random thoughts and comments from nomadic music film and travel junkie - seeks no recognition, claims no expertise

Friday, 31 July 2015

phoenix




















a german film set in berlin post world war 2 is enticing
more so as it stars nina hoss last seen in barbara at nziff 2014
that memorable (i think) film also directed by christian petzold
a promise here of a hitchcock-esque film-noir drama irresistible
a woman at night driving a car and constantly checking her passenger
pulling up to a roadblock and harrassed by the american armed guards
nice car - where's it from - switzerland as am i - we then see the passenger
her head wrapped in bloodied bandages which the guard orders to remove
the driver advising she is from the camps - an apology and waved through
scenes in a hospital with a surgeon asking what face the patient now wants
suggesting an opportunity for a change is good - but - i want my old face back
when she is released the 2 ladies take up common residence and make plans
lene (driver) is keen to travel to palestine presumably to be part of the new israel
but nelly has an urge to find her family though known to be killed by the nazis
she is then seen picking through the rubble of the now destroyed family home
and at night standing outside a music club - phoenix - recognising a patron
this as he hauls a lady away for a quick bit of business nelly is witness to
but no it is not her husband johnny but a man who then proceeds to mug her
back at the shared house lene chastises her for her naivety alone at night
seems berlin post-war is a dangerous place particularly for jewish women
despite lene's protestations nelly continues the quest to find her husband
which she then does at the club but he does not recognise her changed face
but - she is now quite rich - and he does recognise the chance to cash in
he hatches a plan for the 2 of them to fake her arrival back in berlin
long enough to secure her inheritance which they will share 50-50
ok - thinking - this is a bit of a stretch but i may be missing something
we and she know she is his wife but he only sees a passing resemblance
lene is horrified that nelly has made contact and warns her to avoid him
for it is he that dobbed his own wife into the nazis but nelly is not sure
she then proceeds to play along with johnny's plan to get to the truth
right - hence the hitchcock talk - a simple premise with a big twist
it's hard to know if johnny has twigged to it but he works on the plan
this partly involves a visit to a country lake where she was hidden
and meeting the local innkeepers who do seem to recognise her
this throws him a bit and some creeping doubt now in his mind
especially when he does then drop her real name but he pushes on
he prepares her for an arrival by train to be met by him and friends
insisting that he needs to scar her arm to fake removal of her number
he says released auschwitz prisoners did so that will aid authenticity
in a further twist it is revealed lene has surprisingly committed suicide
her dream of getting to palestine with nelly now dashed - and a note
i am drawn more to the dead than the living - and another document
proof that nelly's husband divorced her just before the nazis arrested her
thot plickens - and the finale arrives - she steps off the train as arranged
friends gather and embrace her - she walks to johnny to play it out
her head on his shoulder as he planned and then off they all go
a lunch at a large country estate and lots of small talk flowing
and then nelly suggests a song and johnny to play the piano
she sings - speak low - his face drains as he realises the truth
her voice for one thing and her prison number seen on her arm
she finishes the song - she walks out of the room - the film ends
interesting - i kind of get the rave reviews - but - but - not sure
a lot of time thinking about it afterwards suggests an impact
maybe a repeat viewing - it will certainly stand up to that...

amy




















amy winehouse - is there anything left to learn about her
her adult life owned by the media and we were all voyeurs
but i do enjoy a good music-based documentary so let's see
opening scenes showing the lady at a friend's 14th birthday party
she seems a happy girl though the cigarette in hand suggests attitude
hamming it up with a fake microphone and the unique voice is there
name-checking the great jazz singers she loves including tony bennett
fast forward a few years and then seen in a car with a male friend
he a musician and a young manager securing some studio time
more than they need in fact so amy is invited to try out the studio
her talent shines through of course and the wheels are now in motion
a clamouring of major record labels then sees a record deal done
big money paid too meaning amy can afford to set up her own place
not a happy home life with her errant dad admitting a life of adultery
amy now free to spend her days 'smoking weed and writing songs'
the result of that being debut album frank that is quite successful
the film so far - ok for a bunch of random videos stitched together
a feeling that someone has decided there's a commercial opportunity
fair enough - but i'm hanging in for something special to happen up there
snatches of her music only so far - no full-length mind-blowing performance
the cynic kicks in - bet they could not get permission from the publishers
anyway we keep at it though 30 minutes in and 90 to go seems a stretch
we meet the man she falls in love with - blake fielder - not a nice chap
it's kind of sad in fact to once again see a nice girl besotted with a prat
she does come across as a genuinely nice person with real problems
not only her choice of partner and family issues but her health also
bulimia has been a constant in her life and a constant battle for her
she does gorge on mostly unhealthy food which is secretly rejected
intentionally or not the film does depict she leads a quite sad life
this translated into song lyrics seen as sub-titles as she sings them
some brief but interesting scenes of her recording back to black
fame comes her way but contentment dramatically eludes her
her early girlfriends are left behind though avail themselves
and the men in amy's life do nothing to provide guidance
her boyfriend gets her hooked on crack cocaine and heroin
at least one person suggesting he doing that to control her
her father seems more focused on his now accidental fame
and other men seem quite weak or there only to do their job
the swarming paparazzi like vultures waiting for the kill
scenes of flashing cameras wound up for maximum effect
pretty sad really with respite coming only in performance
the brief scenes of that in the film do show her genuine talent
this acknowledged by her idol tony bennett who awards a grammy
and then asks her to sing with him for a song on his duets album
seeing that another point of respite for her and us the audience
the film then wraps up pretty quickly with her death in 2011
a feeling of inevitability pervades and then the hand-wringing
relief really with a 2 hour expose of amy's sad life now over
i can't say i was at all enthralled by this busy documentary
just too much of a fact check and lots of them thrown up
reading wikipedia after pretty well read like the film script
a lot of ground covered but with no emotional investment
mind you - 'from the directors of senna' - says it all really
the focus of the film to feed the insatiable fascination (few)
me - a feeling concentration on one aspect would be better
e.g. the recording of back to black would be more soulful
maybe that will come as even in death she is an enigma
so no escape there then - sad really - thanks - amy...

Thursday, 30 July 2015

the mafia only kills in summer




















opening night of new zealand international film festival 2015
an interesting pick - huge in italy - unheard of anywhere else
actor/director/writer pierfrancesco diliberto - pif is well known
italy's answer to jon stewart also with his own satirical tv show
this is his first film based on sicily's long struggle with the mafia
it starts in 1969 with the conception of arturo - he doing voiceover
his parents on their wedding night are consummating their marriage
this in the same building that a mafia boss runs his shady operation
and on this night visited by a rival gang disguised as police officers
a violent shootout which we then seen comically affecting the sperm
some clever animation showing all but one sperm reversing direction
the egg is fertilised - and so it is arturo's life is influenced by the mafia
the credits roll - what an enticing start with comedy in the violence
and then we are entrenched in the 1970s watching arturo as a child
it's done so well with impressive attention to detail with fashion, etc
his home has the appropriate furniture, decor and tellingly - attitude
his father a tv addict and detached from his son who remains silent
the first word he speaks - mafia - when a priest visits for a blessing
actual tv news items cleverly used to describe the mafia's dominance
the city of palermo in it's grip with any opposing voice assassinated
we witness arturo as a student and his first crush on a classmate
more comedy as his affections are hijacked by a fellow student
flora oblivious to the feelings of the shy and sensitive arturo
just as she warms to him she announces her family is leaving
her father tired of the violence and a relocation to switerland
arturo declares his love in an elaborate pavement chalk drawing
just as we are lulled into the sweetness of this violence returns
a huge car bomb destroys his drawing and the building behind
the family has left but an outspoken lawmakers family killed
and again actual tv footage used to add authenticity to the film
skipping forward a number of years and arturo now a young man
still pining for flora and now working as a pianist for a comedian
he has also befriended a journalist and sees that as his profession
some great scenes of arturo riding around palermo on his moped
job-hunting and as part of that witness to a mafia assassination
flora shows up back in town working as an aid to a politician
she agrees to allow arturo to be their journalist/cameraman
but their views differ on her bosses sincerity towards the mafia
her righteousness leads to her dismissing arturo's romantic notions
and again demonstrating the influence the mob has had on his life
in the meantime the locals are tired of the mafia's violent ways
protests grow in numbers and more actual footage is shown
at one such bustling protest arturo and flora spot each other
an embrace, a kiss, happy days and then we fast forward
flora delivering a baby and arturo the proud father is there
arturo's voiceover providing a most memorable postscript
parents must protect children from the wickedness of the world
they must also teach their children how to recognise wickedness
this as arturo and flora are seen reading from various plaques
placed where people standing up to the mafia were assassinated
me - brought a smile to my face - a great ending to a superb film
good choice for the opening night of nziff - woo-hoo - here we go...

Wednesday, 29 July 2015

blick bassy - ako




















blick bassy - a new name to me but glad i checked him out
coinciding with the release of this album and so a few reviews read
the guardian (uk) offering a short paragraph in high praise of the record
a short but beautifully realised gem from an innovative paris label
that label being no format! - best described as the ecm of african music
at least in terms of artistic consistency as seen on the label's website
the guardian review speaking of an ethereal voice, cellos, trombones
and homage to and commonality with american blues singer skip james
'nuff said - hit up google play for a sample and it's love at first note
the album opener just exquisite and onto the radio show playlist
ake - it sounds like a plucked cello, harmonia and the ethereal voice
some beautiful vocal harmonies in the mix also on this most gentle tune
his voice is the african component to a stunning minimalist blues/folk feel
kiki picks up the pace and a trombone and banjo also added to the mix
the striking thing is it sounds so unique - bluegrass/jazz/soul/african
exciting really with a sense that a whole new genre has been found
big call of course but the next tune - wap do wap - is also unique
a jazzed up double bass leading to an infectious sing-a-long tune
with harmonising trombones and tuned out strings in the mix
another short sharp blast of music all over in a couple of minutes
and so it goes - each track stunningly produced and oozing - love
who is this man - born in 1974 in cameroon but now lives in france
in a small village after spending time in brazil studying bossa nova
snatches of information thrown up by google but nothing on wiki
most references are to this album - wildly eclectic tunes - agreed
his own website providing a compelling introduction to the man
yikes - he one of 21 brothers and sisters - his father had 3 wives
childhood devoted to music and choirs made up of the full family
his want now to live in a small rural village to match his upbringing
a devotion to bassa the main ethnic language of his home country
further listening and 'voice as instrument' easily comes to mind
a lazy way of describing vocals in a foreign language no doubt
but here blick bassy does use his voice apart from singing words
ceu jorge comes to mind also both vocally and instrumentally
but the main influence according to the experts is skip james
blues delta singer from mississippi born 1902 and died 1969
revered by blick bassy alongside marvin gaye and nina simone
which provides a bit of a handle on his love of singing and songs
what a gorgeous album - 11 tracks - average length under 3 minutes
me - hooked (obviously) and very happy to make his acquaintance
so good to stumble on a genuine and unique talent in their early days
this the 3rd album for blick bassy but surely many more to follow
his touring schedule suggesting he is a prolific live performer
mostly in his adopted country of france but maybe womad?
we shall see but in the meantime repeat listening it is...

Sunday, 26 July 2015

okia reserve
















part 3 of the on-going series of local sunday excursions
a little project to build a portfolio of places for easy day-trips
we started 2 weeks ago with a re-visit to the stunning tunnel beach
last week it was a wander along the beach and lagoon at waikouaiti
cold, windy and a bit of rain - a typical winter's day but well enjoyed
today - a rare spring-like day with a warm sun, clear skies and no wind
okia reserve had been casually mentioned on a website promoting walks
sounded interesting and never-before-visited so an easy agreement reached
an always enjoyable drive along portobello road past the town and a right turn
onto weir road - gravel but smooth enough and up, over and down the hill we go
skirt gently around the pristine papanui inlet and then hang a left onto rivell road
sheep, ducks and geese seeming non-plussed about anther car of invading tourists
the road ends with a small car-park already near full - ah - a well known secret
a sign suggests a 90 minute round trip or 150 minutes with an added loop walk
easy so off we head with a lunch-loaded backpack and several jackets on each
stage one is a purpose built flat track straight across the wetland-now-farmland
the aptly named pyramids are the first stop -  a pair of rocky bush covered hills
a sign suggesting an easy 10 minute walk up the smaller one for stunning views
never one to shun some vertical ascension so we hit the goat track up to the top
yep - stunning alright and a sign at the summit describing the peak's formation
the pyramid being hardened lava from volcanic activity 2 million years ago
kakadu comes to mind as we look out across wetlands in this ancient place
we can also see the ocean in the distance and hear rhe roar of victory beach
an easy descent and pushing on following a track and information signs
seems the area was cleared for farmland way back but now a reversal
native trees are being re-planted to hopefully restore the wetlands area
a mental note to revisit and watch progress as we head to the beach
the ups and downs of the track more pronounced until we hit the coast
jaws-drop as we stand atop a large sand dune with a pristine beach below
no choice but to take a free-fall scramble down the dune and onto the sand
omg - 100% pure - a long flat beach with cliffs and sea-mist at each end
silhouettes of other visitors at one end but we are alone here in paradise
nothing else to do but take a slow amble and enjoy the wonder of this place
large waves are crashing and a reminder of the source of the name of the beach
a/the s s victory ship-wrecked off the coast in the clearly wild seas out there
today the piles of wood and weed washed up on-shore confirm the danger
it's not quite hot enough today anyway so no chance of a tempting swim
we look out for the promise of sea-lions or a rare yellow-eyed penguin
nothing so we settle on a beached tree and enjoy a primitive lunch
tearing into a cooked chook and washed down with coconut water
then a gentle walk to the cliffs and a juvenile sea leopard is spotted
it's head and large eyes seen in the rocks equally checking us out
we scramble up the sand dune and follow a hint of a track back
some scrambling through the scrub required at times but no risk
the pyramids remain in sight so no danger of getting lost here
jackets are dispensed as we work up a sweat on this warm day
the loop track is then found and a re-trace of the path back out
back to the car to complete a 3 hour expedition in okia reserve
simply stunning - what a discovery - top of the hit-list already
drive out, back over the hill to the aptly named penguin cafe
a coffee enjoyed looking out over a sunny otago harbour - happy...


Friday, 24 July 2015

mr holmes




















in one sense this film seems a kind of obvious construction
put one well-known and well-loved actor into an equal role
made even more popular recently by downey and cumberbatch
and therefore cynically suggesting a sure-fire box-office success
so what - the reviews are glowing and ian mckellen is a class act
we're in a train in the opening scene with sherlock in a carriage
displaying his sharp perceptive skills from the start to a young boy
he alights at a country town and travels by taxi to a country home
first impressions - impressive - the attention to detail is thorough
vehicles, costumes, houses, hairstyles etc all well dated post-war
mr mckellen also seems in fine form playing an aged eccentric
the home he arrives at is his own - he has returned from japan
he is met by his housekeeper mrs munro and her young son roger
she played by a plained-down frumped-up (american) laura linney
cursory greetings and then sherlock is seen attending to his bees
giving roger and us a few lessons on the hierarchical life in a hive
a rare smile from the man as the boy probes with sensible questions
royal jelly is discussed - harvested by sherlock to aid creeping dementia
and his latest procurement - liquid from the elusive japanese prickly ash
sherlock is desperate to conclude his last case abandoned 30 years prior
and into flashback mode we go as snatches of the case come to his mind
dr watson has married and so is conveniently written out of this script
leaving the man to take on the latest case of a man with wife troubles
she has miscarried twice and depressive and now an obsessive musician
the glass harmonium - he bans it - she continues to take lessons in secret
the younger sherlock is hired to follow her as the flashback concludes
holmes then seen desperately trying to recall and write up the case
he knows he failed and gave up his work to retire to the country
it's all quite riveting with ian mckellen very deftly playing mr holmes
in later scenes as an old man and also a convincing 30 years younger
roger his young sidekick matches his manner, intelligence and curiosity
another series of flashbacks details the recent trip to post-war japan
retrieving a prickly ash plant from the scarred landscape of hiroshima
a few disfigured people providing a questionable slight on atomic war
sherlock is being hosted by the son of an acquaintance from london
another mystery worked into the mix - what is the connection there?
so there are 3 stories now cleverly interwoven into this absorbing film
back to the unsolved case and we learn the mystery woman is suicidal
our man finally confronts her and accurately tells her everything he knows
including her suicide plan - her response - you are as lonely as i - be my friend
confronting stuff for sherlock - in shock he advises her to return to her husband
within hours she has died in front of a train and sherlock is seriously affected
admitting he is a loner and having rejected a beautiful woman he then retires
back in the present day young roger is attacked by a angry swarm of wasps
he is hospitalised - and a less than convincing scene of a distraught mother
similarly sherlock throws himself to the ground and weeps over the boy
but of course - he survives - and sherlock has found contentment at last
they all live happily ever after - nice - a happy ending here is good
very good film actually - good plotting, pacing and acting too
take a bow mr mckellen - you now own sherlock holmes...

Friday, 10 July 2015

far from the madding crowd




















saw carey mulligan talking this one up on graham norton's show
directed by thomas vinterberg - the hunt - that a scarily good film
this one also getting rave reviews and a big score on rotten tomatoes
a good period piece is always good value so that convinces us to see it
the film an adaptation of a well-known book apparently though not read
so it will be interesting to see if the film can deliver to us new-comers
bathsheba everdene (mulligan) is in voiceover in the opening scene
explaining the unknown source of her name and early loss of parents
1870 dorset - she a farmhand and keen horsewoman in her own time
the hills and dales of the english countryside seen as she gallops her horse
so yes stunning scenery and no doubt it will be a major character also
she has a chance meeting with her farmer neighbour gabriel oak (yep)
he is as wholesome and handsome as she is fearless and beautiful
he proposes on the spot - startled but says she has no need for a man
the use of light and close-ups tells us there is only one way this will end
a turn of events sees him lose his flock and farm - she inherits her own
a childless uncle leaving her his large estate including a huge mansion
including a team of workers that she promises to astound with her work
she has another single male neighbour - a wealthy farmer - he is smitten
on a visit by her he announces he has good pigs - and will you marry me
crikey these lads don't muck around though presumably a sign of the times
she politely announcing she does not wish to be anyone's property - thanks
farmer oak then mysteriously shows up looking for work and is appointed
in another sub-plot a soldier is seen jilted at the alter by his young bride
seems she went to the wrong church - he in despair heads for the hills
and lo and behold ends up on bathsheba's farm and a chance meeting
he in full uniform and armed with a sword proceeds to seduce her
impresses with deft swordplay and a passionate kiss and touch-up
this after her announcement that she has never been kissed - swoon
quite comical really - and more so as he then sweeps her off her feet
a secret rendezvous, a secret marriage, total seduction all in a heartbeat
thinking - probably chapters of a book compressed into a couple of scenes
and more so - what happened to the fiercely independent and proud woman?
back at the estate and wedding party night he reveals himself as the prig he is
poor gabriel - has promised to look after her and is witness to this nonsense
but wait - another twist - soldier-boy spots his real love at a local market
begging and pregnant with his child and a promise from him to save her
but before he can she dies in childbirth - he then wades into a wild sea
suicide apparently so problem solved and bathsheba now free again
months of mourning and good harvests and a happy christmas party
her lonely neighbour now feeling the time is right to get her hand
but at the party soldier boy re-appears - he was saved it seems
hauling his wife away he is shot dead by the wealthy neighbour
prison for him, death for the other - leaving - gabriel - and yep
they all lived happily ever after - as predicted in an early scene
na - nice scenery and great costumes - sure - acting - is fine
but what a fizzer of a story up there on the big screen at least
i suspect the book is hugely rewarding but the film is flawed
assumptions are made, character development is truncated
which may account for the unlikely relationships that form
but - the book readers and the anglophiles will love it...

Friday, 3 July 2015

the church



this gig has been 33 years in the making (and dreaming)
in 1982 soon after arriving in australia i was a fan of triple j
tuned in one day at work and 'when you were mine' blasted out
love at first note - album - the blurred crusade bought on that day
and since then played repeatedly and now as a place of aural solace
a few tunes thankfully making it to bulging set lists since then also
the band just keeps getting better with the latest peak further deeper
that album released last year and almost predictably on high rotation
so unbelievable excitement at the announcement of this mid-2015 tour
the blurred crusade from start to finish followed by further deeper
a dream gig and an australian trip arranged around the sydney show
i get myself to the show early enough to get the position of choice
standing 3-4 metres from stage centre for optimal sight and sound
the place soon fills up with well-mannered and older-generation fans
a looped woman's voice providing appropriate ephemeral atmosphere
dry ice blown on stage builds and dissipates - the wait is excruciating
when the lads finally hit the stage the crowd goes wild - 'good evening'
straight into it - almost with you - and with that it's an instant time warp
and great to again see the ageless peter koppes and a very lithe steve kilbey
new man ian haug looking the part and tim the-rock powles is back of stage
he and utility man craig wilson seem a long way off relatively but we'll cope
second tune - when you were mine - been wanting that live for a long time
no disappointment with the band firing already and obviously well rehearsed
the church does not take their audience at all for granted in their live show
the songs peeled off and each perfectly executed including another favourite
just for you - ian haug simulating the door-knock on his acoustic guitar body
yours truly irresistibly shouting out - yeh wait there - to some peer approval
the song the best love song ever methinks and now heard live is just so - sigh
you took - a regular in their set and absolutely incendiary in context tonight
the intro is mind-blowing and the long instrumental is a blissful aural assault
when the band then connects to close out the song it is totally spine-chilling
and then don't look back - gasp - this band has stayed true to that sentiment
so, so happy with the set and then a promise of more and - oh my god - melt
the recognisable opening notes of life speeds up - a long lost classic tune
inexplicably not on any official album and not heard live in living memory
here on this night it is stunning - like the band has been playing it relentlessly
which they should - it is gloriously long with multiple key and tempo changes
it sounds so contemporary (well yes like the album it follows) - i'm delirious
sk announces a 15 minute break which gives them and us a chance to re-group
and then - further deeper we go - a promise of a bunch of tunes from the album
vanishing man rightfully first and now an unexpected lift in intensity on-stage
ian haug was looking and sounding good before - now he's glowing with pride
and the sound is just incredible with the layered sounds of the album also there
other album tracks played just as well and me thinking i am in aural heaven
the back-catalogue is also plundered for a mix of well-known and rare tunes
there's not a note missed and guitars come and go with each passing track
and the energy levels remain high - sk in particular is all over the stage
doing the splits with his beloved bass a favourite and impressive pose
3 amazing hours of sonic bliss - head back, eyes closed a necessity
soak it all up - it just does not get any better for this long time fan
the only disappointment - it ended - no - the crowd response
apart from the hit single they seemed kind of...reserved...
a few exceptions but mostly it seemed a bit understated
we got them out for 1 encore - more - but it not happen
what an incredible gig - expectations met - and surpassed....

Wednesday, 1 July 2015

darwin (adieu)
















monday 29th of june - a couple of days left in this territory
we wake at wangi falls campground in litchfield national park
this morning's plan is to do the 800 metre hill-top climb/walk
up past last night's treetop destination and celebration point
climbing up to the top of the escarpment and crossing streams
these feeding the tall waterfalls into the large pool down below
it's a quite pleasant scramble up and down using a man-made path
again amazed at the effort people put in to make life easier for others
we work up a bit of a sweat - good - and then we plunge into the pool
there's patches of warm but mostly cold water as we re-visit the falls
another chance to be pummeled by water falling from a great height
we are alone again in this pristine place as we swim back and exit
into the campervan and drive to the equally famous florence falls
a descent down a set of stairs containing 135 steps - count 'em
another beautiful pool and falls but crawling with them tourists
we take a swim anyway to complete the set and then head away
next stop - berry springs - a large tavern first stop for brunch
then a visit to the springs - at any other time it would be amazing
but we have been seriously indulged so no swim - let's get set up
a couple of caravan parks listed and we select tumbling waters
lovely setup, lovely people, restful surroundings so we stay put
an evening re-packing and re-laxing in the quiet under the stars
next day we head back to darwin via palmerston - tidy town it is
there's a few hours to kill before return of the vehicle so we wander
a visit to darwin's fish markets interesting but it's certainly not sydney
then a final stop at east point overlooking the bay and to the ocean beyond
beautiful outlook too - a chance to sit quietly before the final burst of activity
the famous $15 lunch and asahi beer at monsoons bar then return the vehicle
an evening free used up with an enjoyable long walk around the waterfront
destination - stokes hill wharf spotted a week ago from our sailing trip
no disappointment either with an array of nice looking food outlets
we are tempted by crustaceans seafood restaurant and sit outside
full moon too - warm as - oysters, scallops and chilli mud crab
delicious and a wander back to the h hotel through the city mall
next day - breakfast taken at eva's cafe in the botannical gardens
then - sniff - farewell darwin - a near 3 hour flight over to brisbane
though pleasantly spent conversing with a rigger from the gas project
he one of many thousands of workers based off-shore from darwin
a lot learnt in that time and also a mutual respect for the host city
then down to sydney - the loop completed - a wonderful 17 days
so much seen, so much relaxation had and a plan to return...