random thoughts and comments from nomadic music film and travel junkie - seeks no recognition, claims no expertise

Wednesday 13 July 2016

giorno 24 - perugia














time for side trip number 2 - a one-night overnight stay in perugia
the capital of umbria and currently hosting their annual jazz festival
one of the most respected and patronised jazz festivals on the planet
and significantly for us (me) tonight hosting guitar god pat metheny
it's a couple of hours in the car travelling north-east from home base
we're in autostrade-free mode so some interesting roads and sights
we see towns built on hill-tops surrounded by farming activity
an easy trip really though some narrow lanes arriving at perugia
our digital navigator once again being too clever with shortcuts
we have some accommodation booked close to the concert venue
which is also smack in the centre of town on the peak of a large hill
so a drive up some narrow streets and negotiating a one-way system
street parking seems rare so we abandon the car in a carpark and walk
the mini-metro is spotted - some kind of cable-car - woo-hoo - let's go
oops - the expected ride up is in fact a ride down through the 'burbs
we are travellng on an impressive and modern commuter system
multiple mini carriages moving around a fully automated track
we ride to the end as it provides a great view of the entire city
after a coffee we return then ascend 3 flights of escalators
emerging into the old town and the excitement levels go up
the place is buzzing with people enjoying the festival scene
funk that - a 14 piece brass and percussion group has a crowd
they are at street level with choreography that matches the music
we're then in party mode as we wander around pretty aimlessly
perugia is a fine-looking town and clearly proud of it's heritage
the centre of the etruscan civilisation so there's plenty of museums
we decide no museums for us today but rocca paolina is selected
a huge underground labyrinth of walkways, steps, nooks and rooms
still in use today as it provides passage from the upper to lower town
quite unique and again mind-boggling in scale, design and construction
lunch-time - we sit at an outdoor restaurant admiring this fine city
into the car and drive around to end up close to where we started
our digs are very central so more shops and a hairdresser inspected
a bit of a rest is taken for what should be a grand evening of jazz
it's a 15 minute walk to the main venue with a large open-air stage
looking very civilised - a side area offers a seated dinner and show
ha - the performers are tuck and patti wannabes - sounding good
as we queue up for a table a solo american lady asks to join us
sure - but as we seated it becomes clear - it is tuck and patti
sensational - last saw them in the 1980's and loved them then
tuck is a superb jazz guitarist - patti is a wonderful jazz singer
husband and wife - 38 years of performing and 35 of marriage
what a treat - the buffet is very good but they are the highlight
no hesitation in re-introducing myself from record company days
they recalled the show i mentioned - and loved festival records
noice - we take our seats for the main show in the large crowd
pat metheny and ron carter are introduced and then go to work
it's been over 30 years of listening and admiring pat metheny
so to finally see him perform live is a dream come true for me
especially on this clear, balmy night when the sound is magic
the acoustic guitar and standup bass beautifully intertwined
my concern for this one-off show is validated once or twice
but they are masters and pat metheny is well in control
especially in solo mode on his large multi-necked guitar
a combination of acoustic and bass guitars and a sitar sound
played by one man and superbly amplified on this still night
my head is back, my eyes are closed and my head is filling
their show is nearly 2 hours long yet feels over in no time
confirmation of complete immersion - just the way i like it
we hang around for the next show - the enrico rava band
another favourite jazz performer on the cool ecm label
great funky sound too - he starting out on a flugelhorn
sadly though the rains start after 1 tune - mass exodus
including us - normally i would stay but i am sated
a dash back to our nearby digs and collapse - happy...

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