a central to go

time for a little venture - spring has finally sprung it seems
central otago is celebrating with it's annual blossom festival
alexandra is the hub on this saturday with a street parade and gala
it's celebration time with the seriousness of their winter now passing
we head out of grey and chilly dunedin as early as we can get it together
drive south past milton, hang a right and head for the hills towards central
the mandatory stop at lawrence for scones, coffee and country hospitality
then onward to alexandra and arrival as the locals also start converging
a parade soon underway and a comfortable vantage point is soon found
the monteiths pub - a dark ale and a platter enjoyed in the spring sun
trucks, trucks and more trucks - vintage cars, a pipe band and clowns
a sombre moment with fake-bloodied ww1 dressed soldiers on horses
we enter the ticketed area and peruse the many stalls flogging stuff
manuka smoked eggs, hemp oil and local saffron happily purchased
then a decision - enough - back in the pug and head further westwards
queenstown the target and always a drive of quiet anticipation heading there
arrival means the mandatory sit-on-the-beach and walk-around-the-esplanade
huge ice-cream cones in hand from patagonia - another tradition is observed
market day so quite a few people milling around and also enjoying the sun
head to the digs, check-in, check-ok, shower and then the next tradition
ferg-burger - a snaking queue so ferg-pastry is an option - pies - done
next day - woo-hoo - clear, still skies and a frost-covered windscreen
breakfast taken at the frankton marina - the old post office cafe - nice
then the very easy drive up to coronet peak with hired ski-gear on board
a small queue, a small walk and we're onto the quad chairlift in no time
10:30-ish as we disembark from our transport and admire the views
simply stunning with snow-capped mountains, lakes and blue skies
let the shushing begin as we first follow a wide path then head down
skiing is like bike-riding - never forgotten and the rhythm kicks in
the slopes are a bit crunchy but firm, smooth and accommodating
surprisingly low numbers of fellow skiers and more popular boarders
no complaints there as we arrive at the base and immediately get a lift
the ride up presenting an opportunity to recall past glory skiing days
nothing quite like it really and so happy to get back into the groove
aware also that our recent strict exercise regime provides payback
though after a few runs the knees and leg muscles are being tested
the hint is taken - ferg pies for lunch washed down with a mull wine
looking back up at the steep-ish slopes - conquered - we done good
dudes on guitars providing a nice audio backdrop to this fine scene
the afternoon then spent in the cycle of ride, ski, admire, photo, beer
a determination to stay upright means the limits only pushed in safety
hitting the turbo button only in smooth conditions to get wind-in-hair
hair-happy but legs-stretched so cruise control is the main mode in use
our last run perfectly coinciding with lift shutdown so we bid farewell
the easiest of drives back to our digs and a very welcome hot shower
back to the centre of this universe and a short queue at fergburger
sitting inside devouring their fine fare and some draught speights
all guilt-free - we earnt it - then a  wander and a lakeside drive
an early night for a restful sleep and a fine monday morning
pack up - brekkie at a cottage cafe in arrowtown and head home
but first another tradition to be observed - lunch at mt difficulty
their platter-for-two and pinot-noir samples enjoyed to the max
sitting in the spring sun with no pressure - just more pleasure
driving on - a stop at ettrick to load up with fruit and wood
lawrence again providing the perfectly timed coffee stop
and finally back home with a very full car and bellies
we did it - finally - got on the slopes in nz - more please...

sicario

sicario - the meaning spelt out in text as the film starts
jewish zealots armed with daggers attempting to expel romans
but more ominously for this film - the mexican meaning - hitman
the action starts with a secret daylight raid on a suburban house
heavily armed men in black surround it as a large truck drives up
it crashes through a wall to launch the familiar room to room raid
one man inside is efficiently shot as he attempts to defend himself
our heroine kate (emily blunt) seems to be in charge and perplexed
nothing inside - until they start ripping into the walls to find corpses
and plenty of them - she and others seen vomiting - then an explosion
one of the troops opening a hatch in an outside shed setting off the trap
crikey - it's all very full-on and actually quite realistic it feels - liking it
there is now concern that the cartels are so deep into american territory
this done with a realistic looking tv news item about the house of horror
it seems kate has a reputation that sees her then in a casual job interview
married? - divorced - kids? - no - wanna help deal with drug cartels? - sure
matt (james brolin) wants her on board and so tells her she has to volunteer
she and him then seen boarding a private jet and joined by one serious dude
he being alejandro (benicio del toro) - gives nothing away while matt sleeps
some stunning footage of the small shadow of the jet over hostile terrain
a suggestion we are indeed heading into alien territory on this mission
they land in mexico and are then seen as part of a convoy of vehicles
some kind of raid - many heavily armed suvs branded as federal police
the town they are in is in squalor - there are people hanging and mutilated
a comment made that the cartels do that to remind people who is in charge
it's all quite confronting but i'm happy to go with it - it does seem plausible
high-tech surveillance and guidance systems means targeting is precise
so the nab their man and back-track out of the place without incident
but at the border crossing the remaining unmarked vehicles hit a snag
traffic has stopped are they are warned armed men are in other cars
those men are stalked, confronted and taken out with precision gunfire
back at home base kate goes nuts - her fbi persona screaming 'illegal'
but a reminder that this group is acting on orders from high - forget it
some time out then sees her at a bar and introduced to a baseball star
they hit it off and back at her pad she spots evidence of cartel links
it then turns violent with some very impressively acted fight scenes
alejandro (hitman) shows up at the nick of time to nab her assailant
she then suspecting she is being used as bait - too late - in too deep
the team then receive a tip-off about the location of a covert tunnel
and in they go - complete with night-vision cameras and weaponry
we see most of the action through the cameras and so more realism
a shootout and emerging on the mexican side in a large warehouse
a corrupt policeman seen unloading bags of cocaine from his car
alejandro then orders him to drive and they latch onto a luxury merc
the policeman shot, the merc driver then ordered to drive to his base
this being the home of the main cartel head they have been targetting
he responsible for the beheading and acid-bathing of alejandro's family
upon confronting him he says - nothing personal - alejandro - it was for me
of course the hitman then takes out the boss and his own wife and 2 sons
the end - but for a final scene of young mexican boys and a game of soccer
one lad the son of the corrupt policeman - and there's explosions nearby
normal life it seems in this most desperate of places - mexico - na - pass
the film closing out with some more eerie music from johann johannson
so well done - take a bow dennis villenueve (enemy, prisoners, etc)
there's talk of a sequel as it will be a critical and commercial success
the mixture is right - realism, violence, guns, sex, drugs...and...music

13 minutes

mostly lukewarm reviews for this film but ignoring that
a missed and compelling piece of history under the spotlight
georg elser - a german driven to try and assassinate adolf hitler
straight into it in the opening scenes as he prepares a huge bomb
alone, in secret, in a darkened building with a mouth-held torch
the significance of the building explained with scenes of a speech
hitler addressing the troops and announcing austria's now allegiance
he interrupted with a note advising his car won't start - a mental note
elser has made the final preparations and hoofs it to the swiss border
he is arrested for wearing a badge of the illegal communist party
and curiously he has bomb and building plans on him still - why?
the bomb explodes but hitler had left the building 13 minutes earlier
seems his transportation issues lead to an unplanned early departure
8 people are killed and soon enough the connection to elser is made
hitler famously sees his escape as divine approval for his actions
he orders that elser is interrogated to determine his collaborators
a raid on elser's home town has all his family and fiance arrested
reich criminal director arthur nebe is first seen interviewing elser
he is soon joined by gestapo chief heinrich muller - heavy dudes
a bit of a good-cop-bad-cop routine develops with these 2 chaps
nebe seemingly believing and impressed by elser acting alone
muller (and hitler) wanting the names of his co-collaborators
elser's first act of defiance is to bravely sing to his interviewer
this then nicely segueing to lakeside scenes some 8 years earlier
elser seen on an accordian in a musical group entertaining friends
happy days and a nice insight into a carefree time before the war
elser is a womaniser also and is soon pursuing already married elsa
their love story in the small german village in itself is quite compelling
the growing sense of nationalism a clear reminder of how it can happen
but then back to the present and elser's defiance is irking his captors
nuller starts the beatings and torture to extract the required names
elser refusing to provide basic details such as his name and birthdate
it's hard to watch these scenes but i am grateful for the sense of reality
relief for him and us when elsa is brought in with a threat of torture
fearing for her he agrees to provide a full confession of the bombing
and then another flashback to more recent times to fill in some gaps
nationalists and hitler youth in his village at odds with many adults
they then marginalised and derided for their religion or beliefs
of course a common scenario in many times and in many places
and here done in such a realistic way with no sledgehammering
we know the outcome of this and elser similarly sees the danger
he confides with a friend that he has decided a bold act is required
hitler and his top leaders need to be taken out - and he goes to work
elser has been a clock-maker, a carpenter and is currently a turner
his skills, intelligence and determination combining on his project
over a long period of time he gathers equipment and explosives
all the while his love story with now divorced elsa is played out
back to the present and his captors still demanding more names
providing accurate details of how he built the bomb saves him
and with the full breakout of war then distracting his captors
5 years later we see them again with muller arresting nebe
he being part of the stauffenberg plot to assassinate hitler
a suggestion then that nebe was directly influenced by elser
more squirming with a scene of nebe hung by a piece of wire
elser is next seen in dachau concentration camp but looking ok
he spends his days making zithers - until someone issues an order
he is lead away from his cell and shot point blank in his head
the end - and the end of film text provides some sad details
this happened 2  days before the camp was finally liberated
but not before 55 million people perished in this brutal war
a clear reminder of what could have been but for 13 minutes
if this was fiction it would be impressive but it is factual
not sure why the average reviews - for me - essential...

kapukataumahaka

there's 3 ways to get to the summit of mt cargill (676 metres)
drive - not today thanks - and 2 walks of 3-4 hours round trip
bethunes gully reads as a place worthy of a visit so it is selected
a short drive down an unsealed road at the end of north-east valley
park the car, on with the jacket and backpack and a-hiking we go
it's immediately impressive with a path cutting through a reserve
a loudly running stream, grassed areas, swings, a bar-b-que area
all surrounded by very tall pines housing some happy bellbirds
we agree this will be a perfect picnic spot one summer evening
but today it is a place of transience only and so it is a fleeting visit
a gentle wander up the clearings and a bridge crossing the stream
then into what looks, feels, smells and sounds like a real rainforest
a pleasant surprise really - the path is wet but is well maintained
the radiata (?) pines are huge - 40-50 metres tall and straight
dappled sunlight on this relatively warm afternoon a nice effect
the path turns regularly - no single stretch more than 5-10 metres
the canopy now quite thick and ferns, etc now also dominating
so a sense of not really knowing what lays ahead except upwards
pre-walk reading suggesting an easy walk and a choice to be made
do the bethunes gully loop or divert at some point to mt cargill's peak
we cross small bridges, admire small waterfalls and take in some views
but the path keeps going and going - nearly an hour later is decision time
we have climbed up a long way and still a way to go to the visible summit
our party splits - but an urge to continue sees more uphill walking activity
a couple descending interrogated - there's a fork about 700 meters ahead
and only 15-20 minutes to the summit - encouraging words so pushing on
some 15 minutes later the fork is reached - but no real choice is available
down via a different track to another car-park or 30 minutes to the peak
oh well come this far and the antenna actually looks quite close up there
but the terrain has changed - the graded track now more demanding
in parts maneuvering boulders, puddles or a set of steep, large steps
the heart is pumping, the legs are heavy and the clothing now soaked
stops are often but the views are stunning out across the peninsula
a group of people taking up prime space in the tussock for a picnic
another sign then spotted - 5 minutes to the summit - and fresh legs
striding to the top and the very impressive installation is investigated
a few cars and people having made the easy journey up - phooey
the panorama is superb from the city at right to warrington at left
fortunately the weather is also on side so time taken to enjoy it
then - reverse mode - back down the same path taken up
walking quite quickly and a feeling - yep - the knees are ok
(longer walks and/or a ski trip can be comtemplated/planned)
50 minutes down and double that up - less than 3 hours advised
feeling quite exhilerated by it all really as we drive back to the city
looking up at the peak - woo-hoo - conquered that - give it a tick
beer and chips considered - coffee and potatoes taken instead
very happy to have made the effort to discover this great walk
we shall return - at least to base camp for a summer picnic...

ever the land

the price of peace - a very memorable documentary at nziff 2015
tame iti featured prominently in that film - as did the tuhoe people
this film is more focused on tuhoe - particularly after the agreement
that document signed with the crown in 2014 and a landmark event
scenes of that in the prior film quite moving and pricking my curiosity
so an easy decision to take in this film as a sort of unofficial follow-up
but more focussed on the project to construct a communal building
we're looking out a window to a valley on a wet day as a bus pulls up
then as voyeurs to several meetings where the project is being discussed
all very casual, friendly and respectful of any person wanting to comment
seems the tuhoe people have a large pool of money available to spend
some want to use it to improve the housing conditions of a lot of people
others want to make a statement and build something more symbolic
the decision is taken to move on with building a large communal centre
te papa architect ivan mercep brought on board to design the building
even at age 84 he is keen to assist and throws himself into the project
there's a brief to make the building as self-sustainable as possible
community involvement in the process is also a high priority
as is the stipulation that locally sourced materials are used
so we see scenes of mud-bricks being formed and trees logged
the trees used as supporting poles and the bricks used in walls
as the film progresses the director's intent becomes quite obvious
there's very little dialogue and text provided as in most documentaries
the low-key, casual nature of the people is reflected in the film style
many scenes of people just going about their business as the camera rolls
some seems of little consequence to the building itself but that may be the point
a feeling that what the director is trying to do is provide a connection with tuhoe
mothers seen reading to children, mates gathered around a guitar and chatting
meat being hacked up and dropped onto a bar-b-que, beers being shared out
pretty average stuff really - again - that's the point i suspect - people's lives
and all this shown without comment, voice-over or explanation - just images
surely the intention being to allow us to feel like we are part of it all - done
the building itself takes shape and in particular the prominent frontage
2 huge curved beams of timber slabs are joined as a symbolic entrance
inside we hear about how the mud bricks aid in temperature control
one lady expert delighted with that and the placement of windows
there are also banks of solar panels in place to aid sustainability
it's all very impressive - we dwell on it all with 2 ladies inside
just looking on at the expanse of it - 'beautiful' is said often
the film's moving climax is the official opening of the building
a large crowd of guests seen slowly moving past the entrance way
maori warriors leading the way and a wero (challenge) is presented
the silhouette of tame iti seen as the person picking up the branch
this serious ceremony always sombre and always quite moving
the sense of occasion well encapsulated in this part of the film
but then it all relaxes as we also see children cutting flax ribbons
some speeches from representatives of the crown and it's done
there's a pervasive sense of contentment in the tuhoe community
me - ditto - feeling quite mellowed by it all and a want to visit
that feeling working well with the final scene out the same window
a bus pulls up - a lady gets off and walks towards us - coming home?
but possibly also a subtle invitation to viewers to make the journey
a mental note made for a visit on the next trip to the bay of plenty
the film certainly making it clear this is a welcoming community
with their new and impressive building central to that feeling
nicely done - the rolling credits mentioning a lot of people
very glad to have taken the time to be part of this project...

purakaunui beach

weird old day - early spring - snow on the hills and in the air
the day spent largely indoors regularly tossing wood on the fire
sunday excursion plans thwarted by a rearguard action by winter
but a mid afternoon break in the weather aligning with the tides
our destination of choice requiring low tide for the best result
stage 1 - drive out to port chalmers and up and over the hill
take the right to purakaunui and then soon the left to osborne
past that town and follow the narrow shingle road to the end
a sign warning the road not suitable for vehicles so the car parked
double jackets and beanies taken on and follow the track onwards
no idea how far this will be - can't hear or see any sign of a beach
a pleasant amble though - dodging puddles the main pre-occupation
high rock cliffs on one side - a pine tree forest the other - and no rain
the 4wd-only track then becomes dominated by sand so a good sign
and then the ocean is in view and we are onto a long flat empty beach
the sun peaking out and a few gusts of wind providing a stunning sight
it's tempting to take the long walk along the desolate beach to the right
but there's caves to be found and explored so we head left and westerly
clamber up a set of wooden steps and a choice - up to the pa or push on
the pa can wait - we drop down onto another beach on a protected bay
just beautiful - there's whitecaps and large surf to be seen in the distance
but here - calm, gentle and sheltered with a rock-face immediately behind
agreement on a superb picnic, swimming, day-trip spot for summer times
and a beach-ambling we go - and scrambling over rocks also required
the tide not fully out yet so we have the choice of rocks or wet feet
and in the distance under a huge rock formation we can see a hole
there's light emanating at the base indicating it's a walk-through
we edge closer and excitement levels build - the caves are found
a walk on sand through the first with the ceiling just about heads
emerge from that and into a second one of similar size and height
on the flat sand we see some homosapiens coming towards us
coming from the other access point at doctors point we agree
the threatening rains start so we assume a spot in the first cave
and a plan is hatched - we could easily park here for a night
bring a stretcher, food, lamp and cooking equipment - yee-haa
but then oops - high tide would surely spoil the party - oh well
the rain is light and insistent but we are warm, dry and content
as it passes there's a clearing in the sky with nature at it's best
photos snapped but nothing can capture this place at this time
reversing our steps back and a quick look at the place of the pa
the rain threatening again so a promise to return for research there
a farewell to this stunning place and a walk back along the path out
15 minutes later we arrive at the car just as it really buckets down
lucky us - we have been blessed with a break in the weather
another discovery of another stunning spot on the peninsula
back home the fire is stoked and the red wine is poured
taken with a very tasty seafood chowder - good days...

last cab to darwin

i've been looking forward to seeing this one for a while
for one it traces a road trip similar to our own mid-year jaunt
but the main appeal is that ed kuepper has composed the music
there are other big names involved too so anticipation levels high
the film opens in broken hill where cab-driver rex lives and works
he has no family, lives alone and enjoys spinning vinyl records
atlanta rhythm section - so into you - sees him grooving away
masters apprentices and richard clapton also heard and enjoyed
early scenes feature rex driving around town plying his trade
he picks up a mate and his latest conquest - mum's the word
soon after with his mates in a pub she is the publican's wife
at home he is seen joshing with his neighbour over the road
polly is an aboriginal woman who gives it as good as she gets
also moments of tenderness between them sitting on the porch
she concerned about his health and suggests a visit to the doctor
there we learn his stomach cancer has returned with a vengeance
he is told he has 3 months to live but typically he keeps that quiet
until he makes a call on a talkback radio show to a euthanasia doctor
it just so happens everyone he knows is tuned in and hears his confession
at first thinking - na - not likely - but then - well - talkback radio is king
nicole farmer (jacqi weaver) is the darwin-based doctor (philip nitschke)
in a flash rex has decided to seek her assistance and so drive to darwin
not one for hospitals or fond farewells he leaves a letter and heads off
and with that mr kuepper's sublime soundscape music really kicks in
stunning scenes of australia's dead heart best seen on a big screen
a road train streams past him leading to a smashed windscreen
pulling in at the nearest town - william creek - and into the pub
familiar too - we spent time there in a lake eyre flight stopover
which just adds to the very authentic feel of this fine aussie film
there a young aboriginal man hanging around repairs the windscreen
part payment being a ride in rex's cab to his home town of oodnadatta
tilly is a bit of a home town hero there - selected to play afl for essendon
he has a wife and kids and a confidence problem so didn't take the gig
rex warms to him as do we - he's a good-looking, fun-loving larrikin
there's also a club in darwin interested in his skills so he now on board
at a roadhouse along the way a blonde english barmaid serves them
she is instantly smittnen with tilley - ah yes - the romantic element
though rex is also putting into calls to polly and declaring his love
she not having it though - angry that rex has left his house to her
funny scenes at the roadhouse when tilly performs to the crowd
the butcher song - you but-cher left foot in, your left foot out....
totally feel good - not a hint of racism with this white crowd
tilly and julie hit it off and there's now 3 in the drive north
she is a qualified nurse so can also tend to a now ailing rex
they soon roll into darwin and straight to doctor farmer's clinic
she a little wary of rex's expectations to be quickly euthanised
a reality check with lawmakers imposing very tight conditions
various experts needing to sign off on his state of mental health
giving time for the film to further develop our 3 lead's relationships
rex is now in a physical mess and entirely dependent on nurse julie
tilly joins the afl club but sadly also hits the bottle with his mob
polly finally declares her love for rex - 'always have loved ya'
out of desperation julie agrees to use the euthansia kit on rex
and as the liquid enters his vein - he rips it out - ah - polly
bids farewell to julie and high-tails it back to broken hill
the final scene has him on his porch with her next to him
he will die - but not now - there's a happy ending to be had
what a great film and with a superb soundtrack in the mix
so much else to like about it also but mostly it's honesty
there's no sugar-coating of life in outback australia
just a lot of hardened but genuinely good people
so for that the film has hit home brilliantly...