wangi falls (litchfield)

we're up with the birds at hayes creek caravan park
our campervan one of quite a few nestled under the trees
one of the better caravan parks we have had - very pleasant
breakfast is bypassed in favour of getting an early departure
we hit the stuart highway again heading north to adelaide river
upon arrival we spot some roadside sunday morning markets
a few arts and crafts stalls - and a trailer offering frozen seafood
fresh is best - further up the road we take a left turn to batchelor
and get some advice at a visitors centre set up in a container
map in hand we then plunge on into litchfield national park
first stop is a site of multiple large and live termite mounds
a loud guide providing interesting details of the constructions
then onwards with a plan to head to the northern end of the park
another hot day and a yearning to find some more swimming pools
first stop is coopers creek and we gear up for a 30 minute hike
a single lane path follows the creek then up now familiar terrain
shale, boulders and gravel repeatedly traversed amongst the trees
it is hot - hats, sunglasses and sunscreen combining to protect us
arrival at the small but deep pool a relief and we take the plunge
the pool fed by a small waterfall and a few other tourists indulging
as is a metre long water monitor lizard - and click go the cameras
feeling good and a re-trace of our steps, into the van and head south
next stop - cascades - a promise of a series of pools and waterfalls
we elect to take the long path to the upper cascades - quite a trek
we get up quite high with some stunning views of litchfield park
the terrain, fauna and waterways explaining why it is a national park
it's quite hard going in the heat over the scarred and hostile terrain
but as we descend to the stream the lure of cool water is rewarding
in we go - the volume of water flowing does seem to be quite low
the width of the bed of the stream suggesting it copes with floods
and thus easy to imagine in the wet season it would be dangerous
but we are lucky - we can gently work our way down the rocks
several more pools found and entered then it's curtain falls
so named as the stream plunges over a long circular formation
it is possible to go behind the falling water from the pool below
more fun had and then we head further down the rainforest
stunningly beautiful scenery - so glad we came to this point
but wait - there's more - wangi falls - the most popular here
no trek involved so there's plenty of day tourists and campers
first job is to secure a parking spot requiring some argy-bargy
some people just not happy about sharing adjacent parking spots
when all sorted we take the short walk to the wangi falls proper
jaw-dropping - a huge pool fed by 2 x 100 metre plus waterfalls
very civilised steps and rail providing a very gentle entry point
but we resist - initially - there's a bottle of champers to be downed
a walk to a lookout point above the tree line in a tree house structure
down she goes (the plonk) and more pinch-me moments at this time
back we go - and in we go - a gentle swim across to the waterfalls
it's getting past sundown and there's a near full moon up in the sky
possibly explaining the decision to go not-fat dipping in this place
and it just does not get any better - especially under the largest fall
we work our way back and head back to the campervan for food
eaten out under the stars and full moon in this pristine place
sensational day - again - we are so, so lucky to be here...

maguk (kakadu)

yes - oops - a bit of a restful night with an induced headache
dawn a long time coming but it's arrival welcomed and into it
a healthy breakfast conjured and consumed seated in campchairs
departure soon after with a mental note for a future return to cooinda
the facilities on offer here ideal for a more intense 4wd expedition
today there is a simmering urge to plunge into some pristine water
days of 30+ degrees and a head needing a fix forcing the issue
we have determined maguk gorge is the first stop for the day
it sits at the end of an unsealed road notionally for 4wd vehicles
but we have been encouraged to take it on and it is only 10km
there's also a campsight at road's end so technically it is legal
our rental contract in mind with the agreed driving restrictions
hanging a left off kakadu highway and we hit the red dirt road
the corrugations start instantly - driving at speed kind of works
but when it doesn't our whole vehicle shudders and complains
so the mode of operation then a slow pace camped well in the left
which leaves plenty of room for the 4wd posers to power past us
no issue - we're enjoying the view of red road, greenery and blue sky
halfway along we manipulate our way through a now dry floodway
clearly we should not be here but we push on - and on - it's a long 10km
just as we consider a u-turn a sign indicates the campground is close
and then finally we enter the car-park dominated by 4wd vehicles
we play photographer for a bunch of seriously geared-up hikers
then with a backpack loaded with food and water we hit the trail
a sign advises it is a 90 minute round trip to the plunge pool
an easy start through a mini rainforest of nz like conditions
though warnings of crocodiles reminding us where we are
the path winds it's way along a stream of the clearest water
it's quite rough going at times and concentration is required
easy to lose footage with water or sand on large smooth rocks
and then - a clearing - a few people - and a stunning sight
we gape at a huge pool surrounded by rocky cliffs on 3 sides
green bush at our end and a 50 metre waterfall at the other end
we find a isolated spot on a large rock and plunge into the pool
it is refreshingly cool and we work our way to the waterfall
it is also very long and deep with no bottom in sight at times
even duck-diving with goggles on just reveals a blackness
there's something special about being pounded by a waterfall
possibly the best headache (hangover) cure known to this man
we work our way back to base camp and indulge in a snack
and exchange friendly greetings with other in-awe visitors
another swim taken as a full circumference of the pool
and then the return journey with a promise to return
the dirt road back out now seems an easier negotiate
though a good feeling to get back on kakadu highway
we have decided to now head to litchfield national park
a stopover taken at the historic railway town of pine creek
hot, hot, hot - and a beating sun with lunch under shade
then back on the stuart highway due north to hayes creek
a classic roadhouse with a caravan park down the hill
pull in, set up and take an advised wander to the creek
then beyond to butterfly gap - a clearing in the rocky cliffs
as we enter we are engulfed by a swarm of - yes - butterflies
there must be thousands of them as we work our way up
we agree it feels like the scene from some fantasy film
quite surreal really and a totally unexpected surprise
back to the campervan and a meal consumed outside
another superb day - and tomorrow - litchfield park...

cooindi (kakadu)

very happy to leave merl campground behind us - mozzie city
back to ubirr for a leisurely stroll around the base of the huge rocks
examples of aboriginal rock art from eons ago is in touching distance
thankfully given some interpretation on signs - a fine outdoor museum
we've gone as far east as we can in kakadu so double back to jabiru
the town of significant recent historical importance - uranium mining
ranger mine is nearby and 1980's protests to an expansion comes to mind
the town of jabiru is underwhelming - small, suburban and well - functional
a wander round and a healthy population of original inhabitants in town also
the main feature is the large crocodile hotel built in the shape of it's namesake
it does look like some architect has had free licence to create something unique
kind of strange - big and imposing - but not at all inviting so we take a pass
at the nearby visitor's centre we are given some more must-visit advice
our vehicle is a 2wd campervan - some roads require 4wd so are no-go
we agree on the days activities and drive for an hour or 2 south-west
nourlangie rock is the target but nothing too imposing in the car park
it's a 15 minute walk we are told and so we head off through the scrub
up a few steps, turn a corner and oh wow - yet another sight to behold
a huge sloping red surface of what looks like pebbles of a dry riverbed
these held in some kind of hardened substance - lava comes to mind
up we go and from the highest point it's another breath-taking view
beyond the rock it's the greenness of low-lying trees on the wetlands
a bright blue sky beyond that and again the comment - only in australia
we have back-packed a light lunch up so indulge before then descending
happy with that stopover and a decision to get tonight's campsight sorted
we arrive at cooinda lodge which seems to be the centre of universe kakadu
all facilities at hand and a lot of people making this place home it seems
we manage to snag a powered site and happily set up and take a wander
nice-looking cabins, a swimming pool, large cafe, shop, petrol station
we then pile onto the (full) courtesy bus and are driven to yellow water
crikey - tourist central - there are 5 flat bottom boats each seating 50
we are 1 of 3 that cast off on the 'essential' kakadu wetlands cruise
our german tour-guide pilots the boat and does the commentary
hmmm - his english is not so good, his pitch flat and his humour -
please stay in the boat - too much paperwork if a crocodile eats you
haha - heard that one before - ditto about the pumped up toy crocodile
30 minutes in and i'm watch-checking - probably didn't need this one
but then i pinch myself - look where we are - it really is extraordinary
beautiful scenery in every direction and a sun heading to set in the west
one boy on board is a master croc spotter so we see quite a few of them
the birdlife so diverse and all at work feeding or watching for prey
as the sun sinks the cameras go crazy and we work our way back
our captain as happy to see us go as we him it seems - not mr friendly
back at lodge cooinda it's mozzie free so we enjoy the warm evening
a g&t starter,  a nz pinot over dinner and chivas regal follows - oops

ubirr (kakadu)

we have a midday appointment at the corroborree roadhouse
a shuttle from there to be part of a wetland river cruise
no time for any delay in picking up our campervan in darwin
a phone-call to request early-as-possible pickup has worked
we're on the road with an hour or 2 to spare and head to kakadu
a very easy and uneventful drive to the roadhouse well early
coffee and watch the world go by - mostly huge road-trains
the decor of the roadhouse adding to the feeling of out-back
connie shows up on time and we load up into the 4 wheel drive
she then provides a running commentary of life in the wetlands
2 seasons - wet and dry - and the effect of drought and monsoons
and in no time we arrive dockside and clamber on board our vessel
there are 6 other passengers on a boat that would hold 20 or so
a quick safety drill and a warning to keep all body parts inside
there's too much paperwork involved in a crocodile attack - ha-ha
we cast off and skipper connie then goes into bird-spotting mode
most impressive first up is a black dada - perched on a branch
wings spread wide to dry them after an underwater fishing trip
there's white egrets in the reeds and white eagles high above
and before too long she spots a prone fresh-water crocodile
it's not moving - she jokes - i came and pumped it up earlier
thinking - could be - damn the birds - the tourists want crocs
we push on up the billabong with constant stops for birdlife
connie is a deft hand at maneuvering the flat-bottomed craft
we pull in amongst some lotus plants and take the provided lunch
cold meats and salad in a plastic container and downed quite easily
push off and a change in direction into another arm of the billabong
and right on cue a large salt-water crocodile allows us to draw near
i'm sure there was a sign of movement but it looks very non-plussed
we head out into the wider reaches of the mary river for a look-see
it is all staggeringly beautiful with clear skies, water and greenery
another very large crocodile is spotted swimming next to the shoreline
an almost audible sigh of relief from connie - the punters are happy
the 2 hours slip by very easily and a great start to our kakadu trip
back at the roadhouse we then point the campervan east and head off
we enter kakadu national park proper and push on into late afternoon
ubirr is our target - a site promising rock-art and a stunning sunset
we arrive on time and clamber up to the top of the rock formations
there's a small crowd already in attendance and a comment offered
recognise it? - this was used as a backdrop in crocodile dundee
sad really - surely this place has much more cultural significance
easy to imagine aborigines meeting at this place over millennia
the outlook over wetlands with huge rock formations is stunning
it looks and feels so timeless - thems dinosaurs roaming out there
or at least very easy to imagine so - we take it all in and descend
an agreement to return in the morning to check out the rock art
an immediate mission - somewhere to park ourselves tonight
fortunately the merl campground was spotted on the way in
we join the queue, pay the money down and find a spot
kind of a 3 star camping ground with no powered sites
what it does offer though is mosquitos - hoards of 'em
before we shut ourselves inside the van it is game on
and a restless nights sleep of buzzing and scratching
but we're here - kakadu - another dream realised...

darwin

free day in darwin - no plans, no commitments, no expectations
tomorrow is 5 day mission kakadu with a small campervan booked
first stop today is tourist information to get unbiased advice
natalie is super-helpful with info for kakadu and also locally
breakfast - head to the waterfront and take the lift down - sure
and what a lift with panoramic views over grass, water, buildings
the irish bar recommended for breakfast and so that is taken - fine
a chance to pour over multiple tourist brochures and make some plans
saildarwin spotted and offering a sunset cruise - phoned and locked in
multiple hours to kill and this city not in any hurry and nor are we
the harbourside high-rise apartment buildings and shopping inspected
so, so quiet though - we are out of season or they are ahead of time
nonetheless we like it and already plans for a return visit hatched
we find the city mall and again are baffled by the lack of people
mid-winter for us but mid-dry season for them and great weather
certainly there is vacant retail space but others are welcoming
a disquiet about the future of strip/mall/centre shopping resolute
in a sense it seems natural but the punters do not seem to follow
we do our little bit with some required camping attire purchased
a wander to our nearby hotel (everything is close) to gear-swap
our sunset sail departs in 4 hours in a not too distant place
we head to portside to take in a walk towards the ferry terminal
history intervenes with compelling displays of weapons and monuments
world war 2 visited this place significantly with australia attacked
it's a known fact but time taken to take it in now is not wasted time
there's a sunken american warship out there still - many lives lost
that's about as close as i want to get to war so let's move it on
a realisation that a walk to cullen bay is silly in this 30+ heat
we stumble on a bus-top, check the timetable - and wait, and wait
an agreement we could be anywhere in the world at this time and place
all is good - especially when number 14 shows up with a friendly driver
he drops us at the cullen bay ferry terminal and a-wandering we go
the place is deserted and has a very affluent feel to it as well
lola's bar found - complete with merry-go-round horses as decor
it has an outdoor seating area overlooking an expansive marina
good choice and a few hours killed there waiting for departure
we clamber on to saildarwin's catamaran with about 20 others
the master (gary) his young wife and toddler son welcome us
kite is all of 2 and a half but there's a wisdom beyond that
motor out onto darwin harbour then watch the sail cranked up
as we head west the 'champagne' flows - brand seaview is flowing
the finger food of offer is of a known standard - ms gary at work
the cruise is scheduled to last over 2 hours leading up to sunset
a great view is had of our now latest favourite city as we sail past
and still the drinks and food flows - these people know their stuff
feed 'em and fuel 'em - a simple but effective formula is at work
it's all quite intoxicating actually on this very balmy evening
a gentle and warm breeze on the face as we sail into the sunset
the sun she sinks and the cameras are now out clicking crazily
we spot a waterside restaurant that suggests a visit real soon
there are also other boats out with lights suggesting tourism
understandable too with a great confluence of factors at work
balmy night, water, sailing, holiday, food and bubbly flowing
the timing seems perfect as we dock, step ashore and depart
taxi - thanks - the city is close as we are hotel-bound
yet another superb day in a city we now rate highly...

ghan

it's a long walk from check-in at alice springs station
red section is behind the gold and platinum carriages
but they paid multiple thousands - we - multiple hundreds
the sensation of travelling a huge distance surely the same
for that is what this journey is about - the size of this land
flying is cheaper and faster but a slow train is olde world stuff
a sense that our fellow passengers are here for similar reasons
and admittedly mostly older generation and not in any hurry  
our seats are generously spaced and very comfortable - happy
an hour or so of daylight spent watching a passing landscape
and a sense of relaxation of doing that while another drives
derek our very english attendant advises us of train routines
dining car hours, lights-out time, driver-change time and more
including a 4 hour stop in katherine and an optional gorge trip
yes please - 9:00am offload and be back on the train by 1:00pm
tickets secured and then lights out after our imported picnic
a surprisingly good sleep - the train's rhythm very compatible
proof - the most sleepless time when it is stopped for an hour
awake before sunrise so to see that over the distant horizon
a few other passengers also aroused and cameras are clicking
7am opening of the dining car and already a queue for coffee
soy on offer so a railways regulation latte taken - not too bad
we pull into katherine station bang on time and the train empties
a fleet of modern buses lined up to take on the gorge travellers
thinking - the town must have done a deal to allow the train line
this completed in 2004 - a compulsory stopover would be boomtime
confirmed passing through the town - in better nick than remembered
a prior visit for a few days 20 years ago and then a backwater town
the economy based pretty well on welfare payouts - now tourism rules
a 30 minute trip to the gorge and another surprise - tourist city
the helicopters are at work as we walk to the large visitor centre
check our options - only 1 really in the couple of hours we have
a one hour round trip to a lookout point high above the gorge
totally enjoyable - metal steps at the top complete the ascent
camera swapping with other visitors to get full family photos
and then back down to take some lunch at the outdoor cafe
birds enjoying the tourism boom too - all very relaxing
we pile back on the bus, back to our train and head off
it's another 4 hours through the vast australian outback
it doesn't change much and that is part of the appeal here
red dirt, scrub, a few cows grazing, sun blazing, desolate
we roll into the darwin terminal some 25km south of the city
seems the cost of an inner-city station prohibitively expensive
so we gather up our 11 bags and wait for our pre-arranged shuttle
friendly driver but too much indiscernible commentary at this stage
thankfully we get to the city drop-off quickly and lugging begins
our hotel a couple of blocks away - a couple of trips - it is hot
the largest hotel room in living memory - showers and hit the town
an almost instant affinity with this city and the ambience it offers
it is hot and feels relaxed and not too crazily busy - just enough
a $15 offer for dinner and drinks at a streetside hotel taken up
we wait for a table and are ushered to front-of-house (street)
large handles of asahi lager and chilli prawn salad follow
10 out of 10 for taste and value - and desert found nearby
the local dupermarket - weiss espresso ice-cream bars
consumed as we wander back to the hotel - happy....

asp (for short)

our contractual obligations fulfilled successfully in alice springs
delivering our large vw campervan to apollo midday sunday 21st
oh what fun we have had hoofing it from sydney 3230km away
incident free apart from one minor issue with running out of fuel
but that providing more mirth than drama so taken as a positive
having a hotel room on wheels has been a real discovery for us
lugging our own kind of fast food has also assisted independence
we arrived in alice with a few hours to spare so hotel check-in first
swapping on-board luggage for a couple of bikes for a return journey
handed over the keys to our home at apollo then jumped on the bikes
a ride back into town and the discovery of a sunday morning market
the place is buzzing as we push our bikes through the milling crowds
a kind of return to reality actually after 6 days of relative obscurity
happy to wander and peruse and a locally made scarf is purchased
then mounting our machines and a gps assisted ride to our hotel
it feels like mid-summer - hot, dry and no water in the todd river
we ride alongside it and cross over to get back to lasseters hotel
the offer of dollar-each oysters noted prior and now well in mind
that and a well earned cold beer taken with salads for a nice lunch
sitting outdoors at the next-door casino and enjoying the ambience
solid gold hits on the music mix make it all seem quite timeless
and memories of many times in many similar places come easily
lazy sunday afternoon it is and a hotel swimming pool beckons
we don't get past the spa pool though - our bodies are pampered
soy lattes to follow and more relaxing poolside slow us further
a decision to keep it that way means an evening of nothingness
on monday morning we (re)pack, check out and taxi it into town
delicious breakfast taken at a buzzing epilogue cafe in todd mall
all day to kill so then a wander around various shops and galleries
no surprise at the sky-high prices for the earthy aboriginal paintings
the contrast with the likely economic position of the locals is noted
but with that a mental note that the local people do seem - um - content?
recalling memories of a more marked difference in outward appearance
but not something one should be judging a complex situation by methinks
looking for a tax write-off (not) we visit 2 electronics stores in town
alicetronics and igear are both long-time clients so let's meet and greet
hunter is most pleased to see us and a hour or so spent in his company
positive affirmation as usual in the years (decades) of code-writing
we then have another 5 hours or so to kill - lunch - taxi - hotel
a repeat of yesterdays beer-food-music in the outdoor setting
wi-fi locked in and hours gobbled up as both of us catch-up
retrieve the parked luggage and overload a taxi to rail central
a sense of excited anticipation seeing the ghan sitting waiting
but first check-in and a little bit of apologetic official argy-bargy
our 10 bags become 11 with some required weight re-allocation
no worries - photograph our wheels and a long walk to our carriage
red class is at the rear of the long train behind gold and platinum
piling on and taking our spacious and very comfortable seats
24 hours to darwin and all we have to do is - nothing - nice
ta-ta alice - good to see ya again - the journey continues...

uluru

the alarm goes off needlessly at 6am - we're already up

a plan hatched to actually do the uluru sunrise expedition

initially declined but a classic of case of why not - we're here

we drive out of the campground in darkness and head to the rock

there's a hint of a silhouette as we pass into the uluru national park

a beautiful glow on the horizon growing stronger as we circle uluru

the designated parking area already filling up with fellow early-birds

fire up the gas stove and walk with food and hot tea to the viewing area

we stand, drink and stare in wonder at one of nature's amazing sights

it's cool and still - people are chatting while waiting for the sunrise

a gradual lighting of the sky and rock and the direct hit rock glows
the colour going from grey to red as the glow creeps down and across   

most people soon wander off - much better in summer - is overheard

admittedly we are not overwhelmed but is there a better place to be?

and we want a full day so an early start will mean we get the most

breakfast conjured up in the campervan and then a drive closer

the uluru cultural centre - displays, art, videos, books, souvenirs

housed in a purpose-built and architecturally appropriate building

midnight oil's dead heart blasting out in a video of the handover

1985 - the area handed back to the original custodians - i'm teary

the ambience of the centre certainly inspiring such an emotion

an hour or so spent soaking it up and then we head closer still

we take up the offer of a free ranger guided walk at uluru's base

another couple of hours then learning more of the anangu people

our aboriginal guide linda from darwin but in awe of the anangu

so good to be so close - there's caves, art and customs to observe

statistics too - 348 metres above ground - 6000 metres below - wow

as we walk away we agree the planned full circuit walk is overkill

better to drive off and try to get some time at the iconic kings canyon

we fuel up and check the gps - nope - too far and too little time left

what to do? - hire bikes and ride around the base of uluru - oh yes

back we go - a return visit coming so much sooner than anticipated

hire the bikes and head back to the base for the counter-clockwise ride

such easy riding machines - one gear, fat tyres, and a cushioned seat

it takes about 2 minutes to realise we have made the right decision

around every corner is something else to behold - we stop constantly

the most spectacular sight being a waterhole at the base of a huge valley

starting at the very top and cascading down levels of pure smooth rock

imagining the sight of waterfalls that would be such a sight to behold

we push on - there's fellow cyclists and groups of walkers on the track

friendly greetings being constantly exchanged - seems we are all in awe

rounding the most distant point from departure and a seat and food taken

then mount up and an almost direct ride well out from uluru back to base

an opportunity to simply ride and gaze and appreciate - pinch me please

my conclusion - anyone needing a reality check or soul food - come here

we hand back the bikes 2 hours later and then bid farewell to uluru again

with a full tank of diesel we then head east 240km on lasseter highway

the roadhouse at erldunda at the stuart highway intersection is reached

a simple 200km to alice springs tomorrow - we check in and set up

our customary boiled rice, pickled vegetables and wine consumed

and both of us pass out very easily - another totally fulfilling day...

kata tjuta

today we are planning to reach the heart of this great land
uluru is the target - 330km from where we stopped at kulgera
making our mobile home road-ready now a very familiar routine
some breakfast then unplug, water-up, tidy up, lock down and depart
onto the stuart highway again and 90km north to hang a left turn
another 240km to be covered to yulara town adjacent to uluru
a perceptible  cheeriness in the fellow travellers from the west
with drivers of every passing vehicle offering a friendly wave
we take that as a promise of a fine time to be had at road's end
a perfect day - blue sky, low twenties, endless red dirt and scrub
mt conner comes into view - this gigantic rock demands attention
it has perfect symmetry - sloping sides, erect cliffs and a flat top
simply the definition of that other much over-used word - awesome
a change of driver at a roadside rest stop identifies a return campsite
signs indicating such activity is welcomed - that could be very handy
uluru looms in the horizon - excitement levels then crank up a notch
next stop - yulara - park the vehicle and a-wandering we then go
the unique architecture reminds me of my first visit 25 years ago
first impressions this time is that it is all very well maintained
a wander to the information centre to plan 2 days of activities
done easily and quickly - we take a rare coffee at the village cafe
next stop - the campground to secure a powered site - also easy
very well organised and laid out and more genuinely friendly staff
we have 5 hours of daylight left and 2 planned walks at kata tjuta
formally known as the olgas but aboriginal respect now superceding
36 rock domes with the highest at 546 metres and established paths
as we drive nearer another cliche comes to mind - jaw-dropping
the wow factor off the scale with the rocks in the afternoon sun
we come prepared - on with the back-pack and onto the track
the first gentle walk up to a stunning close-up viewing position
a huge sheer cliff of red rock in front and behind - so unique
we push on down and clamber along the valley of the winds
the path is loose shingle and rocks requiring due diligence
the views - just stunning - bright red rock against a blue sky
native trees and shrubs adding to the timelessness of this place
we reach another decision point and decide to push on further
a clamber up the path to a high lookout to more of the domes
a few other people enjoying the walk - some annoyingly so
loud whoops causing echoes and ignoring the request for quiet
some people just don't get it - spirituality - na - it's all about me
we backtrack to the starting point and quickly drive to walpa valley
this a much more sedate walk up the valley to another viewing point
cliffs of smooth red rock going straight up on either side - staggering
a few moments of solice at the lookout and a wander back to the van
and a few minutes drive up the road to position ourselves for sunset
this accompanied by a bottle of nz cuvee brut and wasabi snacks
it just does not get any better - we are in awe of this sublime place
the sun on the rock a bonus to a wonderful day - and then it's night
a drive back to town with the milky way able to be clearly seen
pull in, plug in, eat up, wine to assist - an absolute gift of a day....

in the eyre

the promised message comes through - meet you at 07:50am
shortly after followed by a phone-call - fog has rolled in - stay put
both from rev - our pilot for the pre-arranged 4-hour lake eyre flight
the delay welcomed to give us time to pack-up, water-up and fuel-up
we drive out to coober pedy airport quietly excited about the day ahead
the place is deserted though one very modern helicopter doing exercises
rev makes the call - it's on - gary and dale arrive and the 5 of us acquaint
one thing with a light plane is to get the weight balance right - i'm up front
fine by me as i can at least pretend to be the co-pilot alongside pilot rev
on with the headphone and microphone sets for on-board discussions
we accelerate down the runway and up very easily goes the cessna 210
a right bank and climbing out to the south-west of coober pedy town
a perfectly blue sky, no wind and a unique landscape - very exciting
the first amazing sight - we see hundreds of holes in the earth's crust
each adjoined by a perfectly formed cone of white earth - tailings
the hole representing a miner digging down in search of the opals
rev starts his commentary - opals earn 400 million dollars annually
85% of that coming out of coober pedy - there's big bucks down there
and then we fly over a now abandoned iron ore mine - 400 employees
the recent crash in world prices forcing the bean-counters to close it down
by now my head is firmly planted against the planes window - i'm hooked
crossing a fence-line and we are over anna creek station - 6 million acres
13,000 head of cattle, 5000km of fencing and an equal distance of roads
mind-boggling statistics are being rolled out only matched by the scenery
we push east at a height of 1500 feet - the plane's shadow in clear view
the terrain is ever-changing with a mix of dirt, puddles, creeks and scrub
the stunning colours and patterns resembling a huge aboriginal artwork
we are heading to the painted hills which are located on anna creek station
the owners barring entry so only accessible by permission or by air - lucky us
as we approach it is easy to understand why they are held in such high regard
rev suggests the shapes and colours are like the top of a lemon meringue pie
an extraordinary landscape and a sense these hills are unique in the world
they cover a huge area requiring a couple of passes before we track east
there are low clouds in the distance as there is today's target - lake eyre
we've already been airborne a couple of hours when we reach the lake
more fantastic (accurate here) patterns formed in the very dense water
it's quite shallow in most places so the bed of the lake is what we see
one point we cross is the lowest part of australia - 15m below sea level
more stats - the water 10 times saltier than the ocean and way more dense
2.5 times denser than the dead sea though swimming is not recommended
we skirt around the small north western corner of the lake - a tiny fraction
the town of william creek is south australia's smallest town - population - 17
rev puts the cessna down then and drives us to the iconic william creek hotel
it's a classic - everything and more you would expect to see in an outback pub
corrugated iron, concrete floor, jukebox, business cards and cash pinned all over
happy to have a (ginger) beer there and perusal of the wall mounted clippings
stories in newspapers of the history of the hotel and the neighbouring station
a brief but very satisfying visit before we clamber back into the cessna 210
rev promises a 40 minute flight back and the conversation now flowing well
4 totally exhilerated passengers and 1 pilot excited about his own future
another gentle touchdown at coober pedy and farewells offered all round
and we are off - the campervan pointed north again to get as far as we can
both of us still buzzing about the flight - worth every cent is the consensus
having filled up in town our only driving limitation now is daylight hours
we push, push, push over the northern territory border 424km to kulgera
a totally uneventful drive again indulging in fine munchies and music
kulgera is basically a roadhouse so fuel up and hit a powered site
happy hour at the pub taken in the company of the grey nomads
a few beers and hot chips seems appropriate - and then settle in
what a day - they just seem to get better - long may it last...

white man in a hole (coober pedy)

another early start out of port augusta - gotta get kms covered
an instant realisation of a major change in the scenery - scrub rules
we're now feeling we are on the run up the centre - and sunshine too
not long after leaving town - hmmm - should have filled up - too late
we have also realised we're got a heavy and thirsty beast to control
so engage the cruise control and lock on to a steady 95-ish kph
today's plan is to get to coober pedy - a straight-forward 540km
the road is good but concentration needed - them trucks are big
road trains - truck and 2 trailers coming at us fairly constantly
most other traffic is 4wd and caravan - the grey nomads are out
oh well - if you can't beat 'em - we're happy to be part of it really
totally enjoying the sense of space and timelessness in this place
our on-board refreshments continue to satisfy - no need for stops
but - the diesel runs low - it will be touch and go to get to pilba
nearing the town we pull over to shoot some camera-shy emus
they out-numbering all other fauna by a long way - surprising
back on the road and pilba is spotted - but - yep - out of fuel
not a good feeling as we then glide as far as we possibly can
it's only a 10 minute hike to the pilba roadhouse and fuel-stop
the same back lugging a 10-litre container of essential liquid
all good fun really - and a little lesson to be carried forward
after feeding the beast we continue our north-bound drive
coober pedy's information centre is reached mid-afternoon
inside we are welcomed and advised by the jocular duncan
it's all about timing - a sydney couple also seeking advice
a flight over lake eyre - cheaper for 4 - done - we sign up
that's tomorrow taken care of so let's cram it it for today
first stop - fay's historic self-built underground home
quaint and an insight into how many local people live
the current resident proudly showing off her current home
and with it a lesson on the history of this opal-mining town
next - the old timers mine - an underground mining museum
a hard-hat required as we guide ourselves around the displays
fascinating really and so much learned about this place quickly
a drive around the back-streets and up to a lookout point follows
it certainly is a unique town - there's wealth in the apparant squalor
we check-in and plug-in at the local caravan park and wander off
a gentle walk via the supermarket and a restaurant sign is spotted
the underground - already seen on trip adviser - downstairs we go
very pleasant too - good food and the owner very accommodating
a keen photographer to snap the occasion before we head home
our campervan filling that role nicely - another fine day had...

driving, driving and more driving

a very comfortable first night's sleep in the campervan
after pulling into a rest area in the dark at yanco creek
making the most of our option to be fully self-contained
hit the road early to try to get the agenda back on track
a kangaroo bounds across the road before we hit full speed
we take that as some kind of positive omen for the trip ahead
it's overcast and fog is hanging low making some great scenery
large ploughed fields with clumps of trees poking into the fog
our large vehicle cruises ok at 110kph and hay is soon reached
no urge or time to stop so we push on anticpating a long drive
mildura comes and goes - any other time it would deserve a look
but we want to get centred and there's a big distance to cover
coming into gol gol and a roadside citrus stall demands a stop
the mandarins are delicious - the oranges and avocados stashed
finally a sighting of the mighty murray as we approach renmark
this being the major reason for west by south rather than north
driving over the river gives a sense of the timelessness of it
large naked trees protruding from equally grey and muddy banks
we stop at renmark and take a visit to the information centre
some insight to the ps (paddle-steamer) industry is provided
we gaze out at the murray and contemplate a future river cruise
tempted to do some local sightseeing but we decide to push west
so off we head and then an unplanned stop - an agriculture check
seems our mandarins, oranges and avocados are illegal immigrants
sad to see them seized and destroyed - surely some futile gesture
it all seems a bit of a throwback but what can we do - moving on
we re-cross the murray near blanchetown and decide to look closer
a walk back across an adjacent abandoned bridge spoiled by rain
diesel running low and then with a fillup a re-check of directions
we've overshot by a few kms but easily recovered with gps help
and a guided journey through some quiet back-country roads
feeling even more like wop-wop when a car-ferry is required
darkness is upon us also as we keep pushing north-west
some comfort though when finally merging onto the a1
and not long after port pirie is seen off in the distance
another hour through to port augusta - and mighty relief
it's been a very long day - over 1100km covered in total
driver-swapping, continuous snacks and music all helping
we find a caravan park on the northern outskirts of town
office closed - but plug in anyway - dinner - and - sleep...

darwin or dust day 1

woo-hoo - another campervan relocation job lined up
after the fun of last years jaunt in nz's north island
this one rather more ambitious - sydney to alice springs
4 days allocated to cover 3000km - we opt for another 2
another lesson learnt from last year - bigger is better
so a 6 berth vehicle is selected to provide more comfort
a later than planned start due to some airport deliveries
then tardiness in the dealing with paperwork at base apollo
we are the lowest class of customer so nothing too unexpected
though melinda and her french intern are helpful and pleasant
we have taken full advantage of the unlimited baggage allowance
so multiple suitcases, boxes and bags are loaded into the vw van
a round of pre-trip photos and we're off - speedo reads 139217km
the comfort factor flickers in the high register with our vehicle
it is responsive, comfortable, has great visibility and/but auto
all tested quickly while navigating around the sutherland shire
google maps assisting to avoid toll booths and unwanted ticketing
a great feeling of escape as we hit the hume's dual carriageway
it has been a busy 5 days in a busy city so the contrast is felt
we're loaded up with asian munchies galore so hunger is abated
liqourice dried fruit, wasabi seaweed, taro moshi balls to start
before long the carefully selected cd wallet is also plundered
old favourites - cafe del mar, neville brothers, st germaine
perfect driving music and a pretty decent sound system at work
we had a choice of north and west or south and west - same kms
memories of the hay plain and the murray river suggested south
target for today - hay - a late start so that is under review
a few spots of rain and a reminder of more predicted westwards
quite light traffic and a cruising speed of 110km - all is good
we change driving roles and both agreeing - a pleasure to drive
no worries then about the 5 long driving days to come - prepared
we hang a right off the hume and hit the a94 - burley griffen way
good to get onto a previously untravelled road and some new scenery
dual carriageway it is not but entirely enjoyable it certainly is
a gently twisting and undulating road through gentle hilly country
the traffic now lighter again as we now excitedly head due west
we pass through small towns that seem to be closed for business
for sale signs on a few houses bringing to mind the sydney scene
another contrast - i doubt there is any real estate frenzy here
and for me a real sense that urbanisation is an almighty force
our apollo lady said 500km per tank - surely not - has to be more  
so despite passing through various towns offering fuel we push it
silly us - the last quarter of tank disappears quickly as do towns
6 hours after leaving sydney and darkness approaching - worried
and then the god of petrol stations thankfully answers our call
a kind of roadhouse in the middle of nowhere and diesel on tap
inside reminding me of a scene from some american road film
and the lady cashier all but wishing me to 'have a nice day'
the final push for the day gets us to the town of narranderra
it seems relatively large but it's now dark so no investigation
we pass through and find a rest area in the trees at yanco creek
cruise in and then spend the required time to finally unpack
read the compulsory how-to manual and rustle up a fine meal
rice and pickled vegetables washed down with a nice shiraz
with the ambience of rain showers and illuminated road trains
very happy - 566km covered on the first day of darwin-or-dust
and an early night in order for an early start and do it again...

ixcanul (volcano)

sydney film festival - let's catch a few while in town
this one from guatemala and featuring native mayans
a promise of an 'entirely engrossing sensory experience'
that'll do - never been to guatemala - virtually or otherwise
opening scenes - from the poster - a young girl being dressed
pigs seen being primed with alcohol to assist in the mating game
the same young girl (maria) being clumsily kissed by her friend pepe
this as they are at work in the coffee plantation the family is living on
a confronting scene of a pigs throat being cut and then dismembered
maria is looking on - nothing said but her sadness permeates anyway
i take it as a bit of a challenge - you want a snapshot of peasant life?
maria's mother is seen preparing a meal for some important visitors
she has been betrothed to ignacio - the supervisor of the plantation
he and his parents arrive to discuss the arrangement oblivious to her
is maria a good housekeeper? can she cook? does she love ignacio?
he is much older and already divorced - but his position is very useful
a guarantee they would be able to stay on the property - the deal is sealed
he has to travel to the city for work so the ceremony planned for his return
life on the plantation is tenuous - an infestation of lethal snakes is a problem
making planting and harvesting of the coffee crop difficult if not impossible
maria and her mother seen then making petrol bombs and burning the land
the father seems to be useless - talks the doom but of little practical help
a sad scene of maria lying awake as her parents make love next to her
her one escape seems to be hanging out with friends at a makeshift bar
pepe also there and on one night drinks too much and rough sex follows
maria obliging but asking him to not come inside her - but to no avail
she falls pregnant - eventually her mother finds out and is sympathetic
but abortion is the only choice as it is important ignacio is not aware
they try various crude condiments and exercises to get rid of the baby
maria seen rock-jumping amongst smouldering ash from the volcano
a belief also that snakes will scamper from a woman bearing a child
so maria enters the plantation - only for her to suffer a bad snakebite
her parents then man-handling her down the mountain to get help
with ignacio to the rescue - they pile into the back of his open truck
mother juana wailing and cradling her now unconscious daughter
the busy streets of guatemala city providing a contrasting backdrop
a hospital is found but language is now a problem to be overcome
the native mayans are a minority group and do not speak spanish
but the message gets across and maria is then taken into a theatre
she is saved but the baby is lost - a form is presented to be signed
with that a promise of a government funded coffin for the dead baby
juana forces her sleeping daughter to place a thumbprint on the form
and back in the country the villagers gather for a funeral and burial
maria is distraught of course and her parents are more circumspect
with suspicions aroused maria digs up the coffin - inside is a brick
back to the hospital to determine what happened to maria's baby
but no use - the form has been signed and they are mere peasants
and so full circle - we then see maria being dressed for marriage
the end - a simple but sad story in an exotic but hostile setting
there's a lot on offer - significantly the 3 central characters
a young girl forced to grow up quickly and unnaturally
a mother providing her unconditional love and support
a father also loving his daughter but of very little use
all of them struggling with the modernities of life
so in a sense a parable of life in general for many
not as engrossing as promised but still good to see...

foxcatcher

finally - got to see this highly rated film from 2014
even though not fussed about another american sports film
boxing, baseball, grid-iron all done to death - this one - wrestling
but not the hyped-up, faked-up, all show and glamour stadium format
this the pure olympic discipline with real skill and technique required
the film opens with dated scenes of horses and riders being prepared
and 'foxcatcher' seen emblazoned on the blanket of one of the horses
next we're inside a gymnasium and 2 wrestlers seen having a workout
brothers mark and dave schultz - both gold medal winners 3 years prior
l a olympics - 1984 - this is a true story which adds to the film's appeal
dave seems to have it over mark who increasingly gets more aggressive
some brotherly jealousy at work it seems - mark then seen at his home
a simple apartment, basic eating habits and then a late night phone call
a request for mark to visit john dupont - an all expenses paid trip offered
nothing to lose so off he goes - and to the sprawling estate of foxcatcher
dupont is one creepy guy played by an almost unrecognisable steve carell
his aloof, detached and very measured manner seems quite other-worldy
he wants mark to come and join his wrestling team - oh and bring dave
dave cannot - he has a wife, kids and a contract to honour - but go for it
mark has already agreed to a salary of $20k - which is what he asked for
scenes then of him adjusting to a solitary life on the luxury property
training incessantly and willingly - he wants to make the man proud
dupont befriends him - and flies him in his private jet to a function
on the way cocaine is imbibed by both - mark not wanting to say no
at the charity function mark makes a sycophantic introduction speech
a turning point - training slides, food, alcohol and drug intake ascends
and with it more insight into the life and motivation of john dupont
he an only child - his elderly mother (vanessa redgrave) lives there
she a horse lady and very disapproving of her son's own obsession
telling him wrestling is a low sport john - and i hate to see you low
he also revealing to mark she paid a boy to be his childhood friend
filthy rich he may be but he has no friends and indulges in hobbies
he an ornithologist (birds), philatelic (stamps) and military expert
even indulging in veterans wrestling with submissive opponents
mark's self-indulgence means he misses selection for seoul '88
and dupont finally getting his way with brother dave signing up
he relocates his family to foxcatcher and becomes chief trainer
the demise of mark then continues - dupont calling him a big ape
but he is released with a salary - brother dave to the rescue again
dave now has the job of training the team and placating dupont
though seen resisting laying on the platitudes in a documentary
not long after which dupont's mother dies and john is in a funk
watching the video and realising dave's reticence he pays a visit
pulls a gun and asks don't you like me dave - and 3 shots are fired
a very realistic death scene in the snow with wife nancy distraught
and so the slowly simmering creepiness of the man finally realised
the final scenes - dupont is arrested and mark seen entering a ring
he has converted to ufc - the 'sport' where brutality a pre-requisite
and a suggested outlet for the pent-up anger and resentment he feels
a final reminder as the film wraps up - it's all based on a true story
dupont sentenced for murder and died in prison in 2010 aged 72
so well done - director bennett miller matching his capote film
steve carell - now considered a seriously good serious actor
and mark ruffalo (dave) - can do no wrong - now must-see
this is a film that will definitely hold up to repeat viewing...