random thoughts and comments from nomadic music film and travel junkie - seeks no recognition, claims no expertise

Wednesday 21 May 2014

oh vienna...














about the only thing i knew about vienna was classical music and the danube
and the title of fave genre-defining ultravox album released in 1980
so upon arriving by train from prague it was with quiet excitement
always good to come into a city with little or no expectations
the usual hit-the-ground-running dealing of the city trains
and a few blocks walk to our pre-booked studio apartment
very nice too - large, clean and very comfortable
middle floor, middle tower, middle block, middle class
happy - and better still - walking distance to the city
so unpack and off we head on our first reconnisance there
looking good - sun out, easy walking and so much to observe
the old city walls replaced by a busy bus/tram/car ring road
within that road it's pedestrians that largely have priority
so easy to just wander and then realise how special this place is
turn any corner of any street and it's another oh-wow moment
there's a definite buzz in the air with the summer weather
the local beer tested at a purpose-built platform cafe
looking down at the sun-bakers along the danube canal
our mission today is to secure tickets for a concert
tempted by the mozart-clad hawkers of various shows
but a longing for authenticity means a bit of effort
and then obtaining tickets for staatoper in 2 days time
back home and dinner taken at a local austrian restaurant
the next and first full day is sunny so perfect for our plan
we have a map and suggested walkway to cover all the must-sees
our preference with limited time to do that and select must-visits
first stop - mozarthaus - where the man lived for 3 years
interesting but definitely a commercial tourist trap
on to the neighbouring st stephens (gothic) cathedral
big and impressive - every one is unique in some way
the huge hofburg collection of palaces, museums, etc is next
if we had days/weeks/inclination then this would be the place
we settle on the sisi collection - she the wife of franz joseph 1
a guided tour telling us all about the sad life of this lady
good also to get a handle on the end of the hapsburg dynasty
lunch taken very nicely in a cafe in the burtgarten
hosting a very popular statue of the beloved mozart
our walking tour continues - the modern art quarter
the twin monolithic museums of fine arts and history
then onto musikvien - the home of the vienna philharmonic
vienna central is quite compact - heaps to see but easy to find
we head to the jewish quarter and observe an important monument
a very simple concrete structure honouring 65,000 deaths
but no obvious mention of the austrian man responsible
ice-cream vendors doing very well in the summer weather
we partake - wandering in the area known as the bermuda triangle
shops, restaurants, bars, offering an opportunity to get lost
we agree we feel very safe and at home in this stunning city
time for dinner - we've been walking all day so head home
a local japanese restaurant serves up the cheapest sushi
the second full day we hit the metro to schonbruun
a palace on very large grounds well out of the city
a tour is in order and we immediately sense the similarity
catherine's palace in st petersburg comes to mind
which has us thinking - you've seen one palace...
120,000 people are due here for a concert next week
the vienna philharminic orchestra are the stars
so the huge grounds are already being prepared
bit of an eyesore for us regular tourists
but still a zillion photo opportunities
we spend the afternoon back in the inner city
more quality time at a few already selected points
e.g. standing on top of a platform under a church dome
bit nerve-racking actually - something not right about that
the museum of modern art hosting some very interesting paintings
alongside the usual installations of 1960's tv sets and the like
i have an urge to see the danube river in all its glory
so a metro taken to the international visitors centre
an area where architects have had free licence it seems
a short walk to the river and a greek riverside cafe
sitting in the sun eating fine food and downing beer
one of those pinch-me moments as we look out at the river
but - we have an appointment tonight - not too much time to relax
hit the metro again, head home, shower, best dressed and into the city
staatoper it is - the premium opera house in vienna - and the world?
we have seats in one of the boxes in the first of 5 floors
our own personal digital text streaming device for lyrics
and on stage - 60 voice choir and a full sized orchestra
5 soloists come and go as we witness bellini's norma
a near 3 hour concert of the highest standard
at least the audience seemed to think so
lots of standing ovations and clapping
for us a definite highlight of our trip
opera - yea - i get it - in vienna at least...