
the palace itself large but not at all ostentatious
compared at least to the 3 prior visits on this day
we are treated to some exemplary russian accapella
a 5 piece group of male singers coincidentally named the arc
then back into our bus and we are thinking it's home time
nope - there's time to fit in another cathedral visit (abc)
the peter and paul cathedral on the other side of the neva
we're all feeling a bit jaded so this one seems superfluous
at least until we get inside and realise it's significance
this is the final resting place for most of russia's monarchy
15 or so tombs - marble shaped boxes - sitting on the floor inside
each with the required headstone and within easy reach for a touch
no need and no desire - a very sombre and significant place
we stagger on to the bus and are delivered back to the ship
oh what a day - we are in serious tourist mode in this city
so much to see and just as well we have another full day
we originally thought we'd enjoy this portside night out
catch a ballet, some jazz or visit a restaurant
but no chance - dinner on board and then lights out

helsinki

yesterday's self-guided tour of stockholm was successful
so the plan is to do it again today and avoid excursions
ship organised trips seeming too controlled and crowded
we're first off the boat again at the port of helsinki
all looking quite industrial and a 30 minute hike required
but it's cold and there's a few flurries of white stuff falling
so a quick decision taken to jump on a local hop-on hop-off bus
funny how these things work out as an hour later we are more informed
we have done a circuit of the inner city and listened to a commentary
bypassing major public buildings, monuments, parks and the olympic stadium
we alight at senate square in the heart of the city and start our walk proper
up the granite steps of the large lutheran cathedral that overlooks the city
taking note of the silence-please sign we once again are staring up in awe
it would be easy to tire of cathedrals in europe but that would be a mistake
every one is different and technicalities alone means respect is required
this one has huge central columns and intricate ceiling artwork
it is also a working church and lighting of candles invited
a very calming start to our planned trek around helsinki
fortunately the weather has improved so we head to the markets
research indicating that there's all sorts of authentic goods on offer
it's a cold saturday morning with plenty of stalls but not many people
strolling around it does seem as promised - locally crafted products
knitted garments, fur-skin hats, souvenirs carved from antlers, artwork
prices are reasonable and sellers seem in need but we are limited
space our biggest problem so we pick up a hat and scarf
then move on to the section that holds most interest for us
food - fish mostly - smoked, marinated, fried - irresistible
calamari and crumbed whole anchovies with garlic sauce bought
done our bit for the local economy so we consult the map and walk
a very pleasurable wander in the impressive city centre
architecturally consistent buildings, a wide avenue, fountains
well labelled road names so easy to keep direction vaguely correct
there's a very orderly protest underway (ukraine?) near parliament house
a cafe next door delivers up the required irish coffee and wi-fi
map consulted and a wander amongst obvious inner-city apartments
we arrive at the stone church 10 minutes before it is due to open
not much known about this landmark so a clamber outside is taken
curious - all we can see is a low dome and a circular wall of boulders
at the front door there is applause as a wedding party emerges
we join in then move underground as the doors are thrown open
omg - this place is s-t-u-n-n-i-n-g - modern and unique
the roof a large dome of narrow circular copper strips
concrete beams intersecting it and atop surrounding glass
full rock and boulders making up the high floor to window walls
me quietly thinking that the modern church needs these modern buildings
we emerge in awe and thankful of the experience of the wedding and building
next stop - sibelius monument - we could bus it but decide to hoof it
we are delving deeper into suburban helsinki which is not a bad thing
a chance to observe normal life - a soccer match, homes, people out walking
the monument is well worth the effort - 30 tonnes of welded metal pipes
all held up by 3 central supports and room to walk underneath
time is moving on and a boat not to be missed so taxi time
into the backseat of the hybrid electric/diesel mercedes
an experience in itself as we are taken into the city
back on the hop-on hop-off bus, to port and all aboard
phew made it - saturday night on board
dinner, music, dancing, relaxing
happy day...

stockholm

we asked for an early morning wake-up call - 6:30am
but the internal alarm went off much earlier at 4
there's a hint of daylight so on with lots of clothes and up we go
come out on the top deck and oh wow - we are in the swedish fjords
it's c-o-l-d but clear and the sun is peaking over the horizon
we are heading due west so park ourselves at the rear of the boat
initially outside but then taking up seats behind the rear panoramic windows
what a treat - sun is rising directly behind - left and right - islands, etc
some expert navigation going on with this very large vessel
at points we are within less than 100 metres of land
so much to see - large houses, ferry crossings, small villages
we are also being trailed by another vessel off in the distance
the top decks are empty apart from a couple of other insomniacs
so an opportunity to get in some early day photos
the earliest breakfast possible and gear up
it's a sunny day but only 3 degrees out
we are the first off the boat and hoofing it
a decision to avoid the ship-organised excursions
do our own thing - everything suggests very rewarding
the waiting tour operators seem resigned to our choice
it's a 30 minute hike into the old part of town - gamla stan
a sense of anticipation in this new city for both of us
nothing open in the old town but appreciated otherwise
ditto at the neighbouring palace - too early for entry
a check of the map in hand confirming our direction
and a walk down to the water and take in the view
looking good - stockholm is built on 14 islands
so pretty well water to see in every direction
buildings hugging the shore line or low hills
the town hall the most impressive of all
it looks quite simple in design but it is huge
as we get closer we agree a guided tour is on
a good bit of timing means we have a 5 minute wait
then we head off on a very informtive tour
8 million bricks used in this 20th century building
the annual host to the nobel prizes on the 10th of december
the architect insisting in contrasts to maintain interest
so every space we enter has a new and dominant feature
whether in colour, size, material, design or use
the council chamber itself simple but impressive
our guide informing us of the gender balance
and the transparency of all council matters
the golden hall features 40,000 golden tiles
a beautiful feature wall historically significant
the lady of the lake protecting stockholm
the west on one side the east on the other
representing sweden's chosen neutrality in ww1
as we leave a sense of we have seen enough
anything else on this day in this place a bonus
we are in walking mode/mood so along a canal we go
a vague sense of destination in mind but happy to wander
this place feels good and no fear of being lost, etc
almost by accident we come across a shopping area
thankfully not a centre but ye olde world style
specialist shops and cafes in car-less streets
the locals out and enjoying their new spring
and we also happy to amble and soak it up
a light lunch and wi-fi connect at a simple cafe
then back to the palace via parliament house
as with copenhagen we are struck by the lack of security
there just does not seem to be the need for paranoia
the suspicion that politicians are serving not elevated
unfortunately (possibly not) the palace is overrun
so we decide to pass on the tour and head to the ferry
across to the island of djurgarden for some sight-seeing
first the vass musuem housing the 16th century vessel of the same name
but it too has a large queue - possibly due to the 4 cruise ships in town
pass - next stop - the nordic museum - doesn't believe in queues
so we enjoy an hour wandering through the 4 floors of culture
back onto a ferry that allows disembarkation next to our boat
so back in plenty of time for casting off at dinner time
the muscles a bit sore so the spa on top deck beckons
it's a bit brisk in the evening but the water is hot
watching the sun sink as we pass through the fjords
sweden - spa - sunset - surreal - very happy...