sunday drive - heading in the opposite direction to yesterday
that was south-east to tivoli - today it's north-west to bagnaia
similar distance and intent with a plan to travel autostrade-free
not much known about bagnaia but it reads well in travel guides
our digital navigator has us all over the place but we follow orders
as picturesque as always with plenty of variety in our surroundings
today a scary moment with an oncoming bus taking a bend recklessly
forcing some late evasive action even though we were well in our lane
taken as a bit of a reminder to not get too comfortable on the back-roads
more fun as a lost italian driver assails us for directions - non parle italian!
the towns we pass through are generally closed for business on this day
sunday is very much respected as the day of rest in rural italy it seems
so when we finally cruise into small town bagnaia we are a bit worried
we are hungry - we left with a plan to indulge in lunch at our destination
relief - we spot a nice looking restaurant with outdoor seating in the square
sun umbrellas already offering shelter to quite a few patrons as we are seated
bonus - a friendly english speaking waitress offers menus also in english
a delicious meal of seafood salad and veal with potatoes is well appreciated
imported dutch beer (norbertus) in pop-top bottles is just as much enjoyed
so with energy levels restored we wander up a side-street to villa lante
built in the 16th century and featuring elaborate gardens and fountains
first impressions - wow - finely manicured greenery and ponds of water
it's looking a bit neglected though and there's only a few people around
we walk up various levels and admire the large and intricate fountains
there's not much water flowing - though not much rain lately either
the views back down the grounds and across the town are spectacular
at the top we spot a lawn that invites us to take a seat and relax a bit
a chance to take it all in and consider our quite unique surroundings
it seems odd this place is not more prominent on the tourist radar
and a suspicion of a catch-22 - tourists are required to fund upkeep
that is not happening to the maximum so the tourists are not coming
as we walk back to town central we are drawn to a large archway
this leads us into a now familiar old town which we wander around
grey is the dominant and consistent colour in this live part of town
a few locals also wandering and welcoming smiles are extended
it's always a privilege to be so close to local's lives and homes
and with that so fulfilling to take the time to enjoy the old town
a pervasive sense that little has changed over many centuries
though curiously qr codes are mentioned on several notices
on the way out we pause for a few moments at the tiny chapel
then it's back to the modern world, into the car and we drive off
next stop - viterbo - a much larger city only 10 minutes away
the afternoon is closing so the plan is to take a quick look around
park the car then walk - onto a long and narrow cobblestone street
shops galore and a few still open including the danish tiger store
a couple of essentials purchased there and we push on further, deeper
we are very much liking this place - it seems to be well loved as well
a stage is spotted for a classical/opera festival that has just started
rows of seats with a backdrop of the lower town and countryside
we examine a map of the historical centre and aim for the duomo
this takes us through piazzas, past more shops and churches
and another outdoor stage and seating for a film festival
yep - definitely going to need a dedicated day/night here
we reverse our steps back to the car, mount up and head off
onto the autostrade for a faster journey - and with it some rain
not much - and an early evening return home for 2 happy travellers...
