random thoughts and comments from nomadic music film and travel junkie - seeks no recognition, claims no expertise

Sunday 4 May 2014

st petersburg in














a couple of great days have been had in scandanavia
then an overnight sail pushing further east to russia
clock forward an hour so what feels like a very early start
there's a bit of argy-bargy this time to get off the boat
and a bit of anxiety in the queue for russian immigration
the warnings being they take their jobs seriously so go with it
we've organised our own tour on land - a 2 day deluxe package
7 other people from the cruise have taken the same initiative
all americans so good to be amongst other english speakers
we are met by our tour guide luba and the driver andrei
into the near-new (smelling) mercedes mini-van and we're off
it's the last day of a 4 day weekend so the streets are quiet
and a relatively quick trip to a hotel to pick up 2 more tourists
luba keeps up a constant naming of landmark buildings and bridges
everything is wide and flat - most buildings are 2 or 3 levels high
hard to get a grip on it actually - it's all a bit un-inviting
our first stop is a coffee/souvenir shop and the vodka is on offer
seems churlish to refuse so that is taken and warms things up
the first item on the tour agenda is the famous hermitage museum
my mind's eye has a clear vision of it thanks to russian ark
that fabulous film from a few years back filmed in 1 take
as the central character wanders from room to room
and scenes reminiscent of days gone by are portrayed
no disappointment - in this case reality matches perception
the walk up the grand main staircase in particular spine-tingling
this place is grand - and the timing of our visit is perfect
luba has got us in an hour before the place officially opens
and she is an obvious expert so we are very well informed
there are 24 miles of corridors and 1 minute per piece = 8 years
in 2 hours we see the major pieces/rooms and are well satisfied
for me it feels like mission accomplished - it's all bonus from now on
the crowds are building as we exit into the grounds of the winter palace
a huge central square now used for rallies, concerts and military displays
well settling into the rhythm of it all now as lunch is taken
off to a local restaurant that our group of 13 takes over
we have a fairly hectic schedule for the remainder of the day
first stop is the oddly named church on our saviour of spilled blood
a russian orthodox church with multi-coloured onion-shape domes
completed early last century and spared by the bolsheviks
inside - every wall covered in dazzling colourful mosaics
similarly on the ceiling of the high domes - beautiful
the camera is given a good workout - so much to take in
similarly outside - from every angle it is stunning
but wait - there's more - off to st isaacs cathedral
next to the neva river and the symbolic heart of the city
they say everything in st petersburg is done on a large scale
this place is mind-boggling in it's scale and granduer
a single central dome with a dove painted high up on the ceiling
lots more neck-craning and finger-pressing - we are dazed
in the form of relief the next stop is the modest yusupov palace
modesty being a relative thing in the home of this aristocratic family
this is the scene of the murder of rasputin in the basement
there are mannequins in place depicting that historical moment
the palace itself large but not at all ostentatious
compared at least to the 3 prior visits on this day
we are treated to some exemplary russian accapella
a 5 piece group of male singers coincidentally named the arc
then back into our bus and we are thinking it's home time
nope - there's time to fit in another cathedral visit (abc)
the peter and paul cathedral on the other side of the neva
we're all feeling a bit jaded so this one seems superfluous
at least until we get inside and realise it's significance
this is the final resting place for most of russia's monarchy
15 or so tombs - marble shaped boxes - sitting on the floor inside
each with the required headstone and within easy reach for a touch
no need and no desire - a very sombre and significant place
we stagger on to the bus and are delivered back to the ship
oh what a day - we are in serious tourist mode in this city
so much to see and just as well we have another full day
we originally thought we'd enjoy this portside night out
catch a ballet, some jazz or visit a restaurant
but no chance - dinner on board and then lights out