we are on a cruise taking in the northern capitals
klaipeda happens to be on the northern coast of lithuania
not exactly the capital of the country but it has a port so close enough
good sign as we disembark - a beautiful day and a welcoming party is dockside
a 5 piece band sounding like authentic local folk music - bass clarinet included
we take the short walk to the old town and find it small, closed and underwhelming
no worries - plan a kicks into action - find a taxi, negotiate a price and head off
we're on a 30km trip out of town to a seaside resort called palanga
during the journey val our native lithuanian driver is questioned
he says things in this part of his country are very, very bad
seems government corruption is rife as they hog the money
nothing available for the ordinary people or economy
we ask maybe things were better as part of the ussr
nope - things then were very, very, very bad
so at least a small improvement since then
so maybe membership of the e u is the answer
negative - rich countries suck off the local workers
klaipeda used to have 300,000 residents - now only 190,000
so it's all a bit doomy amd gloomy - mercifully it's a short journey
we arrive at palanga and are pointed to the park we have been recommended
it's a pleasant walk to the modest classical palace in the large grounds
uh-oh - closed - summer is coming and so too the tourists - renovations
luckily the amber museum is still open in the basement area
fascinating - plenty of examples of insects, etc embalmed in amber
re-trace steps, a drive through the small town and head back
stopping off at a path leading to a cliff-top view of the baltic sea
quite pretty with the path surrounded by high trees so like an avenue
we stand atop the cliff-top staring out at finland - or in that direction
photos taken then val suggests another spot that is very pretty
a drive of a few kilometres through some run down suburbs
park the taxi and walk along a barb-wire compound
val points out a delapidated tower that the russians used
during the occupation days to watch over the next door beach
our destination is a point next to the channel we sailed through
pretty - no but as a way to highlight the abandonment here - good
we have run the course with val so ask for delivery to the ferry terminal
the plan is to get across to the curonian peninsula and do some bird-watching
oops - he thinks ferry = boat so we are back at the ship - thanks - see ya
a brisk walk to the ferry and scramble aboard for the 10 minute channel crossing
the peninsula is a unesco-listed world heritage site due to it's bird life
a popular stopping point for migratory birds of all sizes it seems
it's very thin and very long - a 25km walk, bike, taxi, bus or buggy ride
our options are limited as we are not carrying any local currency
so decide on an amble across to the beach-side of the peninsula
lovely - in the shade of trees, birds singing, few people
hit the beach - nice enough but aramoana beach it is not
the view of large oil tanks at one end not so appealing
a long walk to the ornothological point is declined
our tummies are starting to complain so back we go
time to sample some local food at a canal-side cafe
it's a long wait for beer and/or food but the sun is out
herrings with potatoes and potato and bacon dumplings served up
a wander back through the old town and centre square markets
quiet reflection at the hotel balcony where adolf hitler once stood
proclaiming german sovereignity over the country of lithuania
followed by the russians, the e u and now we boat people
fortunately for us we just get back on board and depart
leaving behind a town that seems to be struggling
maybe they are happy but not much sign of that
next stop poland - gulp - same again?
