random thoughts and comments from nomadic music film and travel junkie - seeks no recognition, claims no expertise

Monday 5 May 2014

st petersburg out
















deja vu time as we exit the boat and hook up with our tour group
pile into the mercedes minivan and head back into the city
a normal workday today so traffic has increased significantly
first up is a canal trip - we have our own boat and driver
it's a low barge-like vessel purpose-built for the low bridges
luba providing her expert commentary as we navigate the canals
the neva river is very wide and diverse with many channels
from ground/water height it is difficult to work out the layout
many turns taken and the oft stated comparison to venice obvious
but on a larger scale - higher, wider, longer, taller, etc, etc
we pass by numerous palaces, government buildings, parks and houses
perception - st petersburg has the potential to be a stunning city
but it feels a bit underdone - like a thin layer of grime everywhere
i suspect that is the soviet hangover that they are working hard at displacing
luba also reminds us the weather is very average - 60 days of sun a year
but the long winter and snow-covered ground has it's own beauty
will take her word for that and make assessment at some future time
we jump off the boat and then it's another public transport experience
the metro - this is going to be good - built in the 1950's down deep
we descend a single long escalator to the station 80 metres underground
the place is a museum in it's own right - marble and granite construction
spotlessly clean with references to the revolution everywhere
hammer and sickle ornamentation, statues of workers, soldiers, lenin
the whole system of over 80 stations was built in a single year
and the architecture and decor retained though no stalin references
the train itself is also clean though showing it's age in other ways
it takes a while to lumber up to speed and then it rolls around a lot
suggesting the engines and suspension are in need of updating
otherwise a fascinating experience - the escalator up opportunistic
a look at the faces of the commuters confirming a worldwide standard
commuting is mind-numbing stuff - our russian comrades are not happy
let's keep moving - our minibus is set on a northern destination
along the way we pass memorials to the terrible seige of world war 2
the nazis spending 900 days surrounding the city and starving the population
1 million city residents perished - luba quite emotional as she tells us this
hard to imagine the suffering today of course but a poignant moment nonetheless
our destination is peterhof - a summer palace for peter the great
beautiful gardens and many fountains to behold on this spring day
sadly the nazis occupied this place and all but destroyed it
so a lot of rebuilding done or underway to return it to former glory
lunch - another takeover of a local restaurant - and a shot of vodka
then the final point on our 2 day deluxe tour of st petersburg
catherine's summer palace - and home of the famous amber room
we arrive as the rain sets in so take brief refuge in a church
there's a service underway - oops - and a funeral in fact
russian orthodox style - good to see but not over-staying
a dash through the rain to the palace and join the queue
our guide once again wields her influence and we jump
we don our slippers and start the tour of the palace
palace = big home - this one is unsurprisingly huge
room after room of artwork, furniture and decor
the amber room is a little bit underwhelming
apparantly the nazis stripped the original panels
so the cashed-up russian govt has spent 10 million euros
putting in place amber panels as close to the original as possible
impressive - but - it sets the tone for a lot of what we see here
it looks really good but it feels less than fully authentic
the crowds adding to the almost theme-park feel to it all
2 days of full-on tourist hot-spot visiting has taken a toll
but no complaints - we have seen some totally amazing sights
we have a near 2 hour journey back to the waiting cruise ship
lots of questions from us the tourists and luba the local
a good opportunity to exchange ideas and perceptions
an almost sad farewell to our exceptional guide
and not long after we set sail from russia
it will need another visit - some time...