giorno 36 - ischia

breakfast is enjoyed at our b&b in the town/island of procida
today we are going island-hopping with a plan to get to ischia
a walk to the port and a wait at a cafe so coffee creme is taken
we're on the fast boat to ischia - a large, powerful catamaran
it's a 20 minute trip to this much larger and more famous island
the appeal for one of us - the talented mr ripley was filmed there
as we walk off the pier and towards the town a sign is spotted
scooter hire - a joking suggestion to hire a couple for the day
but why not - the lads are both familiar with motorcycles
in one case it's been a while but isn't it just like riding a....
the deal is done and we head off - 2 scooters and 4 people
we have a classic pale yellow vespa and matching helmets
it's a 125cc machine with no gearbox that pulls really well
we find this out early on as immediately we're heading up
we're on a route that should take us right around the island
over 20 kilometres of winding and climbing roads we are told
a bit of a nervous start but then quickly back into the groove
the other team have a bit more power and a bit less weight
so it's a challenge to balance rusty skills and need for speed
the first stop is at a lookout over the sea looking westward
photos taken and agreement we have made the right choice
with the limited time we have we will see a lot of the island
we mount up and ride to sant'angelo - the most southern point
the island is populous so we are constantly in towns and traffic
upon arrival we park the machines and walk down to the water
past shops closed for siesta and restaurants looking mostly empty
this small peninsula is clearly a popular spot also with a marina
we look onto that while enjoying lunch under some sun umbrellas
so hot - and into the sea we go at a rocky point with deep pools
as we emerge dark clouds are emerging so everyone is rushing
including us - the thought of a long ride back in rain concerning
no choice but to complete the circumnavigation of the island
and we head up, and up to take in spectacular views all around
fortunately the rain is brief though extra caution is required
somehow the gang splits in 2 close to the main town (ischia)
and we miss out on viewing the houses of the famous film
but we have seen so much more on this 2 wheel adventure
machines returned, cafe and coffee found, the ferry boarded
it's a long haul on this large slow vessel back to the mainland
but as the sun sinks we have great views in all directions
the car is recovered and then it's a near 3 hour drive north
a midnight arrival back at torrita tiberina for 4 tired people...

giorno 35 - procida

the famous italian isle of capri - often heard about but never visited
it was on the agenda for today but some research changed our minds
various respected commentators warning of crowds and disappointment
where people go to see the rich and famous - but only find their prices
so scratch that - let's find another island worth a visit - procida it is
it reads well, is relatively less tourist oriented and is within easy reach
we bid farewell to our favourite little town of cetara and head north
bypassing naples and heading to the ferry terminal at rione terra
we ditch the car in a hotel carpark, load up and walk to the ferry
a 40 minute journey north and west then delivers us to the island
first impression - it is busy with buildings and boats but looks fine
a walk through the main town and up a narrow cobblestone lane
sharing the lane with scooters and small vehicles requires diligence
often having to duck into doorways to make room for the local bus
one classic moment as a red fiat bambino rumbles up and passes
the elderly driver recognises our fascination and toots and waves
our rooms are part of a very large house now an upmarket b&b
bruno our host is welcoming and informative on the must-sees
and so follows a trek across the town-island to a secluded beach
it's a busy place with a constant stream of vehicles and walkers
the place does feel very lived in and not overrun with tourists
just what we wanted really - another taste of real italian life
the beach - well - black sand, quite rocky and below a cliff
not as picturesque as imagined but a pleasant swim is had
a lot of boating activity is seen between us and the mainland
it was a long hike across the island so we decide to bus it back
the driver has mere centimetres on either side but hammers it
which makes the quick journey back an experience in itself
we shower and relax for a while in the common lounge area
get ourselves suitably set up for a night out and walk down
and down - to the marina area where it's all boats and no cars
the best restaurants are here too and bruno has suggested three
it's a beautiful outlook with the setting sun on the pastel houses
the clear water lapping on the impressive range of moored boats
we select a restaurant - alas no reservation - but nods are exchanged
the waiter then leads us to a large recess in a wall with an empty table
seems we have scored the executive table which is promptly set up
we are pinching ourselves as we examine the menu and setting
black lobster is ordered and then offered up live for approval
the resultant dish and a sea urchin pasta dish most delicious
house red wine is of a similar standard as are the desserts
we people-watch and are equally checked out by passers
with a definite sense of who-are-they-to-sit-at-that-table
we lap it up as long as possible in this quite unique place
after the plan was to check out the best gelataria in town
which we do - but full tummies mean no full indulgence
a wander back to our overnight home and 4 happy people...

giorno 34 - ravello parte 2

saturday morning - today's plan is all about relaxation
we are staying in a beautiful apartment in a beautiful town
the first task is to gather up some suitable breakfast goodies
such a pleasure to amble on the streets of this authentic place
the small shop next door has the usual array of food essentials
we purchase fresh ricotta cheese, marinated eggplants, prosciutto
further down the road we peruse a great selection of fresh produce
peaches, apricots, strawberries, tomatoes, figs all at their very best
there's people coming and going and friendly greetings exchanged
the universal feeling of ease on a saturday morning loud and clear
we then sit outside on our little deck and enjoy the gathered food
a plan is hatched - let's get on a boat and see the coast off-shore
we consider the options - the inter-town ferry seems the best
so down to the wharf we go and wait - and watch - lots to see
pleasure craft are coming and going and people are swimming
a real summer vibe here in this place on this hot and sunny day
on the ferry we claim positions on the top deck and head west
a good distance off-shore provides a wonderful view of the coast
we can see the snaking road we are used to driving and much more
secluded bays, derelict ruins, lemon groves, hilltop houses are in view
as are the major towns along the coast of which a couple are ferry stops
the town of amalfi is the final stop where we disembark and walk towards
we make a direct line for the old part of town surrounding small piazzas
first impression today - busy - the summer season has definitely kicked in
as have the prices - we are surprised at the costs at a small outdoor cafe
a walk then up to the top of the main street with shops on both sides
all the usual offerings, all the usual types of tourists, all a bit average
we decide our little town of cetara has it all over amalfi for authenticity
definitely a case of too much love here - still - it is a very special place
a swim is required and we all plunge into the cool mediterranean sea
it is cool and refreshing and we only emerge when told we have to
seems the place we have selected is a bit to close to the ferry action
which we are soon on board and returning to our home base at cetara
it's a relatively quick turnaround there with a need to get to ravello
into the car, along the coast again and then the drive up to the town
tonight we have another concert to attend - the rai symphonia
rai being the state owned radio/tv network - this their orchestra
we take our seats and watch as sheet music is taken by a breeze
this could be a problem but is forgotten by the time the music starts
everyone seems well in control as they play their first wagner piece
it is dusk now and the views are simply stunning in this magical place
the music actually composed by wagner upon visiting these gardens
part 2 - debussey - la mer - longer and with a loud climactic ending
as you would expect the orchestra seems to be responding to the setting
the 5 percussionists at the rear in particular putting on a great show
after an interlude the orchestra returns for prokofiev's romeo and juliet
it's a long piece and totally absorbing with darkness now upon us
some parts of this piece are recognised by this classical novice
a standing ovation by all at the conclusion and even an encore
the main motif is then repeat played with added gusto it seems
we find ourselves humming that on the coastal return journey
even at this late hour it is busy with the towns all crowded
saturday night in this part of the world is party time it seems...

giorno 33 - ravello parte 1

a big day planned today - culminating in a concert at 10pm
but first we have to drive back to naples to pick up a guest
he due to fly in from london this evening in time for the show
we have a 3 hour gap between landing and showtime - enough
the plan is to spend the afternoon in naples then airport then back
part 1 - naples - no problems - it's a one hour drive back from amalfi
the first part negotiating the winding coastal roads with stunning views
then hit the autostrade and follow our digital navigators instructions
the road system in and out of naples is mind-boggling in complexity
an endless array of roads, ramps, flyovers, exits, loops and turns
we follow our navigators instructions precisely to our target point
this being a parking station located close to the historical centre
the small station down a narrow ramp off a very narrow lane
so once again thankful that our vehicle of choice is diminutive
happy then to get onto foot and head back into napoli old town
mother and daughter are going to visit some must-see sights
leaving this one to self-indulge with a visit to the famous madre
a museum of contemporary art located in easy walking distance
found and enjoyed - 4 floors of installations, art and photography
currently featuring the output of a mid 20th century photographer
all black and white and of all manner of subjects common to naples
shown in projection, single frames and multi-frame presentations
totally engrossing - but - not much sleep had last night - nap-time
a quiet corner easily found in this quiet place with few visitors
waking to a start and realising time is now at a critical point
a pre-arranged meetup is looming - and - gulp - no gps signal
nevermind - heading in - ah - that direction should get me back
up and down some steep streets that feel distinctly locals-only
glad it is still daylight and eventually a known street is located
a late and tense rendezvous is made - but now - plane delayed
3 hours - damn - that is going to clash with our concert big time
his loss - we are not going to miss it so we collect car and exit
an interesting drive out of naples at peak hour friday afternoon
then an alternative route up and over the range behind amalfi
a long, steady, twisting climb with stunning views of naples
the bay, city, larger area and mount vesuvious all in frame
the sun dropping over the horizon as the cameras click away
we are heading to the town of ravello high up from the coast
park the car, walk and with 30 minutes spare we coffee up
the ravello festival runs for many nights on one glorious stage
set on the top of a cliff with the mediterranean sea as a backdrop
so the audience looks down on to the stage to the view beyond
tim robbins (actor/director) is booked with his 8 piece band

his left-wing political leanings sure to be worked into the show

a low-key start - solo trumpet, bowed double bass and his voice
a sombre tune with incisive lyrics referencing the wealth gap
then a classic irish tune and the band is now settling down well
the sound itself is so clear on this beautiful still summer night
most of the tunes are his own compositions and well explained
he taking the time to talk briefly of his inspirations and mentors
some covers also from the likes of john lee hooker and pete seegar
a clear nod to his audience also with a cover of moon over naples
this as a near full and large moon sits in our view over the stage
which pretty well summed up the night's performance - special
chubby checker's let's twist again has the audience dancing
this as we slip away and deal with an hour long coastal drive
the lad has trained it from naples airport to nearby salerno
a successful rendezvous is made and then back to cetara
what a day - a lot of ground covered and an amazing gig...

giorno 32 - cetara

we're off on another side trip today - the amalfi coast
following a glorious day spent there several weeks back
this time we've booked ourselves in for 3 days in cetara
we've also booked a couple of shows at the ravello festival
a later than planned getaway sees us on the autostrade 10-ish
then plain sailing for nearly 3 hours to our first stop at sorrento
deja vu strikes as we park, walk, and look at familiar places
there's definitely more people about as we wander the streets
mainly cobblestone lanes jammed full with all sorts of shops
but it's lunchtime so we walk down to the town's foreshore
spot a restaurant at the end of a pier and take up residence
we seafood and eat it - the lightly fried anchovies are tops
but the coast is calling and we reverse steps and drive on
within 30 minutes we are on the now familiar coast road
first stop - positano - nestled in the cliffs with a small beach
the path to the beach down through a retail-infested walkway
pretty though with classy shops, art and overhead grape vines
a cafe freddo is enjoyed overlooking the now crowded beach
it does seem that the summer holidays have kicked in here
this becomes more evident once back on the (narrow) road
the views are unbelievable but not all of us can enjoy them
there is full concentration needed to keep our small car safe
a steady stream of oncoming traffic constantly challenges us
scooters and the occasional car overtake with a hint of chance
right hand gear changes are needed often on this twisting road
all quite good fun really and so glad to be in a quite small car
but - we do not escape unscathed - a parked car has a door opened
our right side mirror meeting with said door and luckily snapped in
but the force pops and shatters the mirror - we stop - we discuss
we decide to check the other party's vehicle - but - it has gone
they have left the scene - convincing us they were to blame
driving though now becomes one more level of challenging
so it is a relief to reach our destination - cetera - an hour later
cetera is a small town on the eastern end of the amalfi coast
once a fishing village now also compromised by tourism
driving up the road to our booked apartment is revealing
it feels so - real - way more locals than tourists - this is good
our host meets us and leads us up to our top floor residence
large, sparkling clean and recently renovated with 2 bedrooms
an outdoor area backdropped with the mountains of the coast
we unpack, set up and take a walk back down to the village
pick a restaurant from plenty of options and have a fine meal
outdoors in the warm night - serenaded by two fine musicians
swim-time - we then plunge into the cool mediterranean sea
we float in the water and look back at this most serene view
the town of pastel-coloured buildings bathed in moonlight
flanked by steep, high hills - and a starlit night - bewdiful

giorno 31 - roma in bici

no surprise really but it's a late start for all on this hot day
we have an evening appointment for a bike tour of rome
in the meantime - there's a plan for a shopping mall visit
the promise of a large air-conditioned centre is also appealing
in 30 easy minutes we commute from rural italy to urban rome
inside the cool centre we agree self-indulgence is the best plan
so the ladies head off on a hunting and gathering expedition
sitting alongside a specialist coffee bar passes the time quickly
while communicating with people on the other side of the world
yes - the italians love their coffee - espresso shots sell in volume
this place looking like a pitstop before getting back into the race
we find a popular shop selling filled and toasted paninis - yummo
then it's a push into the heart of rome as we approach peak hour
feeling quite confident these days with the busy rome traffic
the lack of rules (or lack of observation) now making sense
the one unwritten rule dominates - we are all equals on the road
so give a little, take a little, stick to your course, relax and focus
parking ticket machines seem to be largely ignored but we partake
if nothing else we are helping the rome economy in a small way
load up and walk across a bridge to find the nearest suitable cafe
while an important phone call is made we sip beer and observe
the ears picking up a constant stream of 70s era british rock music
which does seem incongruous in this classy wine bar and cafe
but it works for me as we kill some time before the bike ride
at the appointed place we are part of a group of 20 or so others
the aussies dominate on this english-speaking tour led by simone
he a local with a good and humorous command of that language
we are set up with our machines and off we go on this 4 hour tour
first stop - the jewish quarter where simone's skills come to the fore
he is knowledgeable, articulate, proud and clearly left-wing oriented
the brief history lesson here on italy and italians totally engrossing
then it's single file through a maze of back-streets and small piazzas
this revealing a side of rome previously unseen - locals doing their thing
than in itself is appreciated - they seem well used to the tourist invasion
a stop at a bar selling one euro gelatos and cheap beer is well enjoyed
and we move on - the pattern is set - ride, stop, listen, learn, repeat
we cross the river and gaze at an abandoned bridge aged 2000 years
likewise a large waterway built 2500 years ago - he has us hooked
pointing at landmarks that surround us in the centre of ancient rome
and the story of remus and romulus - the city's founding brothers
simone warned us - no trevi fountain, no spanish steps - good-o
the mouth of truth is shown and dismissed as a tourist scam
then we overlook the huge, dry and abandoned circus maximus
last seen with a stage set up to host bruce springsteen - groan
but historically chariot races were the centre of attention here
we ride to and circle the ruins of the enormous baths of caracalla
observe an outdoor opera being rehearsed and gaze at st johns
that basilica noted of much more significance than st peters
with that an agreement a visit is required there when possible
as night falls we confidently circle the imposing colosseum
more engrossing history lessons on this still and warm night
the hours have ripped by and our final stop is perhaps the best
palatine hill - a hard ride to the top with stunning sights to see
we are parked at the musei capitolini designed by michaelangelo
then descend to an outlook over the now lit up roman forum
breath-taking really - and then a final further descent and cruise
back to our starting point, thanks and payment offered and accepted
we find an outdoor restaurant to fill the tummies and discuss the ride
totally fulfilling and another case of biking in a city the way to go
the drive home a bit of a struggle but nice to get back to home base
well past midnight and some issues to deal with - but - what a day....

giorno 30 - gita di un giorno 2

another highlights package today for our current visitor
last week we had one day in perugia and another in assisi
today we are visiting both and bookended with a big drive
it's a 2 hour drive up the autostrade and across first to assisi
coming from a different direction today and missing the view
last week on approach this impressive town loomed up in front
today we kind of sneak in the back way which is underwhelming
still - being there is the point as we walk down into this olde town
seeing it a second time within a week and it still looks so special
the common use of a cream-coloured brick/block dominates
today we are more precise on our choice of points-of-interest
part of our team head off to the basilica di san francesco
the numero uno destination for tourists and italian pilgrims
a beautiful building on the outside - inside - overwhelming
there are a lot of people around today and watching is easy
sitting in a shady spot in the main square simply observing
a few hours later we rendezvous at the famous bibenda wine bar
highly rated on trip adviser and a world away from the basilica
our host recommends the best local wine and antipasto dishes
sitting in a shady spot indulging more senses is intoxicating
but - we have to move it - into the car and we then drive up
and up and up,,,4 kms to the hermitage of eremo della carceri
a retreat used by saint francis and other friars in the 13th century
their love of nature shown with various paths heading into the bush
various caves, grottos and small dwellings seen at secluded spots
the main large building a wonder of design and construction
many small modest rooms connected by low, narrow passages
the views - unbelievable and so easy to honour the signs
this area is a place of prayer and serenity - please respect
another case of trying to work out the construction process
and the sheer effort in transporting materials to this mountaintop
time to move - again - we descend and park below assisi proper
the late afternoon sun on the large white town is astonishing
cameras go crazy and then we are heading back to perugia
also last visited less than a week ago so familiar with the roads
we score a park close to the old city and walk the streets again
the jazz festival is over so it is calmer - good for shopping
or sitting in a bar downing a cold local beer and watching
and listening - a solo accordianist plays grace jones - nice
we have some train tickets left over and hit the mini-metro
run to the end of the line affording a view over larger perugia
and repeat play with a cream coffee before the return trip
find the car, hit the autostrade and 2 hours later we are home
the over-flowing fridge is plundered for a late night meal
it's been another big day of largely repeat plays - but so good

giorno 29 - gita di un giorno 1

we've spent 4 weeks based in the area of lazio north of rome
and now with a guest we are going to do a couple of day trips
re-visiting some spots like the tour-guides we pretend to be
today we are more or less repeating a trip from our first week
heading one hour north-west to the beautiful town of calcata
a small and ancient settlement perched on the side of a hill
it kind of appears out of nowhere and is quite breath-taking
there's a lot of towns on the top of hills but this one is special
it just seems to blend in so well with it's natural environment
we park the car and walk through and up a narrow walkway
opening onto a town that today is very quiet but welcoming
monday is likely their down-day after looking after tourists
great for us as we wander once again in the narrow streets
those streets only ever intended for meandering foot-traffic
each laneway ending with a spectacular cliff-top outlook
a mixture of homes, cafes, restaurants, shops and studios
as we previously discovered this town is loved by artists
and us too - we will return - but for now we push on north
lake bracciano is beckoning and a fresh water swim awaits
but first - lunch - we cannot resist a return to a familiar place
we are seated outdoors in the shade of trees overlooking the lake
a meal based around freshwater fish and white wine is consumed
a few other diners around and the most willing of service staff
pinch-me stuff in this simply glorious setting - but - swim time
it's a hot day and the cool water of the lake is very refreshing
there's a buoy out there that needs to be reached - close enough
it is surprisingly choppy but also exhilarating in the clear water
happy to hang on to the buoy to reclaim breath after a hard swim
a mixture of elation and anxiety here and now - lets get back in
an instant sun-dry and we head off to our next stop - viterbo
trip adviser has suggested there's thermal springs in the area
the controls are set and we arrive - but - commercial it is not
that is - kind of neglected - and kind of under-whelming also
but we dangle legs and walk in a pool of hot sulphorous water
feels - good - worth the effort we agree as we head to the city
park the car and take a walk in a now familiar old part of viterbo
we're a bit late - the town is closing but we enjoy a wander anyway
this town hosts italy's gold reserves which may explain the feeling
there's money here - and lots of clothing shops chasing it too
out hour-long visit is soon over (enough) so time to get home
down the autostrade, exit right and onto some familiar roads
a late night had after a long (day) trip but satisfied as always
we plunder the fridge and assume horizontal positions - g'night...

giorno 28 - roma di notte parte 2

sunday - our little town is in post-party recovery mode
it's very quiet out there and we are also running on gentle
shame about a bit of a crisis in a client store back in sydney
requiring many hours of recovery work to get past the issue
our wireless connection and skype/teamviewer save the day
so, so lucky to have those tools to use on this global scale
however that unexpected issue cuts into our day trip plan
our third attempt to visit the coastal town of anzio scuttled
the afternoon then spent in chill-out mode in our cool home
but there's a visitor in transit - flying from london for a week
so we once again head south on the now familiar road to rome
jump onto the ring road and follow directions to fiumicino airport
it's a bit nerve-racking dealing with the traffic in this busy place
but the pickup area is found as is the daughter and we are off
we head back into central rome for a sunday evening wander
circle vatican city, park alongside the river and cross over
piazza navona is re-visited and is buzzing with activity
in a bit of a deja vu we pick a restaurant and settle in
damn - again - the nearest busker sings american tunes
i wish away him, his guitar and amplifier - to no avail
we enjoy a fine bottle of wine and two average pizzas
and acknowledge that we are in a special place tonight
the huge granite fountains dominating the centre area
as the night falls we drop into people-watching mode
a mixture of ambling tourists and hawkers plying euros
the usual laserlights, flying toys, necklaces and bracelets
they are all polite though - ignore them and they reciprocate
this piazza also hosts a number of artists at work or selling
some of the modern art inspected seems of a very high quality
a photographer with a series of black and white shots of rome
each one with a bright red fiat bambino somewhere in frame
our own euros stay in our pockets except for one temptation
gelato - as we walk away down a narrow lane we are drawn
there's a small queue, take-a-ticket and some enticing flavours
the usual selection problem but when done - yes - top quality
we wander across the river towards castel sant'angelo (again)
late on this sunday evening it is open - we consider entering
but we are tired and we have an hour long drive to complete
including getting out of central rome which requires focus
up the autostrade, hang a left, a winding narrow road - home...

giorno 27 - roma di notte

another mild day - relatively - the temperature is in the mid 20s
it's also groundhog day with no plan except hanging out at home
we have a fully stocked fridge and a need to stare at the laptops
which works pretty well until mid afternoon and a bad discovery
coffee - out of it - and it's afternoon siesta time so no shops open
fortunately our friendly lady owner at the bar is in cleaning mode
and extends her trading hours to prime us with a pair of espressos
her other most regular customer (partner?) is also hanging around
he's most excited - gesticulating at a small poster on the shop wall
seems there's a party in town tonight - and we think we are invited
as evening rolls around there's definite movement in the town square
but we now have a plan - rome - on a saturday night too hard to resist
by now our commuting skills are solid - the digital navigator is backup
a handy fallback on lane selection though and tonight a warning supplied
seems there's heavy congestion in our target road alongside the tiber river
we ignore the warning and suffer - it's chockers and we are now crawling
there's something going on - no carparks and people are standing, waiting
it's a good 30 minutes or so searching for and trying on carparks for size
admiring the ingenuity of the locals with some of their chosen options
sideways smart cars that dominate the roads here are in their element
us amateurs finally park a good 30 minutes hike from rome central
but no worries - it's all new territory and the evening is very pleasant
still - what is going on - even the police on duty are a bit vague there
some kind of religious procession it seems - we take a wine and wait
soon enough a small number of people in robes and with banners pass
the crowds then thin out and we head to the river and are drawn down
we walk amongst markets, bars, restaurants set up in various sized tents
the sun is setting and party mode is building with a great atmosphere
corn on the cob from an elder gent is purchased and eaten as we walk
we have deliberately placed ourselves in the historical centre of rome
before long we are peering into the sprawling ruins of the roman forum
this being the epicentre of the roman empire for thousands of years
it is simply mind-boggling to consider the long history of this place
we are feeling decidedly ignorant and agree some research is required
what a great evening for wandering though - next stop around the corner
the equally impressive though much newer monument of altare della patria
the altar of the fatherland - otherwise known to tourists as the wedding cake
gleaming white marble the reason for that name - and a mountain of it used
flags are at half mast (the tragedy in nice?) and there's a full moon above it
there's only one word to describe it - awesome - and here that word fits
even in the fading light of the day this structure is strikingly beautiful
as we walk off we once again feel vindicated in our choice of time
these evening visits to rome are just so enjoyable and relaxing
wandering back to our car we pass along lanes of revellers
so many restaurants and even at 10pm doing a roaring trade
we strike more congestion on the roads leading out of rome
but with that we self-congratulate on the here-and-now of this
we are in rome on a summer's evening and driving like locals
an hour later we are back in torrita tiberina and the party is on
the music is pumping, people are dancing and hanging out
there are people of all ages simply enjoying the occasion
happy - us too - as the music outlasts these 2 weary people...

giorno 26 - torrita tiberina (casa)

relief at last - the hot sunny days have backed off a bit
today it is cool and cloudy so perfect for just hanging out
not much movement is planned today - and guilt-free too
we're into our 9th week of near constant and happy travel
a day of alternative activities (or not) is the order of this day
for one there's business needing attending and administering
and for the other there are more trips to be planned and booked
first up next week when daughter wants to visit the amalfi coast
followed by another friend and daughter - north italy here we come
back in nz our little touring business has demand for expeditions
requiring a good amount of time for planning and making bookings
all good - enjoyment is the key - and there's no end of that so far
for today we happily park ourselves inside our comfortable home
an agreement that this base has made all the difference on this trip
our last expedition to europe 2 years ago was rewarding but tiring
lugging suitcases over a long period of time no longer an option
so good to have a familiar space at the end of nearly every day
familiar faces in the local shops also a factor - little do they know
as this day passes and work and plans are completed we question
an evening in rome maybe? - within an hour we would be there
na - tomorrow maybe - how about a return to the shopping centre?
yep - there's supplies required and a whole centre to investigate
30 minutes later we are parking the car underneath the centre
up a couple of escalators and now back in familiar territory
to start with at least but then we walk, and walk, and walk
this place is huge, the shops are huge, the prices - not so
we are pleasantly surprised at that - and across the board
clothing in particular seems decently priced so we indulge
consumer electronics also - a multi-level store is inspected
we consider a stop at the food hall but nothing too inviting
even food halls are consistent in shopping centres worldwide
we then return to megastore auchen - food - time to stock up
with so much fun to be had cruising the aisles and counters
picking up the essentials - olives, cheese, prosciutto, bread
the panteria is well inspected - and a tray of goodies created
the drive back is enjoyed with a bag of italian potato chips
at home more food indulgence before a needed early night...

giorno 25 - assisi

day 2 of our 2 day expedition north east to the centre of umbria
yesterday a highly satisfactory attendance at the umbria jazz festival
the t-shirt bought, the concert attended, the experience - treasured
today we are back on the culture trail with a visit to the town of assisi
a bit of prior reading and recommendation puts it on the must see list
on approach we see a large basilica atop a giant fortress construction
both part of a large town overlapping the peak of an even larger hill
from a distance we can see a commonality in building materials
an off-white block construction providing a picturesque scene
it's a zig-zag road to the top and we deposit the c1 in a carpark
we load up and see people emerging and going into a laneway
that'll do - we follow and pick up on some signage leading us in
as we walk down we agree - this place is unique and looks good
the roads and houses of the same colour and block construction
and so tidy with flower boxes providing the odd splash of colour
arrival at a large piazza and there's serious tourist activity happening
the tourist information centre arms us with a map of must-see locations
we head off to the southern end of town to visit basilica di san francesco
and what a picture - a huge white building on a blue sky background
there's a steady stream of people passing through a secuity check
we join them and pick up a couple of audio guides for the visit
first up - the lower church where visitors are invited to prayer
it is beautifully decorated including large and colourful frescoes
the voices in our head providing an enlightening history lesson
the basilica was built in the 13th century under papal instruction
saint francis of assisi's body is interned in a lower crypt here
down a flight of stairs and we enter the small and plain crypt
this is a very special place where the patron saint of italy lies
we are 2 of  4 million visitors a year drawn to pay their respects
a few minutes in the crypt and a sense of calm and good pervades
and with that we walk up a tall outer staircase to the upper church
what a beautiful interior filled with light from stained glass windows
a series of quite brightly painted large frescoes surround the walls
the story of st francis's life and each described on our audio guide
time kind of stands still in this place but soon we are back outside
it's a hot, sunny day and the monks in charge must be feeling it
dressed in their dark flowing robes and leading large tour groups
the surroundings of the basilica are quite extraordinary as well
a large lawn and a long striped facade with a columned path
we head away down a street with cafes and souvenir shops
unusually even the souvenirs have a certain class about them
consulting our map we then take a long walk to some piazzas
there's more basilicas to inspect and more wonder to be had
it's clearly a modern town too with schools and businesses
lunch at a small cafe under sun umbrellas and time to pause
what a beautiful town - we will return - but next - the castle
we resist the 180 steps to the top and take the car (too hot)
it's a small castle with battlements and a central tower
a torture room with implements on display is chilling
and the stunning views - 360 degrees far and wide
a great way to end our visit - into the car and away
it's a couple of hours enjoyable drive back home
interrupted by a needed snooze - superb 2 days...

giorno 24 - perugia

time for side trip number 2 - a one-night overnight stay in perugia
the capital of umbria and currently hosting their annual jazz festival
one of the most respected and patronised jazz festivals on the planet
and significantly for us (me) tonight hosting guitar god pat metheny
it's a couple of hours in the car travelling north-east from home base
we're in autostrade-free mode so some interesting roads and sights
we see towns built on hill-tops surrounded by farming activity
an easy trip really though some narrow lanes arriving at perugia
our digital navigator once again being too clever with shortcuts
we have some accommodation booked close to the concert venue
which is also smack in the centre of town on the peak of a large hill
so a drive up some narrow streets and negotiating a one-way system
street parking seems rare so we abandon the car in a carpark and walk
the mini-metro is spotted - some kind of cable-car - woo-hoo - let's go
oops - the expected ride up is in fact a ride down through the 'burbs
we are travellng on an impressive and modern commuter system
multiple mini carriages moving around a fully automated track
we ride to the end as it provides a great view of the entire city
after a coffee we return then ascend 3 flights of escalators
emerging into the old town and the excitement levels go up
the place is buzzing with people enjoying the festival scene
funk that - a 14 piece brass and percussion group has a crowd
they are at street level with choreography that matches the music
we're then in party mode as we wander around pretty aimlessly
perugia is a fine-looking town and clearly proud of it's heritage
the centre of the etruscan civilisation so there's plenty of museums
we decide no museums for us today but rocca paolina is selected
a huge underground labyrinth of walkways, steps, nooks and rooms
still in use today as it provides passage from the upper to lower town
quite unique and again mind-boggling in scale, design and construction
lunch-time - we sit at an outdoor restaurant admiring this fine city
into the car and drive around to end up close to where we started
our digs are very central so more shops and a hairdresser inspected
a bit of a rest is taken for what should be a grand evening of jazz
it's a 15 minute walk to the main venue with a large open-air stage
looking very civilised - a side area offers a seated dinner and show
ha - the performers are tuck and patti wannabes - sounding good
as we queue up for a table a solo american lady asks to join us
sure - but as we seated it becomes clear - it is tuck and patti
sensational - last saw them in the 1980's and loved them then
tuck is a superb jazz guitarist - patti is a wonderful jazz singer
husband and wife - 38 years of performing and 35 of marriage
what a treat - the buffet is very good but they are the highlight
no hesitation in re-introducing myself from record company days
they recalled the show i mentioned - and loved festival records
noice - we take our seats for the main show in the large crowd
pat metheny and ron carter are introduced and then go to work
it's been over 30 years of listening and admiring pat metheny
so to finally see him perform live is a dream come true for me
especially on this clear, balmy night when the sound is magic
the acoustic guitar and standup bass beautifully intertwined
my concern for this one-off show is validated once or twice
but they are masters and pat metheny is well in control
especially in solo mode on his large multi-necked guitar
a combination of acoustic and bass guitars and a sitar sound
played by one man and superbly amplified on this still night
my head is back, my eyes are closed and my head is filling
their show is nearly 2 hours long yet feels over in no time
confirmation of complete immersion - just the way i like it
we hang around for the next show - the enrico rava band
another favourite jazz performer on the cool ecm label
great funky sound too - he starting out on a flugelhorn
sadly though the rains start after 1 tune - mass exodus
including us - normally i would stay but i am sated
a dash back to our nearby digs and collapse - happy...

giorno 23 - rome parte 4

part 2 of the dentist experience kind of cuts into today
though way too hot to consider anything too adventurous
mr dentist also stating that this summer is quite extraordinary
so we wait until late afternoon and then take the c1 for a spin
autostrade - we're feeling ultra-confident now with the roads
so have set the controls for central rome by the tiber river
an easy and direct drive and parking options are a-plenty
walk along the river, across a bridge and into olde rome
we're surprised at how quiet it is and put it down to heat
the locals are not coping - all have gone home and indoors
or maybe it's just the time of day and the rush is yet to hit
either way - good for us - we easily slip into cruise mode
so easy to be seduced by the feeling of this time in this place
walking on ancient streets and being part of the timelessness
we recognise the french flag on their huge and ominous embassy                      
pass through the piazza of campo de fiori which is starting to buzz
we push on as it's time to check out the iconic pantheon building
our google guide warns us it may be closed by the time we arrive
and once again - kudos to google - what an amazing tourism tool
sure enough the last people are being admitted as we show up
no matter as it's all about the journey and not the destination
we shall return but for tonight it's time for food and relaxation
an alternative route is selected to return to campo de fiori
it's a heady mixture of shops, commuters, tourists and locals
sensing a very healthy co-existence and respect for all here
small and specialist shops dominate and demand attention
one shop fronted by a gent seen painting pinocchio puppets
we select a cafe and watch the stream of street entertainers
most enticing tonight is a troupe of south american musicians
combining their hypnotic music with incredible acrobatic skills
they pull a big crowd and we almost forgive the slow service
but 45 minutes for a couple of beers and a pizza is a bit much
no issue - it seems the apprentices are on duty on this evening
we decide to make tracks and walk back towards the tiber river
across a different bridge hosting a selection of north african vendors
a superb 3 piece band featuring a didgeridoo and twin hang drums
and down riverside there seems to be a permanent night market
it's a beautiful balmy evening with ample photo opportunities
we find our car and then settle in for an exit on now busy roads
but all goes well as we hold our nerve in the streets at night
possibly relaxing a bit early with a wrong exit road selected
a bit of angst then getting back on track to the autostrade
but within an hour of departure we are back in our house
yep - definitely at ease now with rome evening expeditions...

giorno 22 - paradiso culinario

a rest day planned today with an idea for a evening visit to rome
a wander to the bar for iced coffee and pastries and the heat is on
35 degrees plus of hot, dry and still heat - the sun is a scorcher
supplies are brought in and most of the day spent trying to chill
we get word of 2 lots of visitors so some bedding logistics to sort
the decision to get an airbed to double the number of beds in-house
a large shopping centre is googled on the eastern outskirts of tome
a 30 minute blast down the autostrade should get us there easily
an accurate timing as we cruise into the huge underground carpark
up a couple of flights of escalators and we spot the first shop - apple
we are suckered into the coolness of this huge mall and amble away
first stop is a large clothing store full of ok and cheap-ish fashions
it is bright and loud but with a faux marble floor is kind of classy
it's been a long time since we have been in this kind of environment
back to the real world in a sense - at least homogenised shopping
the language may be different but everything else is very familiar
we do not resist the cheap and unique (for us) clothes on display
heading then into auchan - 3 floors of consumer products galore
we know our airbed is in here somewhere so a-wandering we go
spotted second floor up - examined, compared, agreed - purchased
next - let's check out the food floor - oh yes - mind-boggling in scale
starting out in the fruit and vegetable department - so cheap, so fresh
so much - we scoop up trays of figs, tomatoes and zucchini flowers
we resist more as we have an upcoming drive into the heat of rome
which really becomes problematic as we inspect the cheese section
never seen before such an assortment of flavours, cuts and packaging
then there's the deli, the meats, the pasta, the seafood and the pantry
oh the pantry - free samples, biscuits, cakes, desserts and tiramisu
we point to 4 different sweets - 2 of each grazie - total of 2 euros!
by now we have abandoned the plan for an excursion into rome
we agree we are in foodie heaven - paradiso culinaro - go crazy
not quite with another mini-trip coming up but a trolley is filled
checkout - 30 euros - amazing value and an excited drive home
still blistering hot as we lug our purchases up into our house
do a dash in the heat to obtain another 2 euro wine refill
and then - oh yes - a delicious cold meal of new goodies
olives, tomatoes, artichokes and smoked cheese sticks
sliced figs and prosciutto spread on crusty bread
followed by a chocolate eclair and a cannoli
and a cold wine - yep - paradiso culinario..

giorno 21 - bagnaia

sunday drive - heading in the opposite direction to yesterday
that was south-east to tivoli - today it's north-west to bagnaia
similar distance and intent with a plan to travel autostrade-free
not much known about bagnaia but it reads well in travel guides
our digital navigator has us all over the place but we follow orders
as picturesque as always with plenty of variety in our surroundings
today a scary moment with an oncoming bus taking a bend recklessly
forcing some late evasive action even though we were well in our lane
taken as a bit of a reminder to not get too comfortable on the back-roads
more fun as a lost italian driver assails us for directions - non parle italian!
the towns we pass through are generally closed for business on this day
sunday is very much respected as the day of rest in rural italy it seems
so when we finally cruise into small town bagnaia we are a bit worried
we are hungry - we left with a plan to indulge in lunch at our destination
relief - we spot a nice looking restaurant with outdoor seating in the square
sun umbrellas already offering shelter to quite a few patrons as we are seated
bonus - a friendly english speaking waitress offers menus also in english
a delicious meal of seafood salad and veal with potatoes is well appreciated
imported dutch beer (norbertus) in pop-top bottles is just as much enjoyed
so with energy levels restored we wander up a side-street to villa lante
built in the 16th century and featuring elaborate gardens and fountains
first impressions - wow - finely manicured greenery and ponds of water
it's looking a bit neglected though and there's only a few people around
we walk up various levels and admire the large and intricate fountains
there's not much water flowing - though not much rain lately either
the views back down the grounds and across the town are spectacular
at the top we spot a lawn that invites us to take a seat and relax a bit
a chance to take it all in and consider our quite unique surroundings
it seems odd this place is not more prominent on the tourist radar
and a suspicion of a catch-22 - tourists are required to fund upkeep
that is not happening to the maximum so the tourists are not coming
as we walk back to town central we are drawn to a large archway
this leads us into a now familiar old town which we wander around
grey is the dominant and consistent colour in this live part of town
a few locals also wandering and welcoming smiles are extended
it's always a privilege to be so close to local's lives and homes
and with that so fulfilling to take the time to enjoy the old town
a pervasive sense that little has changed over many centuries
though curiously qr codes are mentioned on several notices
on the way out we pause for a few moments at the tiny chapel
then it's back to the modern world, into the car and we drive off
next stop - viterbo - a much larger city only 10 minutes away
the afternoon is closing so the plan is to take a quick look around
park the car then walk - onto a long and narrow cobblestone street
shops galore and a few still open including the danish tiger store
a couple of essentials purchased there and we push on further, deeper
we are very much liking this place - it seems to be well loved as well
a stage is spotted for a classical/opera festival that has just started
rows of seats with a backdrop of the lower town and countryside
we examine a map of the historical centre and aim for the duomo
this takes us through piazzas, past more shops and churches
and another outdoor stage and seating for a film festival
yep - definitely going to need a dedicated day/night here
we reverse our steps back to the car, mount up and head off
onto the autostrade for a faster journey - and with it some rain
not much - and an early evening return home for 2 happy travellers...

giorno 20 - tivoli

saturday and relief - a bit cooler at least at the start of the day
today we have planned a one hour journey for some sight-seeing
stretched to avoid the autostrade and to get in some rural scenery
we're heading south-east for us and directly east of rome to tivoli
sure enough the drive is as enthralling as expected on narrow roads
we gape in wonder at plantations of grapes, olive trees and sunflowers
there are towns we will return to but tivoli has 3 places on our agenda
we spot and grab a car-park on the edge of town and start the adventure
first stop - villa gregoriana - not sure what to expect here as we walk in
down actually with a steady descent on a path enveloped by greenery
we discover we are in a spectacular ravine on the edge of the town
there's a large waterfall off to one side from a man-made tunnel
the result of a large engineering project in the mid 18th century
up until then the powerful aniene river regularly flooded the town
further down we inspect the ruins of a building from the 1st century
a quite surreal feeling in the basement of this 2000 year old structure
we pass through a low tunnel to the valle dell'inferno (valley of hell)
there the flowing water disappears over rocks into a large black hole
all the while we can see the ruins of a temple perched on top of a cliff
the path then leading up to that point and spectacular views all around
apparantly this is one of the most painted landscapes in the world
a wander through the quiet cobblestone streets of tivoli (siesta time)
gelato shops outnumbering all others and so we indulge for lunch
the few restaurants open are doing it tough in the heat of this day
villa d'este is our second stop - a 4 story building facing west
it's an inconspicuous entrance from the street on the top level
corridors take us through rooms adorned with fine paintings
but the main feature are the stunning gardens and their views
more clever engineering of waterways supplying the fountains
we descend staircases and paths to be this garden of gardens
the views west across the plains to rome are simply stunning
and easy to imagine past inhabitants of the villa relaxing outside
the largest fountains and waterfalls are at the end of our wander
we exit in wonder after visiting another of italy's iconic places
but today there is one more - a short drive to hadrian's villa
we park, pay and then walk up a path to the main entrance
passing through the intact ruins of an huge and ancient wall
and so begins a walk in the heat of the day around this site
a once thriving town now in ruins - impressive as they are
hadrian was once the emperor of italy and this was his base
so most buildings are signs of rich and powerful indulgence
ballrooms, bathhouses, theatres and indoor swimming pools
we walk over, touch and peer at some incredible architecture
huge columns, intricate brickwork, marble and fine mosaics
an outdoor pool of green water surrounded by marble statues
priceless stuff i would have thought - and out there in the open
a moment (quite a few actually) to reflect again on time and place
in the heat of the late afternoon we then start our return journey
again passing through the ever-changing italian countryside
driving north-west to our home base on now familiar roads
good to get home and kick back after another fulfilling day...

giorno 19 - torrita tiberina (casa)

we are up at sparrow's farts today and in time for sunrise
from our living room window we have a view over the valley
a blanket of cloud envelopes the nearby town of poggio mirteto
4:30am is obscenely early but not when it's 12:30pm in australia
a few calls to make to solve a few problems then it's into the day
we have decided to have a home day today - tiredness is visiting
and the temperature is once again expected to head to the mid 30s
we take an early morning wander to our favourite bar for pastries
washed down with cafe freddo while dog and people watching
it's coming up to 3 weeks since we arrived at torrita tiberina
so now feeling quite comfortable and almost part of it all
we are recognised and greeted at several shops around town
a language problem of course - their english matches our italian
but we get by on bonjourno, grazie, arrivederci and pointing
today we took our first venture into a shop selling baked goods
the signage out the front making it look like a fast food outlet
but inside a selection of fresh biscuits, cakes, pizzas and pastas
zucchini flower topped pizza and mixed biscuits are purchased
we certainly do not lack for food options in this very small town
the population of 1079 are well served and the prices - so cheap
we wonder how they survive but it's clearly all about lifestyle
provide a service, be part of a community and pay the bills
simple stuff really and the kind of experience that we wanted
the choice made several months ago to live in a small rural town
back home we set up the fan and easily slide into relaxation mode
laptops are on the watchlist and the day spent dozing and grazing
one of our favourite treats is digging into half a small watermelon
spooning then scrapping out the cold and juicy flesh in quick time
we brave the heat of the day late in the afternoon for a wine refill
one of the small shops has a bank of steel wine barrels at one end
help yourself - fill your own container - priced at 2 euro a litre
it may not be premium wine but it certainly suits our palate
and as in this evenings case to accompany our italian dinner
fresh figs wrapped in prosciutto and a gorganzola cheese sauce
followed by fettuccine pasta with roma tomatoes and fresh basil
yum-o - and probably just a bit too much food for one sitting
so on with the headphones and onto the street walking circuit
first heading south alongside the castle and on cobblestones
a few people sitting outside and waves, nods, smiles exchanged
down and around the bottom corner to come back up the other side
looking down and out at the tiber river snaking through the valley
cutting through the town's lower car-park and the road out of town
then up a hidden path for a testing climb up to to the highest housing
there's a game of soccer happening in the miniature pitch set up there
a high fence surrounds the synthetic pitch and 2 teams are lining up
a lot of spectators too so possibly some kind of local competition
as they kick off there are serious skills and attitudes on display
i park myself and enjoy being part of the friday night action
feeling very embedded in life here as i then wander home
a large bush overflowing with flowers too much to resist
return to home base and a needed early night - happy...

giorno 18 - orvieto

10 years ago i paid a visit to orvieto - and was totally impressed
the town atop a huge array of caves and tunnels on top of a hill
today we need an outing and found orvieto is in striking distance
about an hour on the autostrade and both keen to re-visit so let's go
an early mistake though as we miss a turnoff and then pay the price
our digital navigator then has us very much experiencing rural roads
down to 1 lane, twisting and turning on at times a very rough surface
good fun actually and some classic scenes of the italian countryside
however it's good to get onto the autostrade and play the racing game
we turnoff as directed and take the climb up the road to orvieto itself
a surprisingly empty carpark though the hot afternoon may be a factor
a walk up through the main street (car-free) and as expected very quiet
we spot the duomo and are soon standing in front of this unique church
it is huge and it's bold striped structure and colourful frontage is striking
good timing for us as an english-speaking guide is about to lead a tour
a bunch of us are then lead down into a small cavern underneath the town
our guide provides an enthralling explanation of the history of the caves
there are more caves than buildings and all dug by hand in search of water
some large enough to host businesses e.g. olive pressing as we are shown
we work our way deeper and examine a deep well - a real heartstopper
it's a constant 14-15 degrees where we are so a contrast to the 35 outside
one hour is enough - claustrophobic? maybe but good to get into the sun
we then take a wander around the main shopping streets of the town
most shops are still closed (siesta or just a late start) but no problem
for we agree - the whole place feels unauthentic and tourist oriented
totally unlike some of the other more genuine towns we have visited
10 years ago the place seemed vibrant - now - it feels kind of tired
perhaps we are being unfairly critical but nonetheless we soon leave
probably not on the agenda for a future return visit - there's others
as we spot on the drive back to home base - small hilltop towns
it's a race down the autostrade and an easy cross-country to home
the gnocchi and gorganzola purchased at orvieta is tonight's meal
delicious - and perfectly balanced with a visit to our local bar
where we teach the lady owner how to make coffee affogato
eaten as we are sitting outside in the balmy nighttime air...

giorno 17 - rome parte 3

yes well this was supposed to be a rest day after naples
but - the allure of rome is too much to ignore and in we go
difference being this time it is evening and we will drive it
ignoring the warnings about roman drivers, streets and parking
it can't be that bad at night - right? - but we're feeling confident
we've got this driving thing down - one drives, the other navigates
google maps is an amazing tool and we apply some local knowledge
basically there are no rules except stay your course and stay focused
with that all other drivers are incredibly forgiving, tolerant and polite
the complication of right hand drive in a left-hand drive car no issue
it takes us just 45 enjoyable minutes from home to the centre of rome
park the vehicle and then take a pleasant stroll towards the heart of it
immediate impressions are that we have definitely avoided the crowds
we cross the tiber river and head directly to our target of piazza navona
upon entering it is clear we are in a special place - described as 'elegant'
the people are milling, the buskers are performing, the artists are selling
and most impressively the fountains are flowing - 3 huge marble fixtures
we go into low gear and just wander fairly aimlessly and soak it all up
stomachs are a-rumbling though so now it's a case of pick a restaurant
there's a number of them along one full length of the piazza - choose!
we succumb to the first beckoning waiter at the central ristorante tucci
the suspicion is that the food will be sub-par and the prices the opposite
but the setting dominates as we take a beer, place an order and enjoy
not fussed about the lady on guitar playing american country tunes
nor the american family on the neighbouring table approving her
and so hard to resist making a comment bemoaning the music here
our meals arrive as the lady moves on and an accordian player arrives
grace jones is covered - i've seen that face before - delightful tune
the food - no need for concern - mushroom risotto and gnocchi
we agree both dishes are superb and well beyond expectations
it's a 50 euro meal including entree and beers so not cheap but...
dusk is now upon us so we check the map and go walkabout
we spot castel sant'angelo across the river and are drawn to it
not sure about the 3 piece rock band in front (floyd/zeppelin)
but the illuminated statues and frontage are a sight to behold
eyes left and we can see st peter's basilica in the distance
and equally we are drawn to that on this beautiful evening
as we get close a yellow ferrari draws level - ironic really
2 famous italian icons now in view and in camera frame
we get right into st peter's square and soak up the ambience
there's quite a few people also taking it in and a few police
quite a treat really and we agree rome by night is magical
and on our easy trip home we agree to do it all again...

giorno 16 - gaeta

arrivederci napoli - today we pack up and drive out of portici
today's plan was to drive back to sorrento and ferry it to capri
but the feeling is we will return for another visit and do it then
instead today we will take the scenic route back to our lazio base
a longer journey than the 2-3 hours to get here via the autostrade
out with google maps - find a town on the west coast - point - shoot
formia is the target and should take a couple of hours cross country
we get past naples city quickly on their efficient roading system
first impression of rural campania is that it is flat, dry and busy
various factories are randomly placed as are some small towns
there's a very real feeling of authenticity as we observe life here
particularly in the flat, unadorned, large town of cancello ed arnone
a sharp contrast to the tourist-oriented places of the last few days
but with that an appreciation of being a brief part of real life here
a fleeting visit as we find ourselves heading north next to the coast
it seems like the coastal strip is holiday-oriented - but not glitzy
possibly the place where the more average italian is summer bound
it's all quite rundown with many vacant and delapidated buildings
we've seen this in other parts of italy - a sign of economic hardship?
all very interesting though especially seeing towns high up on hills
any one of them would be worth a visit but we still have a long drive
as we cruise into formia we spot a town on a peninsula further north
formia looks ok but gaeta looks to be some kind of fortress town
so on we go and upon arrival we park the car and walk...and walk
we are in another special place - gaeta is in a beautiful location
the northern part of a large bay with mountains to the south
a marina is chocked full of large and modern looking boats
there are a couple of large yachts racing out on the water
and a mini-cruise ship is docked with a gangplank down
the buildings - wow - old but all in immaculate condition
seems we have stumbled on some kind of rich man's riviera
it's early afternoon and deserted - the many food outlets closed
the place probably buzzes at night and the looming holiday season
good for us now though as we then head up towards a cathedral
as we approach we find it is no longer used with a security fence
and an immediate thought - ah the money these days is in toys
maybe the purchase and upkeep of boats diverted from culture
shame as this cathedral with it's large welcoming statue is prime
it's pastel colours a beautiful contrast against the bright blue sky
we walk down and back along the foreshore to our waiting car
a longish drive to hit the ring-road around rome then north
quite a relief to get to our current home in torrita tiberina
it's been a totally fulfilling 4 days in the trip to napoli...

giorni 15 - costiera amalfitana

day 3 of the naples side-trip and today's plan full of promise
the amalfi coast road - 50 kilometres of awe-inspiring views
we head south from naples and drive the fast route to salerno
a coffee stop there and shortly after 8am we then head west
we are then hugging the coast on a narrow and winding road
there's a constant stream of cars, buses, scooters and cyclists
the odd pedestrian also - so on every corner caution is required
pretty easy to get into the groove of it on this most special road
before long we spot a turnoff, descend, park and walk to a beach
very picturesque - laid out with matching deckchairs and umbrellas
the water is clear as and already families are settling in for the day
we enter a restaurant and indulge in an iced cream coffee on the deck
potted flowers surround so adding to the beautiful colours of this scene
no dallying though - we're back in the car and work our way westwards
there's very little opportunity to stop on the road but we take any chance
usually up high over the water and so the outlook is simply glorious
secluded beaches, boats, clear blue water and sky, and small towns
we spot a sign for a town further up the steep hill - ravello - let's go
off the main road it's a bit quieter but with it more curves and gradient
our destination is a cluster of buildings perched cliff side up above us
then cruising into ravello it opens up into a typical small italian town
park the car and a walk into town square and it's a sight to behold
a beautiful basilica fronting a large square hosting many cafes
apparently this town is tourist central and it's easy to see why
we purchase tickets for entrance to the gardens of villa rufolo
a quiet disjointed but entrancing set of buildings and gardens
the most southern point contains a purpose built amphitheatre
the large stage perched with the backdrop of the mediterranean
seems there was a classical concert on last night - musical mana
in a nearby tunnel a series of posters inform of the ravello festival
an annual event of classical and jazz music currently on - tempting
we pause and marvel at a ceramic shop - a large circular table tempts
shipping included for free to nz - price - yes well - to be considered
driving back down and then on to the main town of amalfi itself
lunch at a waterside cafe watching people and buses come and go
a walk then into the thronging town square and up to the basilica
pay the euros down and inspect the museum, crypt and cathedral
more of the same - a huge space of outstanding design and decor
some quiet time then back into the crowds and time for a swim
we find a quiet spot slightly out of town and take the plunge
into the cool, clear water that refreshes and relaxes - delicious
pushing on and a roadside stop at grotta dello smerlado entices
down a lift we go and then into a cave and onto a small rowboat
our personal guide in fine comedic form rows us around the cave
sunlight in an underwater tunnel providing the emerald glow
beautiful - sadly no swimming allowed in this popular place
back in the car and more fun driving on this now busy road
we come up behind a large bus competing for road space
another bus coming towards it means the road is jammed
it seems a pass cannot occur but incredulously it does
we watch in amazement as the gap is down to millimetres  
next stop - postino - car parked and a street descends down
this pedestrian mall is very much targeting the richer tourist
classy shops and an overhead vine makes it all very pleasant
we extend ourselves to a gelato and caffe freddo for our stay
the drive out offering one last vista of the glorious amalfi coast
and then a relatively short valley drive to the town of sorrento
we find a car-park and again hit the streets in the town centre
looking good - very tidy and lots to see but we need water
a walk down to the area named porte and we get our wish
the swim is had in the tepid water as the sun is sinking
a fisherman's co-op restaurant provides our evening meal
blissful - sitting outside as the sun slips under the horizon...

giorno 14 - pompeii

we are into day 2 of our 3 day excursion to naples and surrounds
yesterday - culture and today - nature - in all it's power and glory
starting with the glory we are up early and driving up mt vesuvius
this active volcano casts an ominous presence over all of naples
even musically with favourite italian group vesovo named after it
we take a long steady climb on a narrow sealed road towards the top
it's tourism mecca but fortunately our early sunday start is rewarded
not much traffic and early in queue for the taxi-bus to start of the hike
a few tourist buses already there so the path up is already being beaten
loose gravel and small rocks are underfoot on a clear path so quite easy
at the peak we go past the drinks and souvenir shop and take a first view
we are peering into the crater - it is deep, wide, calm (phew) and imposing
the views so high up back out to naples and beyond equally impressive
we are actually above the line of a few puffy clouds hanging around
the track then continues half-way around the crater to another shop
drinks and a few rock souvenirs are bought and photos are snapped
a moment's reflection on the time and place - this is quite unique
we then reverse our steps, our shuttle bus and our own drive down
time now to view the power of nature at work - the town of pompeii
we arrive an hour or so before afternoon opening so lunch is taken
pizza (why not) and a peroni beer (of course) and we then wander
first around the relatively modern town and large and open basilica
some quiet time in the cool there then we walk into the ancient town
in 79 ad the town was totally buried by ash from an erupting vesuvius
some bodies recovered centuries later in a macabre display at the entrance
which puts things into perspective as we then enter the old town proper
we pass by the amphitheatre that is closed as a concert is being prepared
david gilmour due to make an appearance and no doubt mixing in pink floyd
elton john due in a week or 2 later so this venue is understandably appealing
shame we can't get inside today but nevermind - there's plenty more to see
we are carrying a guide book that suggests a short-ish route of 2-3 hours
the crowds are in force today as we have struck first-sunday-free-entrance
hot too - but it all moves quite well as we move in and out of buildings
large free-standing homes, streets of smaller houses, restaurants, etc
there's been a huge effort by teams of archaeologists on this huge site
it's easy to imagine the lifestyle of the inhabitants over 2000 years ago
all quite indulgent it seems with public baths, theatres, etc recovered
the hours go by quickly and we only cover a fraction of the town
certainly a place to return to but for today we are hot and tired
a drive back to digs for a rest and cleanup and then - naples
we decide to spend some time in the higher suburbs of the city
driving into the city gives us more options with google maps
though tonight it has trouble delivering us to the palace
we park near a basilica and take a wander around the area
all quite run-down really - not a tourist area so neglected
we give up trying to find food and drive back to portici
not much choice at this late hour on a sunday evening
but a bar to the rescue - then home and sleep - what a day...

giorno 13 - napoli

a planned early start stealthily subdued by needed sleep
seems a week of mid-night work shifts has caught us up
so at 9am we are in the c1 and heading for the autostrade
talk of a possible scenic route to naples is also scuppered
but what fun on the racetrack with 3 adjacent lanes of traffic
hard right - don't bother me - i'm in no mood or vehicle to race
middle lane - i'll do it by the book and stick to a constant speed
hard left - get out of my way - my vehicle is up for my aggression
jumping into hard left shortens the journey but raises the anxiety
a fast-passing couple of hours sees us move from rome to naples
our choice of accommodation is a southern coastal town of portici
we leave the car there and catch the suburban train back into naples
first impressions - well - we're commuting it on a neglected system
emerging at garibaldi central and much the same - it's a working city
hot too as we trudge past market stalls and hawkers as we orientate
we're spinning a bit so an iced coffee and map consultation is taken
our choice of stop is adjacent to centro antico - the historical centre
good-o - we have 4 places selected for a visit and all now walkable
though the ancient castle gates we pass and now the jaw is dropping
there's a perceptible change in our surroundings as we gape around
endless blocks of 6 story buildings separated by very narrow lanes
pedestrians, a few scooters and the odd very small car competing
and the shops - small, specific and plentiful - mostly food outlets
we sense that what we are amongst has changed little in centuries
naples is the home of pizza and we find a shop claiming invention
noted for a later possible visit then the first planned visit - under
we are lead down into some archaeological digs beneath the city
an ancient town from the centuries b c has been found and restored
fascinating really and a stark contrast to the busy city directly above
back there we then wander to our second target - sansevero chapel
totally nondescript on the street but it's small interior is bewildering
significantly the awe-inspiring prone marble statue of the veiled jesus
our audioguide providing an essential explanation of this stunning piece
it's not alone though with the chapel's other contents equally impressive
back outside and we find and enter into a number of maggiores in the area
all huge, unique and spell-binding examples of humanity at it's very best
we end our time in this unesco listed area with a meal at an outdoor cafe
then head off to the bustling street of via toledo - shops and pedestrians
it is buzzing this late saturday afternoon and so people-watching rules
we cross the large and central piazza del plebiscito and head to the water
it's all very relaxed on the boardwalk as we sit with cocktails in hand
gaze across at vesuvious and contemplate the fine day's adventuring
a taxi to rail central and a return journey home with 4 friendly locals
somehow we sparked some friendly debate on the location of n z
a tiring walk back to our digs for these 2 totally fulfilled beings...