10 years ago i paid a visit to orvieto - and was totally impressed
the town atop a huge array of caves and tunnels on top of a hill
today we need an outing and found orvieto is in striking distance
about an hour on the autostrade and both keen to re-visit so let's go
an early mistake though as we miss a turnoff and then pay the price
our digital navigator then has us very much experiencing rural roads
down to 1 lane, twisting and turning on at times a very rough surface
good fun actually and some classic scenes of the italian countryside
however it's good to get onto the autostrade and play the racing game
we turnoff as directed and take the climb up the road to orvieto itself
a surprisingly empty carpark though the hot afternoon may be a factor
a walk up through the main street (car-free) and as expected very quiet
we spot the duomo and are soon standing in front of this unique church
it is huge and it's bold striped structure and colourful frontage is striking
good timing for us as an english-speaking guide is about to lead a tour
a bunch of us are then lead down into a small cavern underneath the town
our guide provides an enthralling explanation of the history of the caves
there are more caves than buildings and all dug by hand in search of water
some large enough to host businesses e.g. olive pressing as we are shown
we work our way deeper and examine a deep well - a real heartstopper
it's a constant 14-15 degrees where we are so a contrast to the 35 outside
one hour is enough - claustrophobic? maybe but good to get into the sun
we then take a wander around the main shopping streets of the town
most shops are still closed (siesta or just a late start) but no problem
for we agree - the whole place feels unauthentic and tourist oriented
totally unlike some of the other more genuine towns we have visited
10 years ago the place seemed vibrant - now - it feels kind of tired
perhaps we are being unfairly critical but nonetheless we soon leave
probably not on the agenda for a future return visit - there's others
as we spot on the drive back to home base - small hilltop towns
it's a race down the autostrade and an easy cross-country to home
the gnocchi and gorganzola purchased at orvieta is tonight's meal
delicious - and perfectly balanced with a visit to our local bar
where we teach the lady owner how to make coffee affogato
eaten as we are sitting outside in the balmy nighttime air...
