giorno 11 - torrita tiberina (casa)

a very deliberate plan to stay put today - a rest is needed
we've had 2 solid weeks of driving around wales and italy
and today - well it's end-of-month for one - so office work calls
coincidentally also being thursday - a special day in torrita tiberina
with the local specialty of porchetta being delivered to the local store
one reason we took on these lodgings was in part due to a prior tennant
'if you have not tasted porchetta your life is a kind of miserable mistake'
his enthusiasm for the apartment and town in general very convincing
on this day we happen to be in the local store when we spot said meat
a couple of pieces are respectfully carved off and proudly handed over
it's still warm so presumably just out of the oven - we let it sit for lunch
then - oh yes - it is definitely special - melt-in-the-mouth roast pork
the afternoon spent out of the heat with a fan spinning and relaxing
sitting inside is guilt-free as we really have done a lot very quickly
there's also the first long-distance trip to be planned - naples it is
the weather so far in italy has been consistently sunny and hot
today the barometer is again heading towards the mid-30s
the afternoon sun avoided with attention instead to laptops
the fridge plundered at dinner time for another meat dish
veal, prosciutto and sage combined for a delicious meal
the local house wine adding the necessary liquid element
then it's on with the walking shoes and headphones and out
a 30 minute walking circuit covering the heights of the town
the sun sinking on the idyllic scene of the tiber river and valley
standing at the highest point and acknowledgement of this place
a walk past the castle entrance next to our digs and a notice is up
seems torrita tiberina has it's own summer festival starting tonight
coinciding with football's euro 2016 that must be on a big screen
tempted to join in the festivities but maybe another night...

giorno 10 - bocchignano

not the day nor the destination we planned but that's ok
anzio was the target - a coastal town south-west of rome
for the sake of expediency we hit the autostrade in bambino
but uh-oh there's a couple of warning lights and a power issue
we decide to divert to the car pickup point at ciampino airport
there - scusa - you will need to take the car to fumicino airport
which is a 40 minute drive from the south of rome to the west
fumicino is a huge airport and europcar are 3rd floor building b
once there the chaps are on-side and agree to an instant car-swap
we bid farewell to our fiat 500 and acquaint with a citreon c1
not sure about that deal but no issue to be made and off we go
but back on the autostrade doubts creep in about the documents
and a decision to return - but - a misread leads to a long diversion
it's all getting a bit tiresome by the time we get back and all sorted
enough to scupper plans for anzio and invoke plan b - bocchignano
already on the list for another day and close-ish to home so selected
and a nice drive too - it's a remote town requiring some hill-work
which is a good test for the c1 and confirmation of it's peugeot links
it handles really well, has a clear engine roar and is very comfortable
we'll take it - we rock up to bocchignano very tired, hot and thirsty
it's a small town but the cafe is open so it's cafe freddos all round
a walk up a steep ramp to the old town entrance is demanding
but worth the effort - again - as we enter another olde world
it has been a voyage of discovery with these hilltop 'hoods
walking indiscriminately around the streets of their towns
we spot the odd person here or there but we are left alone
it is siesta time but this town seems to be mostly abandoned
and more 'vendere' signs than usual on windows of homes
a sense that here the community has moved on and out
though a trail of signs indicate an upcoming music night
which is added into the mix of our busy social calendar
15 minutes wandering and the stress of this day is relieved
back into bebe and point the directions to torrita tiberina
an enjoyable drive from a different direction to home town
along the way passing through other towns yet to be visited
it's another beautiful evening in this current hot summer
cold olives, tomatoes and wine lead to a seafood vongole
compensated for with the now established walking circuit
the views from the highest point now a nightly highlight...

giorno 9 - fiano romano

uh-oh - a broken tooth requires some emergency dental work
our english speaking landlady consulted to make an appointment
and so a visit to the town of fiano romano about 20 minutes away
the usual check of trip adviser for what else we can do while there
not much it seems - so expectations are low as we cruise into town
we park the car with plenty of time to spare for the reconnaissance
walk up a cobblestone ramp and through an archway to the old town
and immediately - oh wow - this looks really neat - in both senses
there's a large square with various large buildings surrounding it
some with flags draped that add a vibrancy to the sterile exteriors
there's a few people around but we're now used to quiet towns
especially mid afternoon when most shops close for siesta time
we honour the time and quietly wander around the small lanes
an immediate impression that the people here are proud residents
it's all so neat and tidy with perfectly clean streets and houses
cobblestones gleaming and any decayed brickwork brushed clean
it looks to me like this place is ready for a tidy-town competition
and the predominance of pastel colours makes it all quite alluring
as do the colourful planter boxes and a smiling sun-face fixture
we walk into a small square to see a small stage and seating set up
a notice advising of an arts festival currently running for a month
we agree - a return one evening for some local music would be grand
the local gelateria is open and so we feel obliged to provide business
problems as usual selecting from the huge range of flavours on offer
then quietly sitting and consuming it on this lovely summer afternoon
a waitress from a nearby cafe then provides table served cafe freddos
the contrast to our hectic time in rome the day prior comes to mind
but we cannot dwell too long - we have a dentist to locate and attend
easy done and small town friendliness extends to this business also
the drive home through the narrow lanes now an enjoyable ritual
each trip revealing more of the quiet and simple life in rural italy
similarly living in a small town where nothing is left wanting
we refill our wine bottle and buy some more fresh vegetables
both enjoyed in our now routine early home-cooked dinner
that in turn followed by an established brisk walking circuit
and an early night in preparation for doing it all again - yay...

giorno 8 - rome parte 2

one week down and now very much into the groove of it all
so time to take on rome again after last week's tired attempt
today's excuse is the australian election and a vote to be placed
driving confidence now up also so the plan is to take the car in
this despite most online commentators advising against this action
aggressive roman drivers and the no-drive zone both causing issues
but off we go - google maps and a driver/navigator team make it easy
the biggest hassle is parking - none of it - cars are jammed in everywhere
round and round we go until we spot a centre-street space being vacated
it's illegal but we seek assurance from a police officer - shrugged approval
the australian consulate is a few blocks away and found quickly and easily
we deal with the security and bureaucracy to complete the official business
then with no real plan for the rest of the day it's agreed we take a wander
trip adviser also coming into it's own and consulted - we have a list of sites
first up is musee di villa torlonia which is hosted on a large block of land
a whole city block that has a gallery, theatre, villa and grassed areas
oops though - monday - the buildings all closed so it's outside only
an immediate observation though - the grounds are looking - tired
long grass, weeds, dead leaves indicating a budgetary/cash issue
and thinking this may be a sign of the current times for italy
we consult trip adviser for the next p-o-i and are surprised
everything is relatively close - and walking distances - march!
we both agree that aimless wandering on a fine day is rewarding
so we set a vague target for the tiber river and head off southwest
passing the university, roadside markets, hawkers and monuments
campo verona - a cemetary with an impressive entrance calls us in
equally impressive headstones and crypts - rossini, garibaldi, oliveti
famous names at least but we're a bit creeped out by it all so moving on
it's hot and we're happily slogging it in the less celebrious part of rome
but we cross a road and things lift - cleaner streets, fresher paint, tourists
we approach and pass through the imposing and ancient aurelian wall
then that most famous of landmarks - the colosseum - is in the distance
we circle it and agree once (inside) is enough for this monument to death
the tiber river is in striking distance as gelatos and iced tea fuel us up
we visit the 'mouth of truth' made famous by the roman holiday film
and that's enough - no cafes of any appeal around so let's head home
but now it's peak hour - we wait and wait for a bus and end up walking
back to the colosseum via a high road looking across an ancient valley
into the metro we go and a not-unpleasant trip back to find our car
cruise on out of the city and an arrival back home tired but satisfied
the combination of driving and walking in rome proper an achievement...

giorno 7 - nazzano

sunday - day of rest - relatively - and time to meet the neighbours
nazzano is the closest town to torrita tiberina - a 5 minute drive
also hosting a central castle and views over the tiber river valley
we pull up outside town, find a shady car shelter spot and walk
first stop is a cafe and the now mandatory cafe freddo - chilled
the cafe beckons another couple and unusually - english speaking
they from adelaide on a 6 month house swap with a rome family
we compare notes and experiences and swap recommendations
and end up out-staying the cafe owners as siesta time rolls around
contact details are exchanged and we wander into nazzano proper
it is as quiet as - siesta time is taken seriously here - sunday also
we creep quietly around the single street that cuts through town
there's a central well and fountain that provides welcome relief
the views are outstanding particularly across the valley eastwards
for there we can pick out our own town with the castle profiled
and easy to imagine the same view back in medieval times
there's a clear cobblestoned pathway leading up this castle
we follow the path and conscious of life behind closed doors
a solitary man seen sitting at the highest point of the clocktower
though he not interested in exchanging even nodded greetings
we stand looking at the abandoned and secured main castle
sadly it has been let go so is not welcoming of tourist types
still impressive though and we agree one day it will be restored
we reverse our steps out of this sleeping town and head back home
it's a stinker today - 33 degrees and climbing so shade and fan required
a venture out in the cooler evening to sit with the locals at the bar
down a couple of beers and watch the card competition underway
home for a pasta dinner and afterwards the round town walk
one week down and feeling very comfortable in this place...

giorno 6 - lago di bracchiano

a big day planned today - destination - lake bracchiano
3 towns on it's perimeter and all recommended for a visit
slip out of town early-ish and now a familiar route east bound
there's serious celebrations taking place in one town we traverse
too much to ignore so we exit the car and stand solemnly as one
speeches are being made - i suspect some kind of anniversary
all the while the brass band is seen expiring in black uniforms
for today is already evolving to be a stinker and they in full sun
a relief for all as they strike up a tune and then lead the parade
but we are heading in the opposite direction - next stop calcata
this town comes highly (trip) advised - we drive in - we park
we walk through an entrance containing fluttering pigeons
no idea what is to follow but o-m-g this place is exquisite
a small town perched on a cliff face over a lush valley
it is very condensed and clearly a tourist destination
we are entranced - and it's walking only in a labyrinth
plentiful of the smallest of bars, cafes and artisan stores
we are welcomed and beckoned to inspect homes and shops
a cafe freddo taken to allow time to soak it in - we will return
push on  - we cruise down to the volcanic lake and hit town one
trevignano romano - car parked and a walk to lakeside and - wow
a mirror lake, sunny day, clouds dotted, swans cruising, camera clicking
lakeside outdoor seating areas serviced by restaurants across the road
we pick one, are seated then order and consume a meal of lake fish
it just does not get any better - setting, food, service and ambience
it's all very dream like - and there's more to come - driving on
just out of town we see people lolling at lakeside - we join them
a swim in this most pristine lake is heavenly (alcohol infused)
then we drive on to the town of bracchiano and it's castle
we are welcomed to inspect the cathedral set for a wedding
then we pay the euros down and join a guided tour of the castle
wow - unlike any other - small(ish) but an engaging history
rooms adorned with artwork, furniture, frescoes and weapons
scaling up to the ramparts and a stunning view out over the lake
said wedding reception is being hosted within the castle walls
so today's army is a team of caterers preparing for the big event
next stop - town number 3 - anguillara sabazia - but we hold back
we park ourselves lakeside and gelato-indulge and a quick swim
let's leave investigations for a return visit for this lake demands it
having circumnavigated the lake we then reverse the drive home
it's been a full day of totally satisfying discoveries - again....

giorno 5 - sant'oreste

it seems every hill in this area of italy - lazia - has a town
sant'oreste more impressive than most given it's height
it's a low-gear climb in bambino up to the centre of town
the peak of this hill further up and another trip for another day
we park where we can and start walking up through the streets
cobblestone abounds underfoot and multi-story houses surround us
the higher we go the narrower the lanes and the smaller the houses
it becomes maze-like but it's a functioning town on a working day
a cobblestone repairer happy to show and tell his particular skill
a small articulated truck slightly narrower than the lane zooms by
the locals walking, talking, sitting, greeting and welcoming of us
there are small businesses in the smallest of premises in every street
a restaurant with a elf adorned sign is tempting but sadly still closed
but not so a cafe offering an outside table on a flower-potted deck
cafe freddo our new favourite drink - iced espresso - a local staple
we have 1 drink and a cake each - 5 euros thanks - decent prices
reversing our steps back to bambino and a sign spotted - outlet
descend the hill and set the controls for said shopping centre
weird - it's huge - but there's no traffic - we are 1 of 6-8 cars
maybe it's closed - or under construction - or weekends only?
we walk up the stopped escalator and expect to be turned away
nope - the shops are open - and there's a lot of them but it's deserted
it's totally impressive with every shop facing onto an outdoor facade
that twisting and turning in multiple directions and with large features
bright orange and yellow modern sculptures and arched walkways
the shops themselves well stocked and well staffed - clothing rules
there are homeware shops also so a chance to obtain a few essentials
the sun now high and hot - we are retail sated - time to head home
petrol low - call into a station on a b road and to an empty bowser
strange looking pumps - ah - electric top-ups - and lots of them
outnumbering the fossil fuel equivalents and a great thing to see
confirmation if any is needed that this country is future-planning
another fine day in this fine part of the world - we are loving it

giorno 4 - civitavecchia

yesterday's casual attempt at getting into some water failed
today we are getting serious about it and heading for the coast
a 90 minute drive south then west and avoiding tollways the aim
not so much to save the euros but to force a more interesting trip
which it is - the roads winding, narrrow and relatively busy
so attention is required and dual driver/navigator works well
as always it's a real pleasure to see the sea off to our left side
as soon as we can we pull into a beach and take a gander
the shore is pebbled, the water is still, clear and very tempting
a few people sun-baking and a cafe and ice-cream sellers present
we decide to push on as we are yet to get to the main target town
but soon enough the volume of traffic and housing confirms arrival
civitavecchia is a major sea port - mainly cruise ships and ferries
we park the car as soon as we sense we are at city central and walk
there's a beautiful seascape and an equally stunning ancient fortress
close inspection of that - appropriately named forte michaelangelo
designed by the man in the 16th century for the reigning pope julius
it is now surrounded by modernity but it is imposing and impressive
we wander on and cut up into the city proper - seems we are too late
the markets are packing up - nevermind - we'll return earlier next time
we wander the streets and agree this city is more functional than showy
few options for food except a bunch of hotels seaside with outdoor areas
we park in the heat under an umbrella and partake in pasta and iced tea
a constant stream of senegalese gents then politely offer their wares
watches, sunglasses, jewellery and woodwork offered and declined
we drive as close as we can to the port - a large cruise ship is docked
this port being the closest to rome so the tourists pass through in volume
we also spot a ferry that serves tunisia - noted for a future expedition
time for a swim - we park and walk and plunge - it's cold but delicious
the clearest of water in the purpose built pool off the main beach front
totally enjoyable and now well invigorated for the return journey
heading north and east on a circular route back to our home town
a number of beautiful towns are passed through and mentally noted
a stop at one for a wander, a gelato and a look at a concert venue
a small stage and seating set up for a current dance festival
maybe we can work that in - it would be grand under the stars
but for now - head home and our usual fine food and early bed...

giorno 3 - dintorni

this early on and we realise we have snagged it big time
our want was to settle into the groove of an italian community
with visits to large cities to be done by choice and not by default
our 2 level house is sparse, clean, comfortable and welcoming
windows and doors opening onto scenes of rural and town life
glazed brick pavers underfoot, tall ceilings, low lights, fans
several shops close by with a plentiful supply of fresh food
watermelons a staple as are rich red tomatoes and green olives
and an enticing choice of bread, cheese, smallgoods and wine
so domestically we have mana - our environs - dintorni - beckon
our link there is to be provided by the rental vehicle we have taken
booked for the duration of our stay - a near new silver-grey fiat 500
initial reservations about it's small size dispelled within about 1 minute
our baggage easily stowed and with room to spare on the back seat
unusually a driver's seat that has more slide movement than is needed
head-space plenty - engine - responsive - air-conditioning - adequate
it is as nimble to drive as expected and well suited to the narrow roads
small cars dominate in this country - and the fiat 500 is a favourite
a multitude of colours, trims and wheels making each one unique
so yes - happy with our choice and sure to serve us well for 60 days
today we have decided to board said vehicle and push out further
we have a few tips from evelina to chase down with google maps
first up - a nature reserve alongside the tiber river in the valley below
our town - torrita tiberina - is a hilltop castle with surrounding houses
the next town - nazzano - same deal and a 5 minute drive in bambino
as we cruise into that town we realise it is larger and needs investigation
another time - for today we are in search of the adjacent nature reserve
google maps - an amazing tool - but sometimes dependence is punished
in this case we 'have arrived at your destination' but nothing is in sight
except for the river and surrounds way off at the bottom of the hill
ah - google has got as close as it can on mapped roads - good luck
anyway just like the good old days a bit of intuition has to kick in
we then find a downward heading road/path and take the descent
drawing closer and some encouraging (italian) signs are spotted
so too are large potholes in the road so careful negotiation required
and then - a clearing - a few cars, benches, people and cruise boats
memories of a trip in kakadu national park are evoked with this setting
700 hectares of waterways, flora and fauna that will require a return visit
but today we want to go further so we push on up again and head west
it is hot and we have advice of a fresh-water swimming pool in the area
this time trip advisor is consulted and it pops up a couple of nearby options
good one - load the nearest into google maps and off we go - we are yours
but same story - what google claims to be our destination is a back lane
no swimming pool in sight - ok - let's try the next one - the same deal
just as well we are enjoying cruising around the roads of the area
we're getting well used to driving on the right in a left hand drive
we put this whole exercise down to experience and hit it for home
and lo and behold we pass a swimming pool down a hill in trees
drive in, park, walk, check the ticket prices and the pool itself
a combination of price and too many kids puts us off the idea
so we pass on the piscine and head for home and relaxation
an early dinner and an early night now becoming habitual...

giorno 2 - rome

it's not all play on this adventure - there's a help desk lurking
client calls meant there was only one hours sleep in london
the day down under starting at pumpkin hour in the north
the first night in italy requiring similar mid-night awakenings
but there's a bit of technology required so we take a road to rome
a short drive down the hill to the nearest town of poggio mirteto
we're told trains depart every 15 minutes into the heart of rome
maybe at peak hour but in the heat of mid-day it's a 90 minute wait
most of that spent in a local cafe indulging in the best iced coffee ever
small, smooth, rich, creamy and well partnered with a sweet pastry
the train arrives, we board, we find a seat, we settle in, we - sleep
zombie mode is kind of order of the day as we switch to metro mode
emerge from the underground in the guts of rome and memories rush
not so much rome but that unique feeling of re-connecting with the past
still - a smile on the dial and a kind of aimless city-stumble then begins
we have a purpose but heat, tiredness and overwhelming presence combine
google maps in walking mode works against us so we resort to - gulp - asking
we get pointed in vague directions to vague destinations and go in circles
but it's ok - every corner on every street in this ancient city is revealing
thankfully one of us is more alert/insistent and our chosen store is found
but the bit we want - a wireless/ethenet converter - remains elusive
as does a helpful sales assistant - oh well - moving on - let's google it
and so begins a walk that reveals a side of rome away from the bustle
small, narrow, cobblestone streets hosting small, specific businesses
cafes, chocolatiers, hairdressers, tailors, boutiques, bars, homewares
and - an electrical store - oops - not the electronics store we wanted
right - let's give up on that and change to tourist mode - easy done
within 10 minutes we are standing at the iconic trevi fountain
alongside hundreds of other tourists but that's ok - gelato time
the grossly inflated price does not dissuade as we sit, lick, gawk
then we're off - the spanish steps are close-by and found quickly
renovation mode but still the crowds come as we decide to move out
it's now peak hour and the required metro journey is an experience
the system seems overloaded, run-down and bordering on scary
dudes with machine-guns a reminder of the times in which we live
i enjoy mixing it with the locals but in this case not like a sardine
dis-gorging at a suburban station and tiredness now kicking in
stumbling around local streets in search of food loses appeal
and a welcome relief to get on the train back into the country
an hour later we are back in the fiat, up the hill and arrive home
the fridge plundered for wine, olives, cheese and tomatoes - then - zzzz

giorno 1 - torrita tiberina

melbourne - a brief, busy and intentionally functional stopover
the highlight being wined and dined at a harbourside restaurant
sharing a table with a bunch of old music industry cohorts
the universal supplied duo making some impressive noise
onto shanghai and 2 weeks of gorging and pampering
the compulsory 5 day inter-city tour an easy connection
5 star hotel check-in, alarm call, buffet breakfast, bus
morning - roll into a jade/silk/tea/pot shop in the city
all-you-can-eat lunch and then onto a temple/park/lake
all-you-can-eat dinner and then prepare for repeat play
entirely satisfying and an absolute pleasurable experience
only to be surpassed by then a full week of total indulgence
treated like visiting royalty with digs, food, transport laid on
multiple meals in private rooms in seemingly top restaurants
our hosts from distant or recent past friendships now revisited
we leave shanghai with our bellies and hearts full to over-flowing
check-in to our inner-city digs in london and quickly hit a groove
it's a short wander to borough markets for street-food heaven
boris-bikes are a hit for us and so easy to travel wide and far
pick up a bike, 30 minutes ride in bike friendly lanes and traffic
dump the bike, wander, shop, eat, watch, listen and observe
spring/summer weather and a happy populace also in the mix
as is our canine flatmate zelda with a want/need for regular walks
bombino, ballet and richard hawley all memorable concerts/gigs
a quick 3 day blast through north to south wales also rewarding
conwy and llandudno in the north noted for a future return visit
swansea in the south - tick - been there - cardiff - yep - good-o
leaving the jousting show behind to get a half-day in at bath
the history lesson well absorbed then the return to london
catch breath, eat burger and lobster, bid farewell and...italy...
budget airline ryanair delivers us to budget airport flumucino
europcar delivers us the pre-booked fiat 500 and we're off
set the controls for the north of rome and get acquainted
left hand drive, right hand manual gears, right side of road
anticipation and excitement far exceeding any trepidation
all good until we hit the first toll gate on our journey north
a machine demands attention so is (force) fed a credit card
it grabs it and won't let go - damn - hazard lights on - help!
eventually a techo and apprentice arrive to save the card and us
good humour prevails and the red-faced journey then continues
head off the highway and the roads then narrow, twist and ascend
long grass, lack of road markings and oncoming traffic combine
it's a short trip and before we know it we are in torrita tiberina
stumble around and recognise our airbnb booked apartment
landlady evelina and mother bridget arrive and welcome us
our home is equally instantly welcoming in this small town
bid farewell, unpack and take a short walk to the local shops
a beer taken overlooking the tiber valley - it all feels g-o-o-d
we load up with enticing food and wine from a small store
and enjoy our first meal on the first day of our italian adventure...