giorno 60 - finale

our last full day in italy starts before dawn with work issues
a few calls have to be made to clients down under in australia
but the early start rewarded with sunrise over a foggy valley
the view from our little house in our little town will be missed
most of the day then spent enjoying quiet time around the town
a last trip to rome is then made with a drive to piazza del popolo
the car parked riverside, a walk over the bridge and we are there
first up is a coffee shakarato at the nearest cafe to the quiet piazza
a prior plan to indulge in a segway tour is discussed but scuttled
more tempting is the opportunity to simply wander the streets
and so it is on a relatively cool evening in a relatively quiet city
we head south along via del corso with a view to palazzo venezia
one option being to then ascend the steps there for a final view
but before that we have a determination for a final gelato treat
delicious too and savoured as we cruise along this fine street
this part of town is a premium location for specialist shops
window-shopping the best option with plenty of fine displays
people-watching is also indulged with many demanding attention
the street artists in particular seem to be of a very high standard
possibly inspired by an exhibition with a short queue formed
banksy - the one and only now famous street-artist from london
it takes us about 2 seconds to agree - that's for us and in we go
we have totally enjoyed inspecting traditional art and museums
but most of it beyond our reach symbolically or intellectually
here in front of us is modern art that needs no questioning
the message is always clear, hard-hitting and socially aware
war, poverty, consumerism, imperialism all deftly challenged
a common simple yet intricate style seen in all the art displayed
this is a modern master's work - it will only grow in appreciation
and value of course with most here loaned from 'a private collection'
an hour or so knocks it over and we are then back out on the street
possibly inspired we then purchase a couple of framed photographs
dinner time - and a want to have a special meal on our last night
so we are more picky than usual as we inspect many menus
and ignore more hawkers than usual looking for the spot
seen as an empty table in a small restaurant in a busy lane
just inside the door so close to the action but also private
spaghetti vongolese, seafood gnocci and frascati wine
perfect - the generous and rich trifle-like desert too much
it beats us and we walk away with very contented tummies
back to the car and a trouble-free final cruise out of rome
the radio station playing an eclectic mix of classic tunes
an easy drive up the hill to torrita tiberina - good night...

giorno 59 - roma

we're down to 2 full days left of our 60 day italian odyssey
with so much more to see that will keep for a sure future trip
and so much seen and locked into the (digital) memory bank
there are a few places in rome we want to visit before we leave
first up - the basilica of st john's lateran - the mother of churches
the seat of the pope and therefore the number one catholic church
unlike st peter's at the vatican it is relatively ignored by tourists
and on approach it's grandeur is hidden and it's grounds - decayed
security is an ignored x-ray machine in a small tent at the entrance
but stepping inside - it's yet another oh-wow moment - it is h-u-g-e
and cool, and silent, and inspiring of a slowing in the clock of life
happy to once again go into very low gear and just wander around
most impressive are the giant-like statues of the twelve apostles
set in 2 rows of 6 facing each other and leading up to the nave
the ceiling - way up there - gold in colour and content no doubt
and the floor - exquisitely fine patterns of multi-coloured marble
a modern looking 3d black and white stair effect at both sides
as we work our way to the front we spot the famous chair
the popal throne is sitting prominently in a centre position
also quite contemporary looking and glowing in the light
time taken to ponder the historical significance of this place
as we exit we agree - this basilica is up there with st peter's
outside we search out and find the ancient egyptian obelisk
the world's largest - 330 tonnes of upward pointing granite
next is a re-visit to the pantheon to get more understanding
last time we missed out on audioguides  - not so this time
so a very informative time as we are lead around inside
the construction of the open circular roof most revealing
aside from the many religious and cultural references inside
a walk then to capitoline hill to make a final museum visit
we pay the money down and enter the musei capitolini
there's a few famous exhibits and a whole lot more as well
with so many rooms full of engraved slabs, busts and statues
of huge historical importance no doubt but it is overwhelming
we find the statues of the she-wolf and aurelius on horseback
and decide - enough for today - mission accomplished - dinner
over the bridge, down the steps and we pick a seafood restaurant
seated next to the river, a full moon and a comical waiter/owner
we enjoy spaghetti vongolese, frito misto, wine and cannoli
and the penultimate drive out of rome and up to our home town
the 5 night festival has finished so all are tucked up in bed - ditto...

giorno 58 - alberobello

a very pleasant stay is had in our 5-star hotel in outer bari
a buffet breakfast is part of the deal in the busy restaurant
it seems like a lifetime ago since being part of that scene
random strangers gathering around the troughs for food
but pleasant enough and entirely practical for today's plans
then into the car and pushing further down the eastern coast
a very specific target about an hour's drive away - alberobello
this unique town also featured on the italy top-to-toe tv series
it's all about the small houses and their cone shaped stone roofs
we spot a few on approach to the town and more as we enter
parking is at a premium with this place a clear tourist hotspot
with the car abandoned we then walk around the narrow streets
it is all so pretty - white houses with grey roofs and blue sky
many of the small houses are homes and others are shops
a few open for inspection to see the construction up close
the many streets running up, down and around the town
every turn of every corner revealing another stunning view
and the locals happy to be part of the culture of this place
a couple seen preforming a traditional song and dance
one elderly gentleman showing off spinning top skills
another lady seen making pasta while selling fresh figs
a stash of those bought and consumed while wandering
more dried figs added to the collection before coffee calls
we admire the views at a point over-looking a large area
pointy roofs dominating the scene across and over the town
and a cafe spotted - a seat taken and coffee shakaratos downed
we then bravely plunge into the area of the heaviest foot traffic
diving in and out of some of the many small boutique shops
a photography shop offers all manner of photos of the town
there's a wine shop making use of the constant temperature
this explained in a shop of locally made miniature houses
the workers there explaining the triple density construction
meters thick at the base to support the layered stone roof
fascinating and we agree this town has justified our journey
which needs to be resumed - we have a 5 hour trip to complete
this time we cut across italy at a lower point towards naples
the landscape flatter but the rural scenery still impressive
it all looks quite lush even after months of little or no rain
and clearly prime agricultural land for orchards and vineyards
we plan a stop at the royal palace at caserta north of naples
punch it into the digital navigator and follow instructions
as we climb up a secondary road we realise our mistake
the reggia di caserta is a hilltop castle - oops not the palace
interesting but underwhelming compared to others elsewhere
and with this a realisation that maybe over-exposure is upon us
we then head directly to home to complete the long round trip
torrita tiberina has the final night of it's food and music festival
we gladly indulge in the fine and cheap food and wine on offer
ditto the entertainment - another male has-been or wanna-be
mostly recorded music with bad actors on drums and keyboards
his booming patter between songs hiding the lack of applause
a few songs is more than this musical snob can cope with
besides - we have had a long day - over and out - zzzzzz

giorno 57 - bari

we have a want and now a plan to visit the east coast of italy
this a 2 day trip with an overnight stay at some random place
or possibly on board a ferry to and then back from dubrovnik
our other side-trips in italy have been well planned in advance
mainly due to the presence of other people - this time - wing it
the first part of the journey is cutting straight across to pescara
and what a fine trip too - once again the autostrade impresses
in this case particularly the road through the mountainous middle
a fairly constant (high) speed is maintained despite the landscape
with no end of tunnels and high bridge overpasses on the journey
so the changes in the height and direction of the road are only slight
a bit of a drivers paradise really with the high mountain backdrop
the car radio tuned into an ad-free station offering familiar music
not much traffic either so the so the 3-hour journey is easy and fun
pescara is a large town on the adriatic coast that comes and goes
our schedule is such that a fleeting visit only is possible today
and that is all that seems required as nothing of note is seen
a perceptible change is noted in the houses and streets here
this town and the general area seems to be largely functional
a feeling that the recent economic hardships in italy is evident
we decide to get closer to the action and avoid the autostrade
so the prior main road to bari is taken - and more depreciation
it's a bumpy old road and for the first time litter is a problem
lots to see though with large plantations of fruit and olive trees
grapes also seen in large and clearly commercial quantities
and another industry - prostitutes seen in clear daylight
strategically placed along the road in the hot sun - what?
we approach bari from the north and head first to the port
large ferries and cruise ships are docked in the distance
we end up in a car queue and are pointed to the correct place
sadly (or not) there is no dubrovnik sailing today - come at 5am
so that settles our plans - we'll stay landlocked on the east coast
we drive and park the car in bari central and go into wander mode
first stop is castello normanno-svevo - a 12th century seaside castle
sea on one side, a moat on every other - it is small but impressive
inside are some fixed displays and a/v presentations - thanks
in the historical centre of town it's all about marble streets
a couple of large churches of which one is hosting a service
st nicholas is buried in a crypt here so that is locally important
over a beer we decide to park ourselves in bari and book a hotel
a 20 minute drive then to the outskirts and into a ghost town
high-rise buildings, shops, parks, businesses - but no-one
public holiday? holiday season? economic hardship?
who knows but our 5-star hotel is a welcome oasis
we enjoy a meal there and a very comfortable sleep...

giorno 56 - anzio

the days are numbered so we need to pack in a few trips
today - anzio - a town on the coast south-west from rome
via frascati - kind of in that direction and on the to-visit list
admittedly the appeal there being the town named after a wine
or most likely this popular wine named after the region it is from
the usual easy drive down the autostrade and then a gentle climb
the road passing through large areas of vineyards towards the town
it's a large town and looking very quiet early on this sunday morning
we see a sign pointing to a villa so we drive even further up a road
surrounded by trees and a huge wall makes it a little bit daunting
but at the top we arrive into the carpark of the villa now a hotel
we are not alone - plenty of cars - but no humans seen anywhere
so the views are taken in and admired before a return to the town
we find the main piazza and enjoy savouries and a glass of frascati
a nice chilled white wine that we think is similar to nz pinot gris
setting us up for a wander around to check out the town and views
the church bells are tolling and more people are now strolling (groan)
our impression is that most people are locals enjoying the sunny-day
good-o - tick - and moving on - back in the car and heading west
anzio is a popular seaside town on the coast south west from rome
today is a sunny and hot sunday in peak holiday season in italy
so you would expect the beach to be a popular place to hang out
yep - we cruise around and eventually and luckily score a carpark
the neighbouring beach is dominated by matching sun umbrellas
each umbrella sheltering a family or couple from the harsh sun
a few people in the water but most are just lounging or playing
we take refuge in a bar and watch over some cool refreshments
the urge to get in the water waning as we look for an entry point
pass - instead we walk along the beachfront towards the old town
it's a busy marina here with ferries loading for island excursions
also a line-up of mostly empty, large and unappealing restaurants
the walk around the town confirming it is not premium real estate
a feeling this stretch of coastline is home to average italian families
good to see so many enjoying this amazing summer - we move on
we finally made it to anzio on attempt number 4 - tick that box
let's head to rome for the evening - not many of those left here
as we get closer a decision is made - na - let's head home instead
it's the 3rd night of the torrita tiberina festival so we'll party there
good call as we then observe a gridlocked freeway into rome
back at party central once again we enjoy some local food
we have a table right at the front ready for tonight's show
which starts well enough - dancers, a band and loud music
a tina turner tribute act cranks up the crowd for the main man
with him onstage it takes only a few seconds to lose interest
a sad case of a once-popular star now milking the live circuit?
he fluffs his lines, looks dodgy and takes himself too seriously
a few songs tolerated before we slip away and return to home
but our pad is very close so there's no escaping the loud music
which goes on...and on...and on...into the hot and still night
damn - plans for a good sleep prior to the next big day thwarted....

giorno 55 - sant'oreste

saturday and a trip to the fiumicino airport planned later today
the ladies from shanghai are returning but time for an outing
something close - something memorable - sant'oreste will do
40 minutes away and perched on top of a hill and the views!
it's a double-banger hill - town on one - a higher peak the other
we drive up as far as we can on the lookout hill, park and peruse
the view down on to the town and then east beyond to rural lazio
quite beautiful really as we pick out now known towns and places
driving back into the town we park as close as we dare and walk
a few minutes later we are strolling around the familiar old town
there's a sign advertising a music festival on over this weekend
italy is definitely in party mode in this month of holiday season
another sign spotted - gelataria - why not - 3 of them - 5 euros
and so we wander as we lick and check out this familiar place
most of the activity seems related to setting up for partying
the small piazzas we enter each have small stages and tents
currently abandoned food stalls are also part of the scenery
a very pleasant wander had around this quite unique town
stopping every few metres to admire the view back to rome
a round circuit has us back at the car - into it - and down we go
next stop - the nearby shopping outlet centre visited once before
then on a weekday it was pretty well abandoned - today maybe not?
ah well - a few more cars parked but upstairs it is like a ghost town
weird really as it is quite modern and full of name-brand shops
the ladies do their thing while the lad parks himself in the bar
a beer (or 2) had until meeting time and then back home we go
packing and stuffing 4 people and 2 sets of gear into a tiny car
it still travels admirably down the autostrade and to fiumicino
we get the shanghai bound mother and daughter despatched
phew - it's been a fun few weeks but hard work for one of us
so tonight - let's party - rome? - na - let's head back to home
after a much needed house clean we walk up into our town
part 2 of the torrita tibberina music festival is on tonight
so over a easy meal at our favourite cafe we take a listen
the local brass band has the stage tonight with a small crowd
a few off notes but they are trying on some complicated pieces
most are recognised with an emphasis on covers of 60's pop hits
one in particular catches my ear - rain and tears - a nz hit back then
the hi-revving tongues - huh - how come this tune is known here
happy to hear it again as we sit outside enjoying the atmosphere
we are amongst friends in this beautiful night in this fine town
back home and youtube reveals the answer to the tune mystery
demis rousssos also made it a hit - well who would have thunk?
and that closes off another day and another chapter of this trip
5 days and counting - let's pack it in until departure day...

giorno 54 - roma

today is the last full day for our visitors from shanghai
going out with a bang as there's a big party in town tonight
seems torrita tiberina is hosting a music festival over 5 nights
we'll be up for that - but first rome is calling - so we drive south
driving into the heart of rome is easy now and the roads are quiet
we were told the city empties in the peak holiday month of august
the ladies are dropped near the colosseum to start the shopping trek
the driver heads to piazza del popolo where we will meet in 4 hours
a testing trip with google maps as navigator taking a complicated route
finally parking the car and walking across the river to the quiet piazza
a cafe selected and an early lunch, beer and people-watch is enjoyed
another beautiful day and not too hot so a good time to go wandering
a vague plan to track down some art galleries but nothing is definite
walking away from the piazza and immediately into cruise mode
a realisation this part of the city is particularly appealing visually
the tall buildings are clean and the streets seem almost polished
in one back street there are small boutique hotels and restaurants
clearly this is the moneyed part of town and the shops are matching
consistently small but very stylish decor and expensive looking items
shoes, fashion, homewares, perfume, books all on priceless display
the sought art galleries remain elusive so a conclusion is reached
they are there but most likely 'appointment only' to cashed up clients
even the few street artists and human statues reek of a different class
standing there and a wave of tiredness hits so i walk to a nearby church
san giacomo in augusta - inside it is very cool, quiet and welcoming
a high domed centre and opulent decor in gold and matching colours
the neck craned to frescoes on the ceiling way up are also stunning
a sit down to take it all in and of course tiredness turns to a snooze
sneaking out 30 minutes later, turn a corner and another italian icon
the ferrari shop complete with an f1 car from 2011 and items galore
shirts, caps, pens, cups, bags, tools, posters, models (cars and ladies)
turn another corner and a previously seen building is spotted again
the museo dell'ara pacis is a large, modern, purpose-built art gallery
currently hosting an exhibition by japanese photographer ken domon
an hour to spare for me and happy to spend that time in this place
domon born in 1909 - died 1990 - in between took countless photos
black and white initially but moving to colour much later in his life
a child-loving, anti-war, anti-imperialist social-realist using his art
so many photos seen capturing the innocence and naivety of youth
most memorable being shots of child labour or armed forces training
every photo demands attention so the allocated hour goes by quickly
it's then a brisk walk in the summer sun back to piazza del popolo
the rendezvous made and then a drive to another shopping centre
la rinascente - 6 floors of up-market department store - sunglasses!
found and purchased - next please - food items to take into china
a 2 hour visit then to our regular shopping centre at porta di roma
shopped out and a return to home base and then into party mode
the street decorations are up and alight - bright white and green
down in the town's own piazza there's food and wine on offer
a 4 course meal - 10 euro - a bottle of wine - 3 euro - so cheap
it's a big turnout of locals including families of 3 generations
it's a real honour to be welcomed here and we feel part of it
at 10pm the guest band fires up - the 11 piece orchestraccia
2 drummers at rear, a line of 3 guitarists, keyboards, trumpet
and out front 4 male vocalists harmonising or in turn soloing
impression - very, very good - italian vocals and feel of course
but with it an international flavour - hip-hop, rock, pop, singalong
a timely solo spot for an acoustic guitarist indicates experience
evidenced more with a side-of-stage view to see the band at work
they are professional and with it are obviously having genuine fun
surely used to - or deserving of a bigger stage and crowd - womad?
we take the minute or 2 to walk home and settle in for a good sleep
day of rest? not likely - too much still to see and do here in italy
which had me thinking - give a little of yourself - gain a lot
this country does seem willing to keep laying it on for us
happy about that as we start the countdown - 6 days - sniff...

giorno 53 - paduva - bologna - siena - torrita tiberina

a big day of travel today - our northern italy trip is over
we have to cover close to 500km to get back to home base
we pack, fire up the toy-motor and slip out of padua at 10am
the first planned stop is at bologna 120km to the south-west
reached with an easy trip on the fine italian autostrade system
we have one point-of-interest only for our brief visit to bologna
the car left in a supermarket car park and we hike for 15 minutes
destination - piazza maggiore otherwise known as bologna central
memories of a trip some 10 years prior rush upon entering this place
also a brief visit and as then there's a strong feeling of disconnection
the imposing (and unfinished) san petronio basilica dominates here
some scaffolding and seating for an outdoor cinema clutter the piazza
as does security fencing leading up to the basilica - it's all quite ugly
inside the scale is grand but it is also quite sterile - st peter's it is not
the scowling of the not-seen-before photography guard is negative
so a quick walk around is taken and out of there to find our target
easily done too at the neighbouring archiginnasio of bologna
within this ancient university is the famous anatomical theatre
known by us thanks to the documentary series 'italy unpacked'
a modestly sized all-wood room where early surgery was taught
a marble-slab table at centre used for dissection of human bodies
unique wooden 'skinless' statues on either side of the raised lecturn
with other busts and statues including apollo - the god of knowledge
the room has been rebuilt after allied bombing destroyed it in 1945
it does seem sightly less than totally authentic but good to finally see
a brief walk around the hallowed passages of the university is taken
and then a much needed and very strong coffee shakarato is enjoyed
followed by a walk to our waiting car along bologna's famous porticos
we then head to siena - a couple of hours and 175km directly south
driven partly on the autostrade but mostly on a 2 lane slot-car track
it's a fast and fun drive leading to a steady climb up to the town
we ditch the car and walk along a long road between tall buildings
a string of 4 or 5 levelled houses with small shops at ground level
there are a lot of pedestrians in both directions - tourists we guess
and then the road opens onto a large and sloping circular piazza
strange - there's a dusty pathway on the outside edge being hosed
scaffolded seating set up behind at various points - what is this?
google to the rescue - palio di siena - a world famous horse race
due to be run in a few days so preparations are well underway
we stumble around looking desperately for a late-lunch venue
that provided by a small cafe off the beaten track (literally)
strange town - tall grey buildings and narrow lanes dominate
more time is needed here but not today - we retrace our steps
past a set of buildings in grounds surrounded by a high fence
a sign spotted - ospedale psichiatrico - a film comes to mind
one flew over the cuckoo's nest - it's all a bit unsettling really
unfairly another town that has been difficult to connect with
back in the car we cruise down and out of this quite large town
the final stretch to home is 200km mostly on the a1 autostrade
and around 8pm we finally arrive at home base - torrita tiberina
it's been a great trip of 10 days to the north of italy - now - rest...

giorno 52 - paduva

today is a car-free day with the plan to check out inner padua
first up is the scrovegni chapel and the city's top tourist attraction
named after a chap who built it as penance for his life of usury
it dates back to the 13th century and is a much treasured building
15 minutes in an air-lock is required before entering the chapel
and with audioguide in the ear we have only 15 minutes inside
that time spent quickly perusing the walls under it's instruction
there are over 50 separate frescoes fully covering the inner walls
arranged in a series of tiers and telling the story of mary and jesus
the ceiling painted in blue also by giotto to suggest a star-lit night
the paintings themselves - colourful, unique and visually accessible
each one deserves much more time than the few seconds available
which is the major negative here - just not enough time to dwell
before we can blink we are being ushered out but let's not quibble
as with the sistene chapel and the last supper this has been special
the chapel is next to padua's museum of medieval and modern art
our tickets grant us entry so in we go - and upstairs to the gallery
an unexpected immersion then into a full catalogue of italian art
the audioguide providing more information than can be absorbed
again - we are close-up and personal surely with priceless works
so many subjects and styles with of course religion dominating
a side exhibition of tintoretto works is particularly enthralling
his large paintings mixing landscapes in an early abstract style
we spill out of the museum with heads overwhelmed by it all
over a pizza lunch a plan is hatched to visit 5 more galleries
but only one taker as the fine shopping in padua is irresistible
so begins a dash around the pedestrian-friendly centre of town
cars are banned or at least discouraged so it's a fun adventure
the galleries themselves are small and all empty of visitors
possibly the content - modern art, photography and fixtures
the favourite being a series of 365 identically sized photos
each photo taken in a different but consecutive day in 2013
the subject - the sky - often cloudy, or foggy, dark or light
in some photos is seen a plane, a bird, a balloon or the moon
a simple concept and a great execution make it so absorbing
likewise another gallery featuring one artist's modern paintings
abstract and colourfiil oil paintings on flat or enhanced surfaces
the afternoon spent and then a rest up back at our apartment
and into the night - a long walk to a chosen and distant piazza
some form of entertainment has been advertised - but - no luck
possibly a performance in the large basilica - duomo del santo
we decide to take a shot at replicating a splendid first night here
and so back to piazza severi to again sit outdoors for dinner
the lobster linguini is delicious as is the pinot grigio wine
time to reflect on our brief but totally enjoyable stay in padua...

giorno 51 - venezia

a later start than planned but shortly after 9am we are in the car
today is a day trip to venice - an hour's drive east from padua
then across the long bridge connecting the mainland and island
not much choice with parking so 26 euro in a building seems ok
at the nearby ferry stop we agree on a hop-on hop-off day pass
20 euros each - also seems ok and we will get value for money
our first journey takes us by sea around venice to st marco square
we disembark into the milling throngs and shuffle our way along
oh yes - the memories of venice - crowds and heat - are proven true
but with that it's also nice to be back in this unique and special place
we look at the queues lining up for the tower and the basilica - pass
a desire to go further, deeper into the heart of the city is our instinct
and within minutes we are crossing bridges and in narrow walkways
shops, shops and more shops on every street and corner along the way
as many accents heard amongst the many families seem in the crowd
summer holidays are on and so the parents are treating the teenagers
this all in evidence as a break is taken over an iced coffee shakarato
but there's now a plan - we walk through the maze to the other side
board a ferry and set sail on a 40 minute trip to the island of burano
legend has it that the fishermen had a habit of returning home drunk
unable to find the correct house they were all then painted differently
this so the hopelessly drunk fisherman only had to remember a colour
the tradition applies today - at least in the way the houses are painted
it all makes for a quite striking scene when then entering the town
today it's more about tourism as the ferries disgorge passengers
and the restaurants and shops seek to relieve them of their euros
of which we are willing suppliers at a one empty-ish restaurant
mussels, grilled fish, fried fish, bread and beer - very tasty too
a wander around the town and then back on the boat to murano
glass - this large island famous for glass and thus glass retailers
one of the crew is too tired to shop - the ladies have the energy
there's a desire to get back to venice itself - so much to be seen
the next ferry delivers us back at st marco not long after 6pm
a noticeable drop in the crowd size - the tour groups are gone
we sit on the edge of the canal next to the famous bridge of sighs
the gondolas are out in force so it's a pleasure to watch them pass
also parked at this point is an elderly chap sitting in a wheelchair
most of the gondoliers respectfully greeting him as they glide past
we can only guess at the meaning of all this but it adds enjoyment
on our feet we then head to the famous square and join a queue
st mark's campanile is the bell tower rising up a full 99 metres
choice - climb or lift - lift thanks - soon after we are at the top
spectacular 360 degrees views of the island and city of venice
perspective obtained - then down and a walk back into it's heart
a quiet piazza is found and a pleasant outdoor dinner is enjoyed
as the day slips away we decide we better get back on the ferries
which first requires a reversing walk back through st marco's square
there's some live music - pretty average jazz and/or classical is heard
the crowd goes wild though - which says it all - that is the last act
we catch a ferry that cuts through the town and so some great scenes
it really is a unique and quite beautiful place so great to see it again
but - but - but - it is just so over-loved or at least over-exploited
the next trip definitely has to be off-season and for a length of time
sad though - it is sinking and the sea levels are rising - it it doomed?
we recover our car and drive through the night for an hour or so
back at padua we creep quietly upstairs to our accommodation
a rush for showers and bed and it's all over for another day...

giorno 50 - verona

pack up and ship out - we are in transition once again
our 3 days based at cislago over and heading to padua
a cross-country trip via autostrade across northern italy
very busy roads with plenty of trucks and general traffic
the terrain is quite flat and a range of mountains seen north
inexplicably though we also pass through several long tunnels
about 3 hours later we are cruising into the small city of verona
the plan being to spend the afternoon checking the sights here
arena parking signs grab our attention and lead us to that area
with the car abandoned in an underground parking station
we then load up and walk aided by google to the city centre
weird - no sign of an arena - surely it would be quite prominent
turning a corner and the lower than anticipated structure is seen
shades of the colosseum in design, shape and fractured condition
outside several large wire cages host piles of large fake weapons
and off to another side are some huge transformer-ish soldiers
ah - opera season - props no doubt for shows inside the arena
our group splits - the ladies - shopping - the bloke - fantasysing
with a ticket purchased for a self-tour of the inside of the arena
much loved scottish band simple minds played here in late 1989
the resultant film of the concert a superb mix of music and venue
and so it is that i walk around the venue with 'waterfront' in mind
it is dug down so inside is much larger than it appears from outside
huge blocks of granite used to make up the circular stepped seating
yet another building that defies belief in how it was constructed
but there it is - and what a brilliant theatre for musical concerts
kraftwerk having recently played a 3d show and now - opera
at ground level rows of red seats laid out in front of a huge stage
thinking - maybe we should score some tickets - na - not our scene
our gang of four then has a rendezvous at the famous juliet's balcony
overrated - a tourist trap - with all due respect to mr shakespeare
we walk down the white and pink marbled main shopping street
lots of name brand shops - jewellery, watches, perfumes, clothing
a reminder of the top-to-toe tv show documenting a trip in italy
and on this street - where everyone dresses up to go shopping
we wander to a market and indulge in yummy pottles of fresh fruit
the 12th century lemberti tower looms up 84 metres in front of us
shall we? you can - i will! so a ticket bought and 363 steps taken
terrific views of course from the top out over greater verona
the old town centred and beyond to the newer spreading city
this place certainly needs more time but we have to move on
back to the car and a drive to the lesser known city of padua
our apartment is quite central and is very nicely appointed
unpack and a-wandering we go on this beautiful evening
we find the central piazza well serviced by restaurants
pick a table - the white linen tablecloth is the clincher
then enjoy the best gnocci and spaghetti had for a while
some fine italian wine recommended to wash it all down
conversations had with a solo chap from nz seated alongside
all the elements combining to provide an almost surreal setting
looking forward to a couple more fine days in northern italy...

giorno 49 - lago como

our current digs are placed midway between milan and como
so it's a very quick and easy cruise up the autostrade to the lake
we pass through flat plains of crops with mountains as a backdrop
so yes similiarities with the scenery of the south island is agreed
the town of como hugs the bottom corner of one arm of the lake
toss the toy-motor into an underground carpark and join a queue
tickets purchased just as the gate opens and we wander on board
we are up for a 2 hour cruise up the lake to the town of bellagio
sitting on an open and covered deck to take in the many views
another perfect day with full sun (and screen) but not silly hot
a few whispy white clouds make for a very picturesque sky
and so it is too with the slowly changing views of lakeside
there are small villages in a near continual line on both sides
all of a similar construction and with red/orange roof tiles
combined with the greenery of the bush it's all very pretty
there are plenty of cameras being clicked on board today
a small cafe also on board allows for a nice cup of coffee
and without the required duty of driving it is very relaxing
a couple of hours slip by easily and we then arrive at bellagio
our all day passes provides for a hop-on hop-off experience
so hopping off for a 40 minute discovery of this lakeside town
mostly spent walking to a pier jutting out into the apex of the lake
the 2 large arms of the lake meet here so it is a unique panorama
back in the town we find a deli and purchase food and drinks
which then lines us up with the next departure to veranno
a short distance away and an easy walk after disembarking
this around the shoreline on a purpose built ramp to the town
we sit ourselves down on some flat steps running into the water
lunch - we consume our cooked chook, bread sticks and iced tea
what a view - behind us an outdoor restaurant offers the same vista
interesting - no-one seen swimming - anywhere - water too cold?
a quick paddle in the cool and clear water is enjoyed anyway
we have time then to clamber up some steps to the town proper
all built around a central piazza hosting a crafts market today
we walk into the church and admire the 12th century frescoes
there's a boat to catch and gelatos to be bought and enjoyed
done so as we wander back to the terminal and on to the ferry
what a fine vessel it is too - a sleek, low and long paddle-steamer
stepping on board reveals the fine condition of this special boat
varnished floorboards, polished brass and leather lounges abound
this is the ferrari of steamboats - proven as it powers off the pier
we are on top-deck and close to the loud horn blasts - yikes!
it's another very enjoyable 2 hour cruise on this ship to como
mostly spent top deck soaking up the sun and an italian beer
or going to the bow to enjoy the warm breeze in the face  
tying up at the como pier takes a couple of attempts
all done in good humour by the lovely italian crew
similarly attired lads and ladies all enjoying their work
and confirming that life and times in italy are taken at ease
it's back home for a risotto dinner, wine and more relaxation...

giorno 48 - milano

we have to be in milan at 8:30am on this saturday morning
the promise of a 20 minute train trip from cislago to be tested
a longer walk than expected to the station and we miss our train
30 minutes later we on a very comfortable train bound for milan
we arrive at milan cadorna station with about 8 minutes to spare
our appointment is at the thankfully nearby basilica di santa maria
2 years ago we were in milan and missed out on the last supper
bookings very much needed in advance - this time we have them
a brisk walk is rewarded with admittance to the 8:30 holding area
viewing of michaelangelo's most famous work is well controlled
30 people at a time pass through various air-locks before the chapel
inside it is cool, dim, quiet and reverential - and up there we see it
it takes a few minutes of solid staring to connect with this painting
but then a rush of references ensure a comprehension of it's relevance
not only the religious meaning but also the deep historical significance
yes - the da vinci code has made it a hot-ticket item but that is transient
as with so much other artwork seen in italy this piece transgresses fashion
fearing for eviction every moment in the chapel is spent with eyes fixed
soon enough a voice announces 'exit please' and we move into reality
naturally that first takes the shape of a shop offering relevant items
which seems a bit crass to me but welcome to the real world - pass
yay - one down and one to go - we are making up for past misses
we walk to the duomo and when we see it - ah it's good to be back
in 2014 we visited the duomo but had no idea about the terraces
surprisingly this morning it is quiet and we are straight into the lift
up we go to emerge on the roof (the terraces) of this great building
words cannot describe the sheer magnificence of what surrounds us
a maze of buttresses, statues, walkways, landings and roof-tops
all done in finely carved stone and marble - the detail is incredible
the structure is such that it must have been first micro-designed
every tiny piece perfectly placed to form an overwhelming whole
it is a totally humbling experience to be in this place at this time
up on the highest roof the views are stunning here and beyond
we see vertically challenged columns topped with exquisite statues
lace-like stone work on walls and barriers defy their construction
and the views to snow-capped mountains and blue skies cap it off
this place has to be ranked as one of the wonders of the (my) world
but wait - there's more - we descend the staircase to enter the basilica
upside - bright and white - inside - dull and grey - but intentionally so
the sunlight glows through the huge panels of stained glass windows
we walk around the huge interior and are overwhelmed once again
one of those places where repeat visits are tempting and rewarding
back into daylight and we pass through the beautiful shopping centre
it's arched entrances, marble floors and high glassed roof entrancing
out the other side we pick an outdoor restaurant for a fine lunch
then agree to split - girls go shopping, boy goes to an art gallery
maurits cornelis escher - the famous mathematically inspired artist
the dumo museo is hosting an exhibition of many of his works
and totally absorbing too - lots of text and audioguide content
metamorphosis 2 is there in all it's glory - his most famous piece
a couple of hours easily spent before the pre-arranged rendezvous
hmmm - a large suitcase has been bought - requiring transporting
a push to the scali bar for a beer and then a decision to join a tram
number 1 offers a round-city excursion of which we do one half
we feel mission is accomplished (both of them) so head home
back on the excellent train system and a return to cislago
it's around 6pm when we get home on this great evening
and a decision to make the most of it - lago como calls
we find the goodies for a picnic and drive north to the lake
a busy town but we snag a park at lakeside and set up our nicpic
as the sun sets and moon rises we eat, drink and chat furiously
in a rare public space beside a large fountain just out of town
totally enjoyable too but night creeps in and so a return home
a relatively early night then had at the end of an incredible day...

giorno 47 - portofino

we're half-way through our excursion around nothern italy
next stay is milan with a few stops planned along the way
but first we go cross-city in la spazia to the europcar office
this journey revealing the size and layout of this coastal city
we also spot the italian naval flotilla that has it's base here
wifi units are swapped and then we set controls for portofino
this involves the usual tangle of roads, ramps and roundabouts
eventually finding ourselves on the autostrade and bound north
we travel quickly through multiple tunnels and admire the views
hills, bush and occasional coastal glimpses dominate the outlook
upon hitting the coast the first town we come to is santa margherita
looking very inviting too and a similarity to the cool amalfi coast
tempted to stop but we push on until we are stopped by the police
gulp - but fear not - we are informed portofino parking is full
choice - go away or park back a way and walk or take a bus
google tells us it's a 45 minute walk - not in this heat thanks
before long we are crammed into a bus of like-minded tourists
and more bodily contact than wanted on the twisting coastal road
spilling out at portofino is a relief as we then head down to the sea
judging by the name brand shops seen this town is moneyed up
silver service restaurants looking for customers but we pass by
the boats moored in the bay tell the same story - mega-richness
one huge cruiser in particular that sniffs at every other vessel
we follow a walkway around one side of the bay just looking
a wine shop is spotted with some food on offer and take a seat
as we do an unexpected and  huge bolt of lightning cracks the sky
it looks like the tall mask of a moored yacht has been the catalyst
frightening really - and then the rain starts as we place our order
it buckets down for a few minutes as we huddle under the umbrella
all good fun really as we eat, drink and watch before heading back
more window shopping as we admire this quite beautiful town
it is clearly well loved and looked after and requires more time
but not today - we are back on a less crowded bus and return
into the car and we head to genoa - 1 hour on the autostrade
often heard of but not much known about this large port city
it's a cursory visit only as we park the car and walk to the centre
on the way we spot a large undercover food market - visit? yep!
it's quiet and some shops closed but there are many that are trading
we buy an assortment of fresh fruits and resist seafood and cheese
prices - so cheap - further confirmation that italy is foodie heaven
we enjoy an iced coffee cocktail and a selection of italian cakes
a brief wander in the city and again a  case of more time needed
but push on we must - milan here we come - actually cislago
a small town just north of milan where we have a house booked
the rendezvous is made, keys exchanged and then a sortie made
we are in a very quiet town - good - with only a few food options
we enter a supermarket just before 8pm and are evicted shortly after
but enough food for a home-made meal and local sparkling red wine
a long day of travel completed and some excitement about a day in milan...

giorno 46 - cinque terre

cinque terre - literally translates to five fishing villages
otherwise it's a collective term for an italian coastal strip
today we are going to visit the towns travelling by train
the choice comes down to train or boat - inaccessible by car
we are slow learners at the moment as we wait in another queue
this time at la spezia train station to obtain the required tickets
cinque terre is a popular tourist destination and it's prime time
we take the train to the end of the line - monterosso at mare
it's been a bit of a late start for us so already it's chockers
even getting out of the train station is quite a slow shuffle
looking down on the water's edge and people are everywhere
hiding under the rows of sun umbrellas or already in the water
townside the shops are busy and the street vendors are hard at it
oh yes the holiday season has kicked in big time - moving on
put a tick against the first town and back on to the next train
vernazza requires a walk down through the town to the sea
the shops and restaurants are full and the narrow lane is busy
pretty town - pastel colours on the houses against the blue sky
there's an enclosed bay with various access points for swimming
we find a spot and consider a swim but a more privacy is wanted
we take a clamber up some steps to an empty looking bar/cafe
sorry - fully booked (though empty) - not interested in casuals
we go into reverse gear and retreat back up through the town
stopping at a customer-free gelataria for a delicious little treat
back on the trains and the next stop is corniglia high up the hill
the theory is this place will be less crowded as it takes an effort
a sign at the station warns of the 382 steps required up to the town
ouch - in this heat too - but we psyche ourselves up for the walk
just as a local bus pulls up offering a one-way trip - thanks - taken
we jam into the bus and enjoy the ride up the narrow twisting road
jump out at the town centre and notice an immediate difference
yes - less people - happy about that as we go into wander mode
we scramble quite aimlessly around various narrow walkways
then are seduced by the cute signs at an empty outdoor cafe
sheltered by a grape vine and direct views down to the sea
yummy salads and cold platters with friendly service follow
with energy levels restored we then decide to walk back
spectacular views are enjoyed as we descend the 382 steps
a few vendors and buskers along the way add some interest
on the flat heading to the station we smirk at oncoming people
they have no idea what a climb they are up for - good luck!
next stop - manarola - another long walk through a tunnel
we cannot resist the fried anchovies - the local specialty
pushing through the town and now determined to get wet
a string of rowboats are moored alongside a concrete pier
that'll do - a plunge into the cool, clear waters is so good
a paddle out into the deeper waters with buoys on offer
this is the real deal and so a good time spent wallowing
upon exit we consider a boat cruise to the starting point
but the cost and the likelihood of a crowded boat are high
we stick with the train which then returns us to la spezia
cinque terre - tick - maybe a future re-visit at off-peak time
the day concludes with a search for a suitable restaurant
so many on offer but a rotund bearded chap wins us over
and then provides fine italian food, wine and hospitality
a slow amble home allows for reflection on a fine day...

giorno 45 - la spezia

florence - ciao - we are up and out of there shortly after 8am
next stop - la spezia - a city on the north-western coast of italy
it's main attraction being the proximity to popular cinque terre
and on the way there's a stop at another very popular town - pisa
so of course the leaning tower has to be visited for the first time
first impression - wow - it really does have a serious lean on
and very picturesque - clean white tower, green lawns, blue skies
the cameras are clicking as we join the other tourists ticking boxes
there are 2 other large buildings - church-esque - on the same site
so time is taken to circumnavigate those and admire their features
incredibly detailed adornment in the shape of laced stonework
and a circle of statues (apostles?) high up on one building
but ouch - it is hot - the whinging americans are not coping
inside the basilica would be cooler but queuing for a ticket?
na - we're keen to get to the coast so we mount up and head off
la spezia is punched into google maps and we follow instructions
but once again we are often confounded by it's chosen direction
in a couple of cases requiring back-tracking to get back on track
but with that we see more of rural north-west italy than planned
hills, tunnels, small settlements, rivers and bush are all seen
a comment that the vista is not unlike parts of nz south island
but more people here too so more towns, roads and travellers
we cruise into la spezia and are surprised at the size of the city
a huge port with an array of all sorts of vessels currently moored
most impressive - the harmony of the seas - a monster cruise ship
actually the largest cruise ship in the world and recently launched
it sits centre of the port and naturally dwarfs every other ship there
we are early for our check-in so we drive north from town - and up
and up - a winding road that offers spectacular views of the town
we push on to the next coastal town and drive down a steep road
riomaggiore is the first town of the cinque terre strip of towns
and full up - no parking anywhere so we back up and head back
stopping at a small roadside cafe way up with views and food
soon back at la spazia we check in to our 3rd floor apartment
the building on a back-street - alas no wifi - and a power cut
we decide to head out for the evening and walk to the port
ending up at the stinkboat marina - whoa - big heavy stuff
unbelievably large and expensive looking cruisers moored
we are temped to try a dockside restaurant but no luck there
too crowded, too late or too boring is the order of the night here
on the way back to town we re-visit a queue seen on the way out
people are waiting to order fresh cooked seafood from a restaurant
we join them, wait 20 minutes or so then enjoy their fine offerings
a wander back to home base through a quietly buzzing town centre
la spezia - we think we like you - less celebrous, more realworld...

giorno 44 - firenze parte 2

we have one full day in florence and a booking for the ufizzi
that set for early afternoon so the morning is set for a climb
the dome of the cathedral is one of the tourist hot-spots here
which explains the snaking queue in place as we arrive there
confusion abounds about the need for tickets to see the dome
eventually that is confirmed as the secretive office is located
too hard - it could be a 2-3 hour wait which is not desirable
the team splits - shoppers and ticket hunters for another venue
a walk to the academy of fine arts - same deal - a long queue
na - not that desperate and further justification - we will return
a feeling that this city deserves more attention at off-peak times
today's best option is to observe and not join the current madness
and so it goes - people-watching to the fore with plenty to see
not the least the way the locals are reaping the tourist boom
there's guided tours going in multiple languages and directions
buskers, hawkers, vendors, and mini-markets on every street
the essentials - cold drinks and gelato - available at every turn
we cannot resist the gelato and select one shop - ouch - pricey
across the road another shop offers the same for half the price
taken - thanks - and enjoyed as we walk towards the ufizzi
which brings another conundrum - we have booked online
but we have to queue up to obtain the relevant paper tickets
which then allows us to queue up to get into the entrance
so that we can then queue up for the (casual) security check
and then queue to obtain the optional but desirable audio-guides
followed by a thankfully moving queue to get into the gallery
phew - just as well we have allocated the afternoon for the visit
the ufizzi is a u shaped building of long corridors across 2 floors
various rooms come off the corridor and each has it's own theme
standing in the first room and all the entry hassles are forgotten
we are looking at a series of huge artworks in various shapes
originally commissioned for various churches in the area
bright, intense, colourful and full of life and characters
an immediate sense that this local italian art is quite unique
which sets the scene for the long, gentle wander that follows
making the most of the audioguide for details on some pieces
total immersion in the paintings, frescoes and sculptures on display
the visitors all moving in the same direction and at a similar pace
with the most famous pieces generally encircled by a large crowd
and also the target of people in selfie mode with their smartphones
which in itself is a bit surprising - there is no restriction on photos
there is some security though - found out when leaning over a barrier
trying to examine one amazingly detailed painting at close range
an embarrassing alarm sound and a near hysterical security guard
3 hours pass by quite easily and senses overload starts to kick in
we agree - this place justifies multiple visits - we shall return
for now - a quick snack and for this one - a quick hike home
some issues to deal with before then walking back into town
over the sunset-lit river again to a pre-arranged restauarant
an outdoor meal and then a long alternative route to the car
returning to play taxi-driver for the 3 tired ladies waiting
more fun had negotiating busy florence streets at night...

giorno 43 - firenze parte 1

time for another side-trip away from our torrita tiberina base
this journey for 10 days to take in 4 cities in the north of italy
the 4 of us and luggage are packed into our toyota aygo rental
this after both a late night and almost all night work session
a relative flood of calls for assistance from monday down under
so the driving is shared for the 3 hour trip on the autostrade to firenze
otherwise known as florence - city of culture and capital of tuscany
we have booked an apartment near the centre of town but - no parking
so the vehicle is abandoned as close as possible and we walk into town
only a few hundred metres to our digs and our host waiting to set us up
done - all good - back to the car and a drive to a famous lookout point
piazza michaelangelo offers a panoramic view of the city down below
it's a small city of uniform coloured buildings and the dissecting river
the hills surrounding making it appear all quite snugly and inviting
a strange phenomenon though - some wet stuff falling from the sky
we take shelter under some umbrellas at a large cafe over the road
and as the rain really starts belting down so we are ushered inside
a reminder of the incredible run of weather we have had this trip
it is all over as quickly as it began and the skies clear once again
we then strategically park the car for the night and walk to the city
within 10 minutes we are crossing the arno river as the sun sets
the rain seems to have cleared the air and it all looks beautiful
looking up river to the iconic ponte vecchio shopping bridge
plenty of selfie-snappers making the most of the conditions
we walk into the heart of the city towards santa maria del fiore
this stunning cathedral also looking glorious in the fading light
there's a lot of people out and about - summer holidays have begun
we have been warned regularly that come august and come the crowds
tonight here it appears that certainly the tourism buzz has intensified
all the cafes and bars are doing a great trade and empty tables are rare
we spot a couple on last drinks, hover, then swoop as they stand to go
as you do - we now have a perfect position to enjoy the activities
and as a bonus the food from this cafe is of an excellent quality
we remind ourselves (pinch) of how fortunate we are to be here
how good is this - how much better could it be - well - ahem
this is the move on cafe/bar - which also hosts a record store
the entire first floor taken up by racks of vinyl and books
a superb range and layout with reasonable prices - tempting
but luggage restrictions are an issue (yea right) so looking only
it's a long, slow wander back across town to our home base
but so much to see and soak up in this most amazing city...

giorno 42 - terme di caracalla

we have tickets booked tonight for a 2cellos concert in rome
but before that a day to fill up so some re-visits are planned
the first stop - abbazia di farfa - the territorial abbey of farfa
this rated as one of the most famous abbeys in all of europe
built in the 7th century and still used by the benedictine order
on our last visit we had all sorts of issues finding the place
we could see it on a hill but google maps had a secret route
which had us ensnared on a narrow road onto private property
the correct selection of our target should avoid that problem again
wrong - and worse - we're all over the place trying to get to the abbey
google maps is an amazing resource but over-reliance is punished
a good old road-map would have served us much better at this time
and just as with last time - at the point of giving up - bingo - there
it certainly is an act of determination required to make the distance
sadly though the abbey itself is closed - maybe the case on sundays
we wander the small town and enjoy the serenity there anyway
and note the large crowd gathered in the tavern - sunday lunch?
moving on - next re-visit - tivoli - and one stop only planned
the villa d'este with it's stunning gardens is worth the effort
not our day with google though and another meander taken
eventually dumping the car and walking - it's a small town
we then enjoy lunch under sun umbrellas close to the villa
while the 3 ladies make the visit i park inside the restaurant
the cafe freddo is good but not the wi-fi, staff (meeting) or decor
too close to the action possibly and the tourists taken for granted
this one moves on and spends an hour resting up and waiting
next stop - well some supplies are required so we head west
rome is surrounded by an extraordinary network of roads
these ones all new to us as we then arrive in eastern rome
the modern shopping centre under a glass roof is found
some time killed successfully there until close to showtime
it's a simple drive then to the venue - the baths of caracalla
we previously encircled them on our recent bike tour of rome
tonight we snare a close car park and join the people filing in
a beautiful evening and excitement builds as we have our picnic
then moving inside and assuming our seats in the a reserve section
wow - it's a big crowd and the stage is set for a special concert
the ruins of the baths rising as huge backdrops to the large stage
first up - a local and solo pianist who earnestly plies his trade
mostly significant is the effusive bows between each tune
the crowd going wild when it is thought he has finished
he takes this as a call for more and plays more...and more
thankfully he departs before being hooked from side of stage
the 2 lads wander on stage to a huge and very long welcome
looking older (both bearded) than when last seen in dunedin
back then brilliantly supporting and playing with elton john
here's hoping their freshness and edginess has continued
first tune - a classical piece - sounds great - but - uh-oh
there's a backing track of violins dominating the tune
my thoughts - c'mon guys - why not have live musicians
employ some locals and knock us out with a rich sound
a string of their most well known cover tunes then follow
na - forget the live strings - they wouldn't be able to deliver
for the sound is now like a big production with cellos in the mix
add in the light show and the on-stage screens and it's stadium rock
especially when ac/dc covers with a live drummer are rolled out
yep - someone has promised to make them rich and successful
they take turns at schmoozing the crowd which is lapped up
even when we are asked to hold aloft coloured a4 sheets
and we obey - and sing along to a michael jackson tune
my prediction - coming soon a new hd dvd live in rome
the volume continues to increase to ear-shattering levels
having me seriously concerned for the ancient ruins behind
with at least 4 ac/dc tunes, led zeppelin, rolling stones full bore
if there were any classical purists in the fan base then goodbye
though the final tune is only the lads in dual cello classical mode
phew - they tactfully bring us back to earth - and it's goodnight
thank-you rome - you are one of the best audiences we have had
and see you next year - well - assuming the wave keeps rolling
good luck to them - they have certainly come a long way
as for us - it feels like a long late night trip to home town
with a few missed turns at crucial times - sloppy driver...

giorno 41 - villa borghese

when in rome - indulge in some serious culture - villa borghese
tickets pre-booked for this relatively small gallery in central rome
named after a art-loving and very rich cardinal who spent up big
and gathered together a fine collection of sculptures and paintings
the gallery is in a corner of 80 hectares of gardens previously seen
it's a short walk from the parked car through the parched grounds
a relief then to get inside the serenity and coolness of the gallery
the audioguide providing an essential background to it's history
with a reminder the gallery is itself intentionally a large artwork
easy to see as we wander from room to room to view the contents
the sculptor bernini features strongly with several stunning pieces
a reclining venus, a stone-throwing david, and apollo and daphne
he pursuing her relentlessly and she transforming into a laurel tree
that moment captured in the sculpture with such incredible detail
an illusion too - from one angle only a tree can be seen in her place
this piece alone then bringing a new-found respect for the fine arts
there are paintings by known names such as raphael and caravaggio
most would be priceless i assume - but surprisingly the security is light
or maybe so well done it is invisible - but still - everything is in reach
it wouldn't take much - but presumably respect means nothing happens
happy with that concept and also grateful for the trust that is extended
we spend a couple of hours on the 2 floors before we are booted out
us and everyone else on the morning visit - good timing - we are full
next stop - the national gallery of modern art that has some appeal
as does their outdoor cafe where we sit and enjoy the summer day
under a large canopy and partaking of the fine service on offer
people-watching (as you do) suggesting the moneyed set are here
who knows - maybe our fellow patrons are famous artists - possible
inside the gallery is a bit of an anti-climax - closed for renovations
apart from one exhibition - the lasting - across a couple of rooms
the favourite piece being a series of 4 photos taken simultaneously
focused on a pedestrian in the middle of an intersection - clever
the other works - probably clever too but modern art is so subjective
still glad to have made the effort - next stop - the mall - shopping!
a return to our favourite mega-mall that today is very busy inside
the draw of air-conditioning would drag in the late saturday crowd
the ladies go one way and i go another - a drink, a sit-down, a snooze
recharged and then back into rome central to check out piazza del popolo
the people's square - and famous historically for - gulp - executions
all fun being had this evening in this large space with lots of people
we bravely decide to head to the river and the night markets there
a 40 minute hike that reveals parts of rome not seen previously
tired and now hungry means a rest and meal down riverside
porchetta and baked vegetables all round - quite delicious
this driver then volunteers to fetch the car - a long walk
and a tense drive through traffic to pick up the passengers
head north - but a wrong turn adding to the journey home
midnight - home - 4 tired people - we are really packing it in...

giorno 40 - citta del vaticano

we've booked tickets for 9am at the vatican museum
so an early start is planned to get into rome before then
some issues down under means the day actually starts at 2am
a 7:30am departure is arrival at the gates with 15 minutes spare
a well-dressed, quietly-spoken 'tourist guide' then assails us
offering an upgrade on our tickets for extra internal access
we smell a scam and walk away as he offers more discount
have they no shame - they must trap so many naive tourists
our pre-booked digital tickets gets us past the long queue
we then load up with audio guides and go into cruise mode
the vatican houses one of the largest museums in the world
a huge collection of works gathered by popes over the centuries
our recent bike guide suggesting it is too much and best avoid
but the appeal of seeing the sistene chapel is a lucrative prize
our starting point is the egyptian collection - which says it all
the power of the papacy has snared works from far and wide
a suspicion that the objects may have been dispossessed?
lingering concern about that dissipates as we venture further
each large area entered presenting a different theme of objects
statues and busts as expected, tapestries, portraits and fine art
the hall of maps is of particular appeal - art easily interpreted
raphaels frescoes over several rooms also well appreciated
especially with the audioguide providing verbal explanations
the gathering of modern artworks is also very much enjoyed
a religious theme in common and an abstract 20th century look
by now we are won over by the museum after a couple of hours
as we enter the sistene chapel the excitement levels go up a notch
packed with people but fortunately the walls and ceiling are visible
noisy too - the request for silence ignored as people excitedly chatter
similarly the request for 'no photos' not applying to the smartphones
a booming amplified voice every few minutes requesting silence
which works for a few seconds - i am thankful for the audioguide
the headphone buds buried in my ears and some soothing words
detailed explanations of the frescoes on display well appreciated
repeat play is used to really get my head around the amazing art
at the age of 32 michaelangelo painted the huge detailed ceiling
then in his sixties returned to spend 6 years on 'the final judgement'
awesome - meaning - 'something that inspires awe' - very appropriate
i have visited the chapel previously but i guess without an audioguide
the voice in my head adding another dimension to what my eyes see
and usefully blocking out the loud and incessant chatter - heathens!
after 30 minutes or so we take a sneaky exit for 'tour groups only'
this passage is a short-cut to the neighbouring st peter's basilica
first a walk through the papal tombs where many popes lay
including pope paul the 6th who i remember from my youth
it's all quite overwhelming really but then - a few steps up -
st peter's basilica itself is beyond words - glorious and more
the scale of this place is unbelievable - the jaw it is dropped
and the breath it is taken but i manage to suppress the tears
we go into wander mode around this ginormous building
so much to see and and admire not the least the architecture
ancient and yet modern with clearly no expense or effort spared
we've seen a lot of cathedrals but this one has to be the pinnacle
michaelangelo's pieta sculpture is seen behind glass in one corner
that draws the camera-yielding crowds looking for the highlights
stepping out into the bright and hot day is a harsh return to reality
final thoughts - bring the aliens here - this is humanity at it's best
we wander silently to a cafe for lunch and re-gather momentum
the group splits - there are tickets for a show to be picked up
90 minutes spent walking and metro riding on this hot day
now feeling pretty comfortable traversing rome central
there's a bit of a mixup in the appointed time of meeting
leading to some anxiety and too many what-if thoughts
but shopping has been distracting - all good - let's go
on the way home we pass an athletics track and stop
a bunch of large surrounding statues catches our eye
64 of them - over 5 metres tall - rome loves statues
we get back to a partying town in the early evening
join in the festivities with beers at our favourite bar
seems the end of the school year is being celebrated
we are celebrating in our own way - what a day....

giorno 39 - torrita tiberina (casa)

a much needed home day today - for one - tired
for another - work - the email intray is overflowing
the girls are delivered to poggio mirteto train station
a day in rome for them - some serious sight-seeing to do
it's going to be hard work though as the temperature soars
nearly every day since we arrived has been in the mid 30s
hot as - fortunately low humidity so that makes it a bit easier
for this one though - a day indoors with to-do plans a-plenty
the day spent dozing and doing housework of both varieties
come late afternoon and a return down the hill to the train station
anticipating a return of the travellers and for a change of scenery
a visit to the cafe we found on our first day here for a little treat
caffe crema - small, intense, cold, thick, smooth and delicious
calories off the scale no doubt but who cares - it tastes so good
dispensed from a large branded container seen at various places
as i sit outdoors i am joined in the adjacent table by some teenagers
which has me thinking and in general terms - they seem a happy lot
heading off into grumpy old man territory but some things are lacking
scruffiness, tats, bum-exposing pants, phones, disrespect and attitude
this group is well-dressed and enjoying the company of each other
as a couple more join them there are handshakes and kisses all round
which just gets me thinking - there is a difference in this country
children and people seem so much more respectful and content
we've not met or seen anyone, anywhere that suggests otherwise
of course there will be some but in a general sense all is good
a definite case of enjoying life and the company of others
today's little lesson is taken as the waited train then rolls in
the 3 ladies emerge - tired as expected from the rome heat
but enough energy to work up a dinner of seafood vongole
enjoyed with a cold peroni (or 2) and then - an early night...

giorno 38 - roma a piedi

roma a piedi - rome by foot - we are now in tour guide mode
our shanghai guests new to italy and relying on our guidance
living like locals possibly gone one step too far with hosting
but we will endure and enjoy - there is plenty worth a re-visit
e.g. calcata - our favourite little town 40 minutes north-west
we take a quick return trip there to see again it's unique wonder
small and old it may be but that is also the nature of it's appeal
and we are not alone - plenty of artists live there permanently
easy to imagine the camaraderie in this little cliff-top town
a brief stop back at home-base to prepare for the next trip
rome - we pretty well intentionally do evening visits now
the temperatures are lower, the crowds thinner, the vibe better
as usual we park riverside and walk across a bridge over the tiber
today's first stop is piazza navano which offers a great snapshot
there are tourists, buskers, artists, locals, fountains, cafes and more
we had previously not entered the church of sant'agnese in agone
but today the doors are open and we accept the invitation to enter
unsurprisingly impressive - small but with a huge domed ceiling
the large carved marble panels around the walls also quite striking
necks are craned looking high up at the beautiful painted ceiling
and from a spot on the floor marking the centre of the dome above
cool inside too - easy to just wander and gaze which we happily do
our eventual exit setting the tone for the evening - slow and gentle
heading off then to the pantheon also often visited - never entered
the scale is mind-boggling - a circular structure under an open roof
the floor is incredible - sloping away and patterns of coloured marble
there's hundreds possibly even thousands of people inside with us
considering over 6 million people visit every year that is no surprise
but it does not matter - it is very easy to wander aimlessly around
we then head off in the direction of trevi fountain but first a stop
we enjoy a long cool beer at a equally cool cafe along the way
then join the usual thronging crowds at the famous landmark
it's hard not to admire the workmanship on this huge fountain
we are definitely local-leaning as it is hard to take the tourists
too many american voices for one - but it is done - moving on
we amble up a walkway hosting shops, artists and street vendors
low gear is working well with no need to be anywhere at anytime
but fuel is needed - antipasto and pizza at the first place we pass
and then on to the central roman forum where our party splits
the ladies left to investigate while the driver heads cross-city
feeling very comfortable with distance and direction to the river
into the jammed in car, ease out, and a nighttime cross city drive
easy as - pick up the passengers and set controls to home base
an entirely different route is supplied this time - oh well nevermind
it's close to midnight by the time we return - straight to bed - zzzzzz

giorno 37 - passaggio

passaggio - changeover - the theme of today's activities
our london based guests are due to fly back this evening
a mother and daughter from shanghai due to arrive after
but first - rome for a day visit - and the villa borghese
an hour long journey through steady traffic to the villa
a huge and mostly empty underground carpark is found
we walk across large, dry and abandoned grassy areas
spot some activity under some big trees and head there
the villa borghese gardens are 80 hectares in central rome
so walking on a hot day such as today is not very desirable
and why the various forms of hire transport are doing well
we settle on an electric 4 seater golf-cart with a solid roof
the 30 euro charge gives us one hour to see as much as we can
which we do - our driver takes delight in hitting maximum speed
a hilarious romp around the gardens with stops at points-of-interest
one point offering a panoramic view of rome city, another lakeside
we gaze at the galleria nationale d'arte moderna - a return visit?
there are fountains (of course), marble statues and walkways
probably all much better appreciated on a long and cool day
where walking from one point to another would be so relaxing
still - mission accomplished - like a typical tourist - tick that box
a drive then into rome central, a riverside park and walk inwards
daughter has a recommended restaurant in mind - rome's best pasta
sadly at 5:30pm it is only open for counter meals - roman style
so we sit at the counter, order and share 4 different dishes
a fine bottle of rose is also enjoyed with the fine food
that in itself encouraging a banter about business issues
time - there's a plane to catch - fiumicino airport is next
changeover - guests - and car - we return to europcar
confess our incident resulting in the smashed side mirror
we are told it is illegal to not have said mirror - changeover
we juggle all this while our guests leave and the next arrive
our citreon c1 which was a fiat 500 is now a toyota aygo
we cannot complain about the service provided by europcar
(unlike the loud and abusive aussie couple in front of us)
sad to see the last of the c1 but the aygo is a fine substitute
an easy drive back on the ring road then north to home base
the start of another 3 week mini-adventure with our guests...